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Hi all. About 6 months ago i joined the skyline family, and I'm loving it, however my auto trans has started behaving a bit weird of late. I had it serviced a couple of weeks ago to see if that helped, or perhaps get a better idea of whats causing it, but it was inconclusive. So I thought I would post my symptoms here and hope someone with experience in re4r01a transmissions might be able to shed some light on the issue.

Basically this is how it behaves

I start it cold, and it drives normally for the first kilometer, then it will slip out of 4th (OD) and stay in 3rd. The torque converter will then refuse to lock.

If I now stop, and start from first, the shift to second is hard like a shift kit, and it will then hold second until I either engage the snow function, or rev up and back off.

Now if I drive around for about 10 mins it will begin trying to lock the torque converter when I go above 70k, only a little at first, but locking and unlocking more and more as the temp rises.

After about 15 mins it has warmed up and the torque converter behaves normally and it will now shift into 4th (OD) again, and will operate flawlessly until it is left to cool down.

I have run the ecu and trans diagnostics in my garage, and at the trans shop, with a clean outcome on every occasion, and this made the guy at the shop convinced it was a mechanical issue, or possibly the "dropping relay/resistor" which we were unable to locate on my r33. It does feel like the torque converter is at fault, but I'm concerned there may be more to it, or that its possibly related to the ageing battery in my alarm/immobilizer.

If anyone has had similar issues and were able to resolve it, I'd love to hear about it.

Cheers, Josh.

Was there much friction material or other gunk in the sump/ filter when you removed it. It does sound like a mechanical issue, possibly a sticky valve or sticky solenoid which works better once the oil is warm and has thinned a tiny bit

The sump was clean, a few filings on the magnet, but not an unusual amount for 150,000k. The filter had a few white metal flakes in one corner.

Yea the idea of something sticking or being slightly blocked seems to make sense, since it goes away when its warm. But because it works fine for the first kilometer when fully cold, and then starts to misbehave makes me question that reasoning. Perhaps a seal that functions when the fluid is cold and slightly more viscous, then fails when the fluid thins, and then starts to work again when the seal itself gets warm or, the fluid gets to temp?

If a seal was gone inside the transmission then the unit as a whole wouldnt operate how you are describing. It would be worse and possibly wouldnt drive properly at all

I used to have an auto r33 and had this exact same problem!! I ended up getting new shift solenoids and got the transmission rebuilt and still it wouldn't shift properly. I'm glad I've got a manual now!

The dropping resistor is located behind the LH headlight, next to the airbox.

It's silver and about 3" long.

If it's unpluged/failed it can make the shifts hard, coast on overrun and not engage overdrive.

Some people (yank maxima owners)have tried this as a poorman's shift kit.

Check that it is connected, if it is swap it with a known good one.

Edited by enilyks33r
  • 7 months later...

Hi Guys

Firstly, sorry for resurrecting an old thread, but this is the same fault that I have with in my car.

I've taken it to an auto box specialist here in Scotland and we believe we've traced the fault to the fluid temperature sensor in the tranny.

I've also done a bit of research into this transmission, and it appears to be a common fault.

The transmission in the R33 is a 4 speed Jatco RE4R01A box, which is used in several models of Nissans, like the Patrol and the NA 300ZX, it is also fitted to models of Infinity and Mazda.

The problem with fixing the fault is the lack of knowledge regarding this gearbox over here, as it's not common in UK spec cars. So I'm struggling to find a new replacement part. Nissan UK have quoted me £1,300 plus tax for a replacement valve body, which they say contains the part I need, whereas a transmission parts supplier says that he is able to obtain a transmission wiring loom from an Infinity for £200, and this contains the part I need.

Confused...I amblink.gif????????????

So I've decided to bite the bullet and phone MV Automatics (I believe you guys highly recommend them), maybe the can give me the right information.

I hope some of this information was helpful and you have better luck sorting out the fault in your car.

Cheersthumbsup.gif

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