Jump to content
SAU Community

Hypothetical - What Kit Would You Want Copied

a31rb25

By a31rb25,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

  

11 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Mr Eps Grand Master

Mr Eps

Posted
Posted

Dan - i *think* it's called the 3910 cefiro..

it's the red and white pair of cefiros from japan with the white rims

made a lot of noise on japcar blogs late last year...

i think the rims were were origin DNA???

can anybody please post pics? they all seem to be dead links... :( there's a red one and a white one :)

stock bodied iirc!

  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Mr Eps Grand Master

Mr Eps

Posted
Posted

Cheers big ears

See stock is sexy...

Make a copy of the bumper.. Tweak the mouth a bit.. Maybe turn it upside down so it doesn't "smile"

And extend the front lip / replace it with a shakotan chin spoiler...

I'd do that. Just clean with no swoop

a31rb25 Community Regular

a31rb25

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Not a fan of the stock bar/lip at all. I can see the advantages of it on a street car though, no uber flares or superlow cop-bait features.

Quick update: Company I'm talking to is chasing down the possibility of producing a symmetrical Autech S1 kit in plastic.

funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

Company I'm talking to is chasing down the possibility of producing a symmetrical Autech S1 kit in plastic.

i want in on this gangbang.

a31rb25 Community Regular

a31rb25

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I get the feeling I'm going to get shot if this falls through... so i'll throw it out there. NO PROMISES!!!

Personally I'm happy with a fibreglass kit if it's not going to cost a squillon dollars and there's a mold but I'll keep everybody posted on the progress.

Nic_A31 Grand Master

Nic_A31

Posted
Posted (edited)

My only problem with the stock bars is that they bend inwards too much / become to narrow.

Compare inside bottom of bumper to where the doors / body are on the chassis.

Should atleast be inline with that. Or where the park light / indicator is where it joins the fender, straight drop downwards, rather than merge back in.

By comparison, all aftermarket kits overfix this by going bullshit wide with the flaring (ie Uras)

IMO This is why Autech is sought after, it keeps the car "stock looking" somewhat as Rowan suggested, and also squares up the shape of the body a bit without going over the top. Subtle yet very effective.

Edited by Nic_A31
funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

I get the feeling I'm going to get shot if this falls through...

shot? no. banned? yes. :D no pressure.

lol I need plastic cos my stock front bar (no splitter) sits 2inches off the ground at the current height. Autech is lower so it'll sit nice and low. At that height fibreglass will shatter when I go over a lane marker/rock.

Instant gentleman would be sweet, but:

1) too much work to make a mould

2) doesn't really suit the square faces of the ceffy. Chaser etc are much more rounded.

Autech's the only one that goes straight down and doesn't look mad homo by flaring out. You can buy good quality fibreglass Autech kits from aeromaster.jp pretty cheap... but it's kinda pointless.

Nic_A31 Grand Master

Nic_A31

Posted
Posted

any chance of getting lip as seperate piece for standard and/or Autech?

http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=http://page11.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/n78165379&thumb=http://f5.auctions.c.yimg.jp/img129.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/7/4/5/8/hitsstyle-thumb-123280648947578.jpg&title=A31

toffy Veteran

toffy

Posted
Posted

I'd like to see Autech series 1, "widened" mouth, symmetrical hole on the drivers side,

and something I've always wanted to see....... what about incorporating the factory side illumination lamps?

^^ this is a good idea , i wouldn't go too much wider with the 'mouth' probably 3-5cm each way?

a31rb25 Community Regular

a31rb25

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Widened mouth? How big are the coolers you're running to need a widened mouth?

I'll ask about the add on lip next time we speak but i'm going with the symmetrical Autech bar for now as it's simple (which hopefully means cheap). Baby steps, IF that works out then I'll start looking at other stuff like the lip, roof spoiler and so on.

Edited by a31rb25
funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

and something I've always wanted to see....... what about incorporating the factory side illumination lamps?

If this happens and I get one, I'm just gonna cut mine to put the lamps in... should be pretty straightforward.

a31rb25 Community Regular

a31rb25

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Latest news: For legal reasons any design has to be different, so...... an Autech bar with a symmetrical intake would be enough. As would the TBO bar with a less pronounced full lip (doesn't recess at the mouth). Same goes with any other kit pieces.

Plastic molding is not a financially viable option - one place was happy happy to do it but wanted $25K up front to make the mold - metal molds, plastic injection. On top of that would be materials, labour, etc.

Still waiting to hear back about FRP. Fibreglass is looking like the best option at the moment.

Ideas on tweaks for these rear bars? (I've chosen these for ease of molding)

1)

400x350-2010072900061.jpg

2)

600x400-2008102200443.jpg

3)

aeromasterjp-img600x450-1189240018a31t1rok.jpg

Edited by a31rb25
Nic_A31 Grand Master

Nic_A31

Posted
Posted

I prefer the last Autech pic. With the "bubbles" around the number plate section.

