Jump to content
SAU Community

Fully Built 1000Hp Rb26!

scr33m
 Share

Recommended Posts

dirty thimble Enthusiast

dirty thimble

Posted
Posted

rb26zed, on 03 June 2011 - 11:40 PM, said:

Sorry, I'm not interested in buying your engine, but I am curious as to how someone spends the time, effort and of course money to build a $22000, 1000hp engine, drives it 1500km then suddenly needs to sell it at a huge loss.

the guy i bought it off of got it built for his street gtr and decided to take it out to put it into another gtr for drag racing but decided he wanted an rb26/30 instead.

Still doesn't answer why you are selling it though after only just purchasing it.

hypo33 Contributor

hypo33

Posted
Posted

i dunno what fuss is about,, wish i had a spare 10k i would snap it up right away,, he does not need to give a reason for sale as u could just put it on a engine dyno before purchase if u are serious about buying this bargin and are skeptical about the sale. GL with your sale mate,, surprised its not sold,,, bloody tight arses.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

8500....? ill give u 9 grand if u engine dyno it and prove its a healthy new motor capable of 1000hp...

pm me when your ready

That is a little hard for him to do. The motor was built by a reputable group(matouks, he is quite famous for his RB's). I'm sure if you call them up and ask about the motor they can help you out. I don't think scr33m has the turbo and other gear needed to demonstrate the 1000hp. Just because he bought the motor does not mean he has the turbo and other gear for it.

32rrr Collaborator

32rrr

Posted
Posted

That is a little hard for him to do. The motor was built by a reputable group(matouks, he is quite famous for his RB's). I'm sure if you call them up and ask about the motor they can help you out. I don't think scr33m has the turbo and other gear needed to demonstrate the 1000hp. Just because he bought the motor does not mean he has the turbo and other gear for it.

Just because a workshop built A 1000hp engine it doesnt mean that this is the one, the only way to proved this thing has all the fruit is to pull it down and have pictures of ALL the parts that are in it, for the sake of being able to proved everything is there you dont even need to replace anything except the head gasket.

Showing the engine sitting on a pallet like that means nothing to me or anyone who is actually looking to buy something like this to save themselves some money

As far as i'm concerned with seeing the picture thats been supplied of that motor all it has is cam gears, ati balancer and a piss weak single plate clutch sitting next to it.

Biggest sus thing for me is the bog stock turbo's sitting right next to it on the floor like they've just been pulled off.

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted

Just because a workshop built A 1000hp engine it doesnt mean that this is the one, the only way to proved this thing has all the fruit is to pull it down and have pictures of ALL the parts that are in it, for the sake of being able to proved everything is there you dont even need to replace anything except the head gasket.

Showing the engine sitting on a pallet like that means nothing to me or anyone who is actually looking to buy something like this to save themselves some money

As far as i'm concerned with seeing the picture thats been supplied of that motor all it has is cam gears, ati balancer and a piss weak single plate clutch sitting next to it.

Biggest sus thing for me is the bog stock turbo's sitting right next to it on the floor like they've just been pulled off.

I never said it was or wasn't I was just saying that you could call up the builder of the motor, inquire about when the motor was built, who it was built for, the parts used and what ever you need to ask. Most reputable builders are true and honest because they dedicate them selves to the products they build.

And my argument was not about not pulling apart the motor. Someone on previous pages asked him to chuck it on an engine dyno. I know the turbos sitting near the engine don't make it look too great but you can't expect the guy to have all the gear to get it thrown on a dyno to attempt to prove power. I was not arguing against pulling the motor apart for photos of piston tops, studs and looking into the head for head work, but more so the seller having the parts to obtain a engine dyno displaying the power output.

Its like when you go to inspect a car to buy. The seller can give you all the words in the world saying he has forged pistons, aftermarket rods, new bearings and what not and be asking just an average price. He can say he bought the car from bla bla person with the mods done and have no receipts. You can't ask the guy to strip his motor down just to show you it has the parts before you buy it. I know the situation is different but its the same thing. My brother has bought two fully built 13B motors. One had paper work, the other had nothing. Both motors were shown on a pallet. Both were built by reputable builders and sold on forums just like this(aus rotor). He contacted the engine builder to attempt to verify the original seller and the parts and work done on the motor. Both motors have done what they were told they were to do and are now with other people who bought them off him.

If you don't feel comfortable, you should not outlay your money. Even if someone showed me photos of the engine internals, I wouldn't buy it. A motor is something I would not buy without my own personal inspection. Each to their own. I'm not angry or anything I'm just putting shit out there lol.

And someone PM'd me offering 6k for a motor. I AM NOT THE SELLER lol.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kapr · Posted

      So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Watermouse
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Watermouse · Posted

      Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...