Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

With regard to these Walbro E85 pumps are people having issues with them circulating too much fuel and getting hot fuel and tank pressurisation as a result of it ? Just curious to know what happens in warm weather and traffic driving .

Also does anyone have pics of one mounted to an R33s bracket ?

Lastly noise , my 25T is not particularly noisy and I can hear my 33 GTR pump whining away .

I run E70 and don't think I'd ever see more that 320 kw , Nismo is probably the easiest and quiet but you pay for it .

Cheers Adrian .

I just fitted an e85 Walbro 460 into a V8 Soarer, I could barely hear it. If you instal it correctly it will be quieter than most pumps out there, including the Nismo/Tomei.

My twin 255 setup definitely heats the fuel on hot days, within two or three hours. No issues with the tank, just the pumps get a little noisy, and a little rail evaporation I think which makes re-starting take a little longer.

I just wonder about this hot fuel business with high Eth fuels because it obviously wants to boil a little more easily . The old Bluebird converted to EFI had a Carter lift pump and a Bosch 975 main pump and it used to have a few hot fuel issues with petrol .

I also remember once wondering what would happen if a FPR was T'd off before the fuel rail and returned the fuel from before the rail not after it . In theory the rails still pressurised but all fuel in it can only exit via the injectors . Isn't this how late cars work only with a dumb (non manifold pressure referenced) FPR in the fuel tank ? May make for interesting hot starts !

Also I've been looking at pics of the Nismo drop in pump and it looks very much like a Z32 VG30TT one with the bracket made to suit OE rubber mounts . For 300+ RWKW these are probably a no brainer and OE Nissan Japan gear tends to be pretty good , its just the Scrooge in me wants to know if there is a slightly more "cost effective" solution .

Also before I go these OE pump speed controllers , did R33 GTRs use "three speeds" where the GT25Ts had two ? I run a Vipec plug in and a 33GTR pump and I don't think I've heard its tone change except when the engine is close to stalling revs . Then it sounds like it slows down which can't be good . I think a battery supply rewire is needed here .

Sorry so many cheers A .

Sydney Kid posted a thing that you can wire to your airflow meter as voltage increases it allows more current to the pump. This however im not sure how it would work with Vipec I have a vipec too and would like to know how i can vary the voltage received by the pump depending on how i drive. Another option would be a fuel cooler but i dont see them being very effective for temp drop, they do help though

  • 2 weeks later...

I'm just going round in circles ATM wondering what to do fuel pump wise , need it to live with E70 and it seems some fuel pumps may not be long term reliable with these high ethanol content fuels . Fuel pumps are lubricated by the fuel and ethanol alcohol obviously doesn't do it as well as ULP so I guess roller cell pumps won't live as long .

I'm going to start a thread on those Walbro F90000267 E85 compatible pumps .

A .

Sydney Kid posted a thing that you can wire to your airflow meter as voltage increases it allows more current to the pump. This however im not sure how it would work with Vipec I have a vipec too and would like to know how i can vary the voltage received by the pump depending on how i drive. Another option would be a fuel cooler but i dont see them being very effective for temp drop, they do help though

Lowering the voltage to the pump will cause the current draw to rise, and perhaps cause the pump to stall/burn out. The voltage needs to be 12V minimum and switched as a square wave input (PWM) for the pump to last imo, although the Vipec could control a solid state relay at that frequency just fine at a guess.

my Nismo pump is quite noisy. Almost sounds like a dremel or shaver enclosed. But its only loud when its full and the buzzing lasts all the way to 1/4 tank.

Nismo is pretty damn quiet. Yes, it louder than an OEM unit, but not like a 044.

Something is touching somewhere and Vibing on it. Once the tank gets down there isn't as much fuel to move the pump around?

Funny, my 044 is the opposite. Much louder at 1/4 tank.

Mates have used nismo drop ins for years with no hassles as a lift pump to there surge tanks. Althou a wqlboro off scotty mn35 would be a better pump for e85 as well as cheaper.

