Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok heres the back story, engine has been out of the car for a month. The car was running before that but it wasnt going anywhere because the clutch had gone. So basically hasnt ran much at all in 2 months. Was running perfect before.

I have replaced all the fluids, brand new clutch, flywheel, metal intake pipe, spark plugs, oil filter, water pump, tensioner bearing, timing belt, etc.

Now my first problem was the car was cranking but not firing, i fount out this was to do with the cas bracket breaking but now have a new one. Cas seems to be aligned properly, car starts but is very rough. So i managed to get a timing light on there and see that the timing lines do line up.

1. So eventually after messing around a bit we have worked out that cylinder 1( well the one closest to the front of the car) isnt firing. The weird thing is that the the spark plug and coil pack are working as we tryed them on different cylinders and they worked fine. Injector is ticking and i assume that means its working. I took the spark plug out to check for fuel straight after it had been running but it was dry, should it be wet? Not really sure how else to diagnose whats wrong with it.

2. Second problem is that when you rev the car in neutral it revs fine, the second you put the gear stick in gear even with the clutch still in and rev it there is a horrible sound coming from the engine. Easiest way to describe it would be almost like lifter noise or the engine sounds like a diesel truck.

3. Third thing isnt really a problem, im assuming its related to the engine not firing properly. The boost gauge seems to be reading about -10psi at idle and im pretty sure the car used to be at -20psi at idle. Could this suggest a boost or vacume leak?

4. My ecu is an z32 computer with nistune, so im assuming that it cant be used to check error codes. Would i be right in assuming this?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360267-cylinder-1-wont-fire/
Share on other sites

do the dots on the cam gears line up wit the marks on the backing plate and the first line on the balancer(orange i think) line up with its corresponding mark on the cover?

Have you tried the cas in different positions one tooth at a time?

Also as said in the last thread your cas is probably faked....try a next one

do the dots on the cam gears line up wit the marks on the backing plate and the first line on the balancer(orange i think) line up with its corresponding mark on the cover?

Have you tried the cas in different positions one tooth at a time?

Also as said in the last thread your cas is probably faked....try a next one

Timing belt lined up perfectly with cams and balancer all lining up in the correct positions.

It seems the cas will still only fully go in in one position. And it wont start in any other position so its definitley alligned correctly.

Im going to test to see if it is cas as soon as possible. But i dont think it would be just because it seems to be working as per normal, besides the fact that cylinder 1 wont fire.

Have u tested the injector with a noid light.

No, i will do that today but it seems to be ticking which indicates its working .

If you were able to set timing, then #1 coilpack IS firing. And you said it works fine in other cylinders.

Your problem could be a gummed up injector in #1. It might be wise to get them all cleaned anyway.

I had this issue for agers. turned to be a bad injectors, also cyc 1. The faulty injector seems to be shooting fuel like a tab instead of spraying it. Mine were high flowed injectors. throw them out, replaced them with a brand new set and every thing worked, run heaps smoother and consumed lot less fuel.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • IMG_8641.mov     She doesn’t sound the best but starts with out using any gas now. I just ran some injector cleaner through her. started roughly the first time after adding it but gave it the beans slowly upto 4k, Must have cleaned a few cobwebs out. another step in the right direction for the sub
    • Sadly I can confirm if you are actually seeking to drift, you will quite easily spin up one wheel. Even if you're going in a straight line. I am not entirely sure of the metrics/terminology here but there's only a certain amount that the helical will actually spin both wheels. I've seen it on video with my own car where two lines of smoke switch over to just one after you really get in to it. Unlike with a clutch diff where you can keep your foot planted until the car regains grip, in my experience with the helical you want to be utilizing traction control allowing LIMITED slip or lifting (partially) when you start to spin up both tyres with a Nissan helical. Which makes them pretty sub optimal for drifting duty. That said... this is probably a helical on numbers alone. Just put the Kazz in
    • Let's just fix the problem by f**king the rest of the gearbox.
    • Unlikely, as per Greg's post. This is not helical diff behaviour unless one wheel is up off the ground. Shimming what? You don't "shim" a mechanical LSD. Probably not in the sense that you have heard of people "shimming" a diff. And the process that Nissan f**kwits call "shimming" a diff involves super-preloading a VLSD cartridge against the side of the diff to create a friction/wear point (in a place that it wasn't supposed to have one) to make the sloppy, useless, viscous diff into a hybrid viscous/mech abortion. In case it isn't clear, I consider the process to be stupid. Nike.
    • How much does the shifter move when the car is in gear with the engine off? If it is more than about 1cm you need to replace your shifter bush. Your shifts will just get crunchier, not faster, with a short shifter unless you also rebuild the whole box
×
×
  • Create New...