Water Pump Flow Rates

[scotty nm35]

Yeh Shibbby, there is a company called Nissan, go to the parts counter and ask. They should have one in stock.

I use Amayama.

[Shibbby]

Yer yer

Over the counter is quite expensive on occasions, after 10 years of NS migrating here lead me to wonder if you guys "had a Taark" of your own for R chassis parts aswell

https://www.taarks.com/mobile/Default.aspx

Anyway might try an eBay seller, slightly wary though.

Appreciate the reply, will get back to you soon as per our pms for your injectors, you have been the best across the board I've found for fuel system aswell.

[scotty nm35]

Did you look at Amayama's site? It ships from UAE but they ship fast and their prices are usually very good.

[Shibbby]

Just finished signing up after a quick look around their site, exactly what I was looking for thanks lots mate

[black bnr32]

Crank Size Belt Speed/Ratio 2000 3000 4000 6000 7000 8000 10000

RB26 140mm 4PK875 1:1.07 2140 3210 4280 6420 7490 8560 10700

RB30 114mm 4PK850 1:1.315 2630 3945 5260 7890 9205 10520 13150

VG30OD 100mm 4PK835 1:1.5 3000 4500 6000 9000 10500 12000 15000

just wanted to add to this post for future searchers

ATI aluminum pulley that comes with the rb26 917752 damper: ~127mm

[eXquiSit]

hi all

just wondering what is the best water pump for a street car making 500kw at the rear wheels

thanks

[Piggaz]

Stock.

[eXquiSit]

it is an rb30

stock 26 one then?

[niZmO_Man]

Stock RB30

[eXquiSit]

thanks for that

this pump here:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-SKYLINE-STAGEA-LAUREL-WATER-PUMP-R33-R34-C34-NEO-RB25DET-RB25-GENUINE-N1-/320939120027?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ab976559b

claims:

Updated design from earlier RB25 water pumps, narrower casting speeds up

coolant flow, no slotted bolt hole for best seal.

is it actually better than the older design?

[eXquiSit]

anyone know as per my query above?

[1kr33steven]

The claim eXquiSit is the taper on the housing itself speeds up the velocity of water however the fundamentals of centrifugal pumps its more something that sounds cool rather than having any bearing on actual performance a water pump in a car is the crudest form of centrifugal pump there is,

[B-rice]

I have a 25/30 setup should I stick with the 30 pump. Do they flow sufficiently for the setup.

[GTRNUR]

Yes, stay with the 30 pump.

Its not just about flow rates.  Having the capability to deliver pressure is also a factor, as the head becomes a restriction at higher engine speeds.  This means that as hotspots form in the head and a gas pocket begins to expand, the pressure can keep the gas pocket small and move it on out of the engine to a cooler area (radiator).

[Predator1]

On 12/06/2011 at 11:04 PM, STATUS said:

i had a r34 gtr that was getting hot in traffic....tried evrything then pulled the pump as a last resort and found it to an N1 pump... fitted a std gtr item and it fixed the issue.. put the n1 pump on our drift car and it worked fine. In a street car it just didnt flow enough at lower rpm... thats the only real work comparo ive done

Sorry to dig up again - I think I have an N1 pump. Is there anyway of telling from the outside?? I'm having the same issues.

[GTRNUR]

On 07/06/2022 at 3:10 PM, Predator1 said:

Sorry to dig up again - I think I have an N1 pump. Is there anyway of telling from the outside?? I'm having the same issues.

Nope... They look the same from the outside.

[Predator1]

On 13/06/2022 at 12:54 AM, GTRNUR said:

Nope... They look the same from the outside.

Ah bugger. I suspect I have an N1 pump. No way to confirm.

Could you please tell me where you got the VG30 billet wp pulley from? I'm keen to buy one to help speed up my wp to see if that makes a diff to my idle temps.

[GTRNUR]

On 13/06/2022 at 7:20 AM, Predator1 said:

Ah bugger. I suspect I have an N1 pump. No way to confirm.

Could you please tell me where you got the VG30 billet wp pulley from? I'm keen to buy one to help speed up my wp to see if that makes a diff to my idle temps.

My recommendation would be to check everything else before going that route.

Air/steam pockets, shrouding the radiator so it doesn't recirculate hot air.  Bleed the air and/or add an air separation tank.

Radiator thickness if aftermarket can be an issue.  Too thick is not good for airflow.  Above 45mm in traffic and expect issues, as you can't move air through it fast enough unless you have 80km/h of air pressure in front of it.

