Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Body Onto Gq Patrol Chassis/drivetrain With Rb26 Motor


Recommended Posts

I have had an idea buzzing around in my head for a custom build and I have some questions about feasability.

GQ Patrols have an RB30 motor (in some of them). I've seen some Patrols running an RB26 conversion for extra power which is a relatively straightforward conversion.

The Idea

I have often wondered about taking a LWB GQ Patrol chassis, shortening it by 305mm to match the wheelbase to an R34 GT-T 2 door, fitting an RB26 then modifying the R34 with a custom floor pan, matching body mounts to that of the GQ Patrol and bolting the two together. Retain the Patrol diffs, suspension, drivetrain etc and fit the R34's cooling system, engine management etc. A bit like taking the old Kingswood ute's and bolting them to a Range Rover chassis only with a Skyline/Patrol version.

I realise the project is

A. Impractical.

B. Costly

..............but most projects are :teehee:

What are the pitfalls? I can think of quite a few but keen on the SAU input.

FWIW no I'm not 12 years old with big dreams and a small budget

I dont think you will ever be able to engineer a cut and shut chassis, you had better speak to the engineer you plan to use first if you plan to road register it.

I believe they would have used the stock RB30 block, with forged internals then slapped the 26 head on it, as you need all the torque you can get to move the weight. I was planning to do my brother's patrol the same way.

took us 11 hours to swap an rb25det into the rb30 patrol and drive it away. drives fine and is going up hills in 3rd that used to require to drop back to 1st. rb25/30 would be even better, but that increases costs etc

as for the rest, that would be up to the engineer.

biggest hurdles i can see is wheel tubs, floor clearance to GQ handbrake setup (behind GB) and drive shaft, and the entry/exit angles if using the 34 body.

Thanks for all your ideas.

Adriano - The short wheelbase chassis is shorter than the 34 so would need lengthening. I could use the LWB chassis and lengthening the 34 body by 34 mm, but this would take away from the skyline's lines I think.

Scotty - Engineering a cut/shut chassis would be possible (as it is legal to build your own chassis if properly engineered) but it would need to be subjected to some pretty rigourous twisting tests to ensure safety.

XRATED - The Rhino buggies look cool.

Craved - I think a custom floor pan would solve the handbrake/driveshaft issues, and entry and exit angles would definitely be compromised using a skyline body, however with a body lift and some custom barwork I think it would be achievable.

What do you mean by the wheel arches presenting a problem?

Scotty - Engineering a cut/shut chassis would be possible (as it is legal to build your own chassis if properly engineered) but it would need to be subjected to some pretty rigourous twisting tests to ensure safety.

Perhaps, it may depend where you are too.

My brother bought an ex ambulance f250 that had been professionally shortened after the rear axle (by the government), it took him over a year to get registered in Victoria, and only after hassling every engineer and Vicroads manager he could find. None of them wanted a bar of it. Chassis rails have to be one piece apparently. Ring and ask?

  • 2 weeks later...

should make it easier Andrew, as you can cut the reinforced areas out without affecting the chassis strength

as to guard clearance, if you are going to run big tyres, and over alot of rough terrain the axles are going to move to some crazy angles. so unless the body lift as very noticable to may have issues with the tyres contacting the guards.

for example my r33 front guard openings are only 28 inchs wide. most 4WD's will run 33 inch tyres or similar

It all sounds nice but arent you worried about basics like engine oil trouble, patrol will go places an rb26 was never designed to travel across, I own both the cars you mention and I recon you would be dissapointed.

In the end you would have 2 throw away cars, unsellable.

An idea, have a search, I recently came across a bloke on a chat site, think he was in U.K. modifying rb26 single exh stainless manifold, to mate a big single to 4.2 patrol he had head semi assembled on bench inc man&turbo, like the man he's onto something.

And if I remember correcty he was going to make/mod more if anyone was interested

4.2 torque down low and buckets up top.

dont you have to update engines in cars not go backwards so what would it be patrol or skyline compliance hasells till the end of time, forget insurance.

and gq 4.2 don't run a cat std, so there's 1 problem gone.

engine mod not a whole car from scratch.

In the end you would have something you could sell,not what it cost but you'd have something special just the same.

and for a whole lot less than rb26, it would also be up and running in a 20th the time.

recon you should have a look around 4x4 chat sites to see what othes have achieved and go from there.

Heres another option save 50+% of the dollars your idea would cost, if your 32 is gtr, have a look at Nismo's lattest offering r34 6 speed conversion for 33 and 32gtrs About 11k ex japan, if I had the money!!!.

Edited by nobby
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

I dont think you will ever be able to engineer a cut and shut chassis, you had better speak to the engineer you plan to use first if you plan to road register it.