I know, all you haters hate them on the front and rear bars, but stfu, I reckon it looks better with them,

As for tweaking them, I dunno...I'll let others decide.

toffy Veteran

toffy

Posted
Posted

I prefer the last Autech pic. With the "bubbles" around the number plate section.

I know, all you haters hate them on the front and rear bars, but stfu, I reckon it looks better with them,

As for tweaking them, I dunno...I'll let others decide.

+1 , Make the D part beside the number plate slightly shorter (or the number plate hole bigger to accomodate adm numberplates) and make the exhaust cut out wider . AAAaaand if you look at a stock rear bar , they have a groove just under the tail lights , you could add that in?

Nic_A31 Grand Master

Nic_A31

Posted
Posted

Combine both those Autech bars.

The S2 is flat at the bottom, the S1 (1st pic) isn't.

I dont like how the S1 flares on the sides as it heads back to the wheel arches though.

Keep it even along the sides, have that cut out in the middle rear, THAT, on a series 2 Autech.

If its even, it'll make the whole car look better when slammed. A bumper that is uneven in edge (ie S1 Autech, Uras, Dianna, etc) looks shitty. More "boxed" shape like S2 Autech. Does that even make sense?

As Toffy said, widder to accomodate Aus plates.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Noice. Mostly.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yuck. But it's kinda the same principle, moving timing around to make car run bad but sound good.... I went for a more spirited tuning drive to iron out a few things. Car no longer stalls, and it loved to dip RPM low when you clutch in. After tuning this (and the 4-5 tables that HPTuners/LS1 OEM ECU wants for idle air correction) it's now behaving somewhat normal. All expected because there's a new TB, new Intake manifold and that new TB which is 102mm vs 78... has an entirely different IAC passage which is smaller because ????? Unfortunately at this point I went to make further fine tuning changes to avoid it flaring up, you know... _tuning_ the HPTuners dongle died. Well to be more accurate - The USB cable died in a fashion that anyone who has ever charged a phone will recognize. After the app demanding I resync it 50 or so times (which all 'succeeded' but all failed) the device does not want to sync and I've logged a ticket with support to see if it's fixable. US Support said it was a 'storage issue' but after removing the SD card inside it and formatting it/fixing it the issue does persist. Unfortunately usually the fix is "Turn in your old dongle and pay $700 for the upgraded one" it's cheaper because I get some free licence credits I unfortunately don't need. However I'm 10 minutes down the road from HP Tuners AUS/VCM so at least I won't need to post it, and logged a new ticket for support over here. Definitely drives different. My SOTP dyno believes it's probably making 310-320kw instead of the 280 before.  It scrambles for traction a little now whereas it previously different. It drives like a bigger cam car up top even though the cam is smaller, likely due to the cam not being advanced 6 degrees. The timing is deliberately low and the fuel is very rich so who knows if this will improve on the dyno. It may, imperceptably. Also funny is removing the pineapples definitely makes the car squat more and axle tramp less. So this behavior of having more top end, squatting more, and scrabbling for traction more makes me think = more power. But I could have just been sitting on the threshold of that kind of behavior before. Time will tell if my butt dyno is calibrated right. I need the exhaust leaks fixed before dyno tune for obvious AFR related reasons - I repositioned the pipes but I'm not confident it's fully sealed even if it is better. At least the car does drive around while I cannot tweak/tune it for now. And I have aircon again. medium success!
    • GTSBoy
      I need more than help to finish my R33

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Don't use that manifold. Please don't use that manifold. Sunk cost fallacy is not worth the later pain. None of these will be relevant to the change that will come from the different turbo and manifold. As in, the effect of the exhaust will be nil, regardless of what else is changed. And all the cam and fuel system stuff is not changing either way, so has no effect. The turbo and manifold (and to a small extent the wastegate)....big change.
    • marni
      I need more than help to finish my R33

      By marni · Posted

      Just wanted to say thank you for your input   my man (lead mechanic by trade) and I have done a heap of work as you can imagine just to make the hot side work with the dump pipe, stupid massive intake on turbo, trying to get the waste gate on was not fun.  I’m kinda getting to the point where I don’t know if I try and make this work and not throw all this cash and time away or do I scrap the lot and start again? the Apexi I’ve got was tuned for a few slight differences:   Tomei pon cams (mine are stock neo) Turbo smart 38mm external waste gate (mines 45mm replumbed) with stainless screamer pipe  3inch turbo back exhaust with high flow cat Sard 800cc top feed injectors Sard adjustable fuel pressure reg    
    • joshuaho96
      My BMW 335i

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Out here E90s are the cheapest way into a sporty-ish car because everyone knows just how expensive the repairs can get. 8-10k USD for an automatic 335i. 
×
×
  • Create New...