Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I heard it (i think)...

and thought to myself, thats an interesting sound...

Was at the servo out the front getting refreshed (coke & choc bar) at the time... Good timing i guess...

Yep that would have been it. We were all down there!

  • Replies 743
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey mate, nice build, been following it since the beginning.

where did you buy the small battery from and what is the CCA ratings?

cheers

pm Trent from mercury motorsport. Thats one of the parts I wasn't coordinating.

Will require jump starting to preserve battery life though so not for everyone.

It is only 1.8kg though!!

I'm guessing there is no chance we can come check this car out on Sunday hey Mark? I'm flying up to QLD Sat night (home Sunday night) but would loved to have checked it out.

(Am flying up just to have a look at another 35 actually)

Can you take a vid of the Beast on your dyno?

Im sure all who've seen this thread would LOVE to see/hear it spinning up......

450awkw @18psi is a nice result for run-in tune. What awkw figures at what boost are you hoping for?

I want a solid 600awkw 28-30psi , god only knows how I'll cope getting that down on the track in any sensible fashion

to put that in perspective a stock R35 puts out about 270awkw on the mercury dyno dynamics

not sure what it should end up with in dyno queen mode?

600awkw is going to be tricky, you'll most likey increase the speed at which the earth rotates, depending what direction your driving of course. haha. Looking forward to seeing the final dyno result, when do you expect to have that done?

What a great result, we just finished run-in tune, final result was 500.2kw at wheels on 21psi. Now it is back on the hoist finishing installation of the carbon dash, mounting the rear diffuser and getting ready for the track shakedown.

I did get video of the dyno, so I am sure Mark will post up the video shortly.

The entire team at Mercury Motorsport are extremely happy and although exhausted from all the OT, this has spurred us on to continue with our efforts in getting ready for the WTAC.

overtime? whats that?

my toohey's extra dry supply cant keep up with all the overtime lol

seriously though Luke, Gordon and John have all been putting in immense hours to get this car finished. their work ethic and comittment is second to none

overtime? whats that?

my toohey's extra dry supply cant keep up with all the overtime lol

seriously though Luke, Gordon and John have all been putting in immense hours to get this car finished. their work ethic and comittment is second to none

It's shown in the pictures, it's amazing how quickly this has progressed and the effort/quality which the boys have put into it. Can't wait to see this thing in action

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you haven't bought the ECU yet, I would strongly consider buying a modern ECU. Yes it is very easy to setup and tune, however it is lacking many of the features of a modern ECU. The pro plug in is something like 10 or 12 years old now? Can't remember exactly but it is very dated now. In that time the Elite was released and now we have the Nexus platform.  I would strongly consider not buying the ECU that is 3 generations old now (especially as it isn't a cheap ECU!). 
    • Im happy for it as long as it means reanult gets the boot 
    • Sorry I should have been more clear with the previous post.  The block is a sanding block - picture something like this https://motorguard.com/product/motor-guard-bgr161-bgr16-1-rigid-psa-sanding-block-2-5-8-x-16/ The guide coat is the paint It's two separate things I was talking about, there is no "block guide coat". 
    • Maybe more accurately, you aren't just dulling the existing paint, you are giving the new paint something to 'grab on to'. By sanding the existing paint, you're creating a bunch of pores for the new paint to hook on to.  You can lay new paint over existing paint without sanding it, might last a year or two then sad times. The paint will peal/flake off in huge chunks. By sanding it, the new paint is able to hang onto it and won't flake off.  Depends on the primer you are using. When you buy your paint, as the paint supplier what grit of sand paper to use before you lay down the primer.  Use whatever you like as a guide coat. Pick a colour that really stands out in contrast to the paint. So say your sanding/painting a currently white car, using a black guide coat would work well. You very lightly lay the black guide coat down, then as you sand the car with the large block, all the high spots and low spots will stand out as the black paint is sanded off (or isn't sanded off).  When you buy your paint, hit up your supplier for recommendations for what paint to use for a guide coat if you're unsure what would work well with your setup. 
    • Cheers thanks for the help mate I’ll see how we go with that one 
×
×
  • Create New...