Josh

Edited by Joshbigt62r

Quick question, mightve been answered before but I didn't want to start another thread, is the nismo pumps e85 compatible?

im pretty sure Nismo also considered race gas in their RnD. Besides Nismo over engineer everything they make i doubt E85 would cause you any problems.

I hope so. . Ive contacted an ebay seller about this and he said nismo couldnt give him a straight answer as to wether it would be okay on e85 or not

But yet again another(big name) retailer with his listing for a nismo pump for a r34 gtr states" not compatable with e85" !

Edited by StevenCJR31
  • 2 weeks later...

Thought I'd post in this topic rather than start a new one as my query is reasonably relevant to the conversation, but when installing the Walbro 450LPH pumps does the choice of sock have any influence over the flow? I'm assuming not otherwise they wouldnt have supplied two but I'm wondering whether using the smaller sock would impede the flow at all (pic attached).

The smaller sock seems to fit nicely into the bottom of my cradle so would prefer to use that. If it negatively influences flow though will use the larger of the two.

Cheers

post-132-0-09744100-1378603768_thumb.jpg

Just to bump this a bit - in the attached pic I've positioned the fuel pump in the cradle as I would like to mount it (upright - got the idea from trustr32 on here).

I'm just concerned that the sock might be too small? The pump is a Walbro 450lph unit as mentioned above. Does anyone think the size of the sock will cause any restriction problem? It does sit very nicely right in the bottom of the cradle which is why I'd like to mount it like this.

post-132-0-27429300-1378723262_thumb.jpg

I think u are on a winner with that setup as it also sits in the lowest part of the cradle and is really not much smaller than the oem sock.

What brand sock is that and what is the ID of the sock fitting?

That's what I was thinking, sits right down in the lowest part of the cradle. I'm not sure of the ID but it came with the pump so I'm assuming it's a Walbro branded sock. Maybe I'll just chuck it in and see how it goes - should be ok I suppose! :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hmm. Yes. I should have been clearer. 1000s for Haltech, for extra headroom. 725s for Nistune. You might even be OK with 640s, but if the possible power ends up much more than 300 rwkW you will run out of headroom on the 640s. That would probably be OK and a signal to not push it to that sort of power with Nistune anyway. At that level you probably do want to be thinking about engine protection functions. Oh, and all of that presumes 98 only, not E85. Well....the 1000s would allow you to run E85 at ~300rwkW territory, again, maybe sort of running out of headroom. Hard to tell with E85 - depends on the tuner as to how rich they like to set it up.
    • Yes.  The only scenario I can imagine when the answer isn't yes, is if you drive like there is highway patrol behind you at all times.  If your car currently runs, enjoy it and keep saving. Better costs more, keep saving until you can budget the better ECU. It's worth it.  Nope. Plenty of us making >300kw on unopened motors. Mine is unopened and makes about 350kw if I turn everything up, its fine (lots of caveats here, how the car will be used/abused, how long you expect the engine to last between rebuilds, how has the engine been maintained prior to coming into your ownership, etc etc).   
    • Sorry just wanting to clarify, at this power goal, which should I be going? Also, More info regarding suspension, the rear upper camber arms were used to get the camber back to i believe around -0.5 ~ -1 degree (@ Road and Race in Rydalmere), I forgot the exact figure, but ALOT less camber than what it came originally which was like -2.5degrees. Are the traction arms still recommended? The bilsteins from SydneyKid, they've got 400lb/in fronts & 275/in in the rear, revalved to his specs. Intercooler, I'm just having a look at some on Rakuten.jp and some other japanese sites. Might get something from back there, GReddy, Blitz or HPI, all crossflow. Looking at roughly $450-$500 AUD + shipping... Theres not many choices except that chinese branded Justjap unless you go for blitz return flow. Yeah, only downside with Haltech is the price ahhaha, so expensive, and with all the sensors if I go that route... $$$$$ yeesh. Are headstuds/gaskets needed for <300akw?
    • Haltech fanboi reporting in. Buy the Haltech! 
    • You can try shoving a borescope down there to see what's up.
×
×
  • Create New...