Then, try get an old steel VG30 pully first.  Ebay or a wrecker from a nissan pathfinder, maxima or 300zx.  It will be cheap because they can't give those things away.  Keep in mind it will increase your clutch fan speed too.

My current setup, I went back to an OEM pump, with the RB26 sized large pully supplied with the ATI balancer.  My 3.4lt's maintains 84 degrees even on hot days.  In winter, it rides the thermostat at 82, and oil is the same thanks to my 96 row earls oil cooler.

[Predator1]

On 13/06/2022 at 8:35 PM, GTRNUR said:

My recommendation would be to check everything else before going that route.

Air/steam pockets, shrouding the radiator so it doesn't recirculate hot air.  Bleed the air and/or add an air separation tank.

Radiator thickness if aftermarket can be an issue.  Too thick is not good for airflow.  Above 45mm in traffic and expect issues, as you can't move air through it fast enough unless you have 80km/h of air pressure in front of it.

Then, try get an old steel VG30 pully first.  Ebay or a wrecker from a nissan pathfinder, maxima or 300zx.  It will be cheap because they can't give those things away.  Keep in mind it will increase your clutch fan speed too.

My current setup, I went back to an OEM pump, with the RB26 sized large pully supplied with the ATI balancer.  My 3.4lt's maintains 84 degrees even on hot days.  In winter, it rides the thermostat at 82, and oil is the same thanks to my 96 row earls oil cooler.

Hey, Yeah I have tried a few things. My issue is - At idle, its very hard to get a stable temp. With a 1000cfm SPAL AC fan, which was set to come on at 94, it wouldn't be able to control at all. In traffic, it would regularly go over 100. I tried lowering it to 88, which didnt help at all, even 80. My setup below:

3.2 Nitto - Block isn't grout filled or anything
ATI 1000hp kit with the water pump pulley(IIRC its 127~mm diameter)
Trust Radiator before, currently running 44~mm KoyoRad
Stock shroud
Nismo thermostat(replaced it with another brand new Nismo) - Both of them open at the same temp(Tested it in a boiling pot)
Upgraded to 2500~ Maradyne 14inch AC fan with new wiring etc.
Greddy Radiator breather tank
GKTech Radiator Fan(Have tried stock fan as well but its the same, doesn't change temps
Carbon fiber cooling panel(doesn't make a difference if taken off)

Currently its set to 83 degrees. The new Maradyne AC fan does help, but in a stinking hot summer day here in NZ(26~) it still has a hard time, as the temps do creep up slowly.

I've spoken to the engine builder who doesn't quite remember, but he says he usually uses RB30 water pumps.

So that's essentially my cooling setup and my situation. Its winter here now, so I dont drive her much.

I should say, during summer, my cruising temps  on the motorways around 76 ECT and 74~ oil. I do have a turbo beanie which has raised my oil and ECT temps by 1-2 degrees average, however the issues at idle still remain. It used to be much worse without the beanie. Now my engine bay is much more cooler - Except for this lingering issue as you can see. 

 

Edited June 13, 2022 by Predator1

[GTRNUR]

Something is defiantly not right there.  Your setup is almost identical to mine, radiator, greddy swirl pot etc.  Im using an OEM 82 degree thermostat though, not the low temp one.

My car will run between 84-86 on 34 degree (North Queensland) heat with the AC pumping when sitting in traffic.    The clutch fan is absolutely roaring when its like this, as the viscous hub has probably locked up 100% at this stage.  Have you tried another viscous hub?  They don't last for ever. 

Its possible that the hub either isn't locking up because its leaked, or its not getting hot enough to cause it to lock up and begin that self regulation thing its designed to do.  If its sucking cold air around the radiator core, there will not be sufficient heat to make the viscous hub work properly.

When I installed my Koyo radiator, i put in a lot of effort to seal the shroud to the radiator, so the fan could ONLY draw air through the radiator core and not bypass it.  Then a lot more effort was put into blocking air recirculation back around the radiator to the front of the car.  More than anything when stationary, this helps stop temperature runaway.  As the fan is only able to draw in COOL air in front of the HOT core.

Consider a coolant air flow leak as being as bad as a coolant leak.  It effects efficiency overall of the system.  Something I learned from back in my air cooled VW days.  If its sucking hot air or recirculating it, the engine isnt cooling.