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after the fuel cap/boot cable? price delivered to melbourne vic?

cheers

Plastic fuel cap I have.

Are u referring to the boot release cable which runs from the drivers seat?

R32 GTR Centre Instrument Console Black Surround - the piece that surrounds the 3 x gauges, aircon, radio, gearshift.

Have, not have? Condition, photo, price?

Rgds ... Les

R32 GTR Centre Instrument Console Black Surround - the piece that surrounds the 3 x gauges, aircon, radio, gearshift.

Have, not have? Condition, photo, price?

Rgds ... Les

Sorry sold that last week with the dash, hard to get as well

Hey Marko, do you have the drivers review mirror rubber seal? Mine makes a slight whistle which is annoying.

Not sure what u are referring to mate, can u get a pic?

This is what is left – still a lot to go (ive added 1 new item at the end of the list)!

I have more items to sell which I’ll add over the next few days...in the interim, please make offers as I will consider this!

1. gearbox - $750

2. front door trims - $200

3. rear door trims - $170

5. dash cluster with 180km/h speedo (showing 73000km) - $150

6. doors (includes tinted glass & power window mechanisms) - $320

7. front windscreen (with antenna) - $150

8. rear tail lights - $160

12. factory afm - $50

13. blitz icolor dual solenoid dsbc boost controller (with user manual) - $600

14. attesa 4wd pump - $350

15. input shaft for transfer case/4wd - $50

16. work wheel nuts - $120

17. hicas pump - $120

18. ohlins suspension, very nice ride & not too hard/bumpy like most coilovers - $400

20. speedo cable which has done 2000km - $70

21. dash clock - $40

22. rear subframe 'pineapples' to lock in blown out bushes & stiffen rear end - $70

23. spare wheel - $50

24. dash vent (passenger side) - $50

26. left cv with knuckle assembly - $150

27. right cv with knuckle assembly - $150

28. torque split controller 'extreme tsc' - $100

29. drivers side window/mirror control - $80

30. sun visors - $30

31. complete boot trim - $160

35. instrument panel surround (does not have headlight switch & wiper button) - $40

36. power steering line - $40

37. caster (radius) rods (bushes are good) - $80

38. radiator overflow bottle - $30

39. passenger & drivers side door sill garnish - $80

40. door seal finish - $30

42. factory side skirts (black) - $180

44. front subframe - $60

46. bootlid rubber seal (no tears) - $30

47. power steering reservoir - $20

48. earls braided brake lines (front and rear) - $120

49. factory blow off valves complete with plumbing - $130

50. gtr calipers front & rear, epoxy coated high temp red with a painted high temp stencil 'nismo' - $350

51. 'race brakes' race compound pads front & rear - $180

52. passenger side window switch - $40

52. genuine black gtr bootlid badge - $70

53. genuine bonnet badge - $30

54. full set of front & rear gtr seat belts in good condition - $100

Hey mate just wondering if i can get some photos of the torque split controller. Does it have the ablity to switch between 4wd and 2 at all?

Cheers matt

Edited by 32vspec2gtr

Hey mate just wondering if i can get some photos of the torque split controller. Does it have the ablity to switch between 4wd and 2 at all?

Cheers matt

Hey mate just wondering if you have the speedo cable at all. Cheers matt

speedo cable has done 2000km (like new) - pic attached ($70)

torque split controller also only done 2000km - pic attached. u can run 2wd & 4wd. in 4wd mode u can adjust the power to the front wheels from 1 to 10. position 1 is standard & position 10 is 50/50 split from front to rear ($100)

post-8728-0-73238100-1303096135_thumb.jpg

post-8728-0-68646800-1303096273_thumb.jpg

Edited by Marko R1

Hey mate just wondering if i can get some photos of the torque split controller. Does it have the ablity to switch between 4wd and 2 at all?

Cheers matt

pm sent matt!

OS Giken triple plate clutch 'R3C' with billet clutch cover which has done 2000km. it includes everything you need to bolt straight into your car (i.e. flywheel, clutch disks, center plates, pressure plate, clutch cover bolts, clutch cover, release bearing & associated bolts).

In case you are wondering what 'R3C' stands for...

R - means its 'billet'

3 - means its a triple plate

C - means it hss the largest diameter plates @ 215mm

You can also refer to this link: http://www.osgiken.net/products/racingmultiplate.html

I originally bought this from otomoto for $3000 as per this link: http://www.otomoto.com.au/osgiken/r3c_tri_plate.htm

Selling for $1800 ono :)

post-8728-0-73293800-1303217135_thumb.jpg

post-8728-0-09006400-1303217141_thumb.jpg

post-8728-0-74179000-1303217145_thumb.jpg

post-8728-0-02085000-1303217151_thumb.jpg

For all interstate buyers - PLEASE NOTE:

I have very competitive door to door courier pricing & to give you an idea on this, to post the steering rack interstate (which is about 1.5m in length & about 10kg) comes to only $15 :)

I can pretty much cover all freight costs on most of these parts advertised in this thread as an incentive :)

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    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
    • As well as being risky WRT tipping off anyway. Yeah, I wouldn't expect it to move. Just measure from the rear one to the front one on the good side, then measure that same length on the wrecked side. You will find the notches in the pinchweld, and the jacking pad. Just spray a spot of marker paint or something there.
    • but any other area than the bulge you are talking about will just cave in then? The front driver side is pretty bent so I don't know if that will work the way it is now. I can still kinda make out where that bulge is/was but it looks like the position of it also changed due to all the mistreatment? Hard to tell
    • Absolutely. Look very closely at the photo (of yours) that I took my second snip of. See how the sill is thicker material right behind the pinchweld, where the two notches are? That is the factory reinforced area for lifting. That pad is supposed to carry the weight. The factory jack (go look at it, and how it interfaces with the car at the pinchweld) shows you exactly how the load is carried from the car to the jack to the ground.
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