Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just bought BC BR Racing coilovers.... but something doesn't look right. Hopefully it's just my ignorance but there's no bracket on the side? Like in the picture on the website?

http://img688.images...us/i/bcbrn.jpg/

This picture + attached one etc.

They're for my r33 GTS-T...

post-64370-0-57622300-1302252357_thumb.jpg

Edited by RB25PWR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360244-whats-wrong-with-this-picture/
Share on other sites

On the box it says 96-98 GTS (obviously meaning models between 96-98); but do the GTS's have different suspension to the GTST's?

The top of the front spring also looks identical to the rear one ... nothing there apart from the damper setting... I'm confused :/

edit: I just noticed the sprint rates are 10/8 also, instead of the 8/6

Edited by RB25PWR

the coilovers in the picture are not for r33. they are probably just the generic image they use.

r33 coilovers will have eyelet at the bottom for mounting, not a bracket. they also only have 2 bolts at the top, not 3.

the camber adjustment in the pic above doesnt apply to r33 either. the fronts will look like the rears. round, with 2 bolts, and damper adjust in the centre.

edit: below is the general shape and type that suits r33. of course yours are a different model, etc. but will still look similar in style.

10052009575.jpg

Edited by Munkyb0y

yeah the pic you are using is an incorrect reference.

What you have got is the right coilovers. UNless the spring rate of 10/8 is for the ones you ahve as opposed to the pic. 10/8 is going to be pretty damn hard. 8/6 is the way to go unless you are tracking it.

Iv got them for my R33 GTST n are the same ones as your pic (and iv got the 8/6)

Goodbit of kit for the street. N esp for the money...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...