I believe they would have used the stock RB30 block, with forged internals then slapped the 26 head on it, as you need all the torque you can get to move the weight. I was planning to do my brother's patrol the same way.

you can modify a cars chasis all you want. SO LONG as 40% is unmodified and original!!!!!

one of the guidelines we go by at the hotrod shop.

you can modify a cars chasis all you want. SO LONG as 40% is unmodified and original!!!!!

one of the guidelines we go by at the hotrod shop.

+1 we get patrols and landcruisers which have been converted into 4 door ute's with an extended chassis. It's more a case of being done correctly, fish plates and that jazz.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...

i read a few yrs ago about a guy that put his commodore wagon shell on a patrol chassis running a holden 5litre. the whole thing was engineered and registered in NSW. i cant imagine using a r34 shell would make it any harder to engineer. it would be an interesting car to see. maybe to avoid cutting the chassis you could use a 4 door body???

yeah ive seen a few commo's like this too.

i doubt you will get around the chassis cutting thing. the old VW Manx's were shortened. and very popular. the only way to have one of those now is if it was an original one from way back when.

you can still build/buy them, but they are a full length chassis for these reasons.

go for it tho, this could look hilarious :) and very different :thumbsup:

i read a few yrs ago about a guy that put his commodore wagon shell on a patrol chassis running a holden 5litre. the whole thing was engineered and registered in NSW. i cant imagine using a r34 shell would make it any harder to engineer. it would be an interesting car to see. maybe to avoid cutting the chassis you could use a 4 door body???

I know the guy that owns this.... hell of alot of work.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm seeing torque specs all over the place for the OUTER tie rod, but none for the INNER tie rod, where it connects to the steering rack. Even in videos, people are just tightening em up as much as they can with a wrench and that's it. Anything tightened down without torque makes me nervous. Anyone know what the spec is for it?
    • Hope you had a great time here in our tiny country.   The JDM scene we have here is quite small, it's mostly BMW, Volkswagen with burble tunes haha. But the few JDM cars we do have in the scene are pretty nice. Some of my friends drive cool s14's too. Both built engines, red one makes abt 500, blue one abt 400 i think?
    • Ye good idea , would have never thought of something like that. Might aswell do it to every pulley and the balancer while I’m there 
    • Use an LS1 or similar, via kit like Frenchy's. But.... It's probably not the alternator. It sounds like belt squeal, which would be because the pulleys are glazed. Rub every groove on the pulleys with 120 grit paper. Report back. Oh, and new belts afterwards too. The old new ones will be shitted up already.
    • Hello all I have 2 r34 sedans , one turbo one na, only recently aquired the na 34.  Man what is with these things.... My turbo 34 started sounding like a super charger, it was screaming at anything above 4000rpm , I took the alternator apart and replaced the front bearing which is the only one I think you can access and it did not fix the issue so presumably the bearing in the rear of the alternator is gone. ( diagnosed it was the alternator by taking off the aux belts one by one to figure out which pulley or bearing it was )  My friend gave me one he had lying around, Installed it , it did not squeal for maybe 500kms and now its started to squeal again briefly on startup  Recently got an na r34 and I replaced the timing belt, water pump + all the auxillirary belts. Runs amazing but it suddenly developed the same squeaking problem but significantly worse, Ive had my neighbour come down screaming at me because it was waking her up everytime I moved the car. It takes a good 2 minutes before it quietens down.  Im yet to diagnose where its coming from but im fairly sure its coming from the alternator aswell. My question isnt about how to fix it but rather where can you get a new alternator for an rb25 neo??? Ive searched everywhere but I havent been able to find a direct fit oem type replacement thats not genuine. All the automotive stores sell an oex one - BXA035 - which I picked up for cheap through a friend with staff discount , got it home only to find the connector is completelty different.... As far as im aware bxa035 is for rb20/30's and after a bit of figuring out the bxa035 has an ev14 type connector, which is tiny compared to the rb25 connector. I actually had an ev14 connector lying around which I was considering just replacing the bigger plug with to get the alternator working but the bxa035 is rated for 70amp vs the rb25 alternators are 90amp ( or so ive been told ? ) That paired along with the fact im about to install an amp + sub in the back and I have the stock sized small battery Im not sure itll do the job unless anyone has another opinion?  I know and have seen all the websites selling the ls1 alternator conversion kit but I am not going down that route, nor do I have the money to. Hopefully I can figure out how to get 2 brand new alternators for both cars. I would buy second hand which there seems to be many of but considering how common this seems to be im sure If I installed a second hand one it would start squealing in no time  Or even better if anyone knows how to fix the issue directly with the alternator itself... Any input appreciated Thank you     Link for bxa035 connector picture
×
×
  • Create New...