Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Just out of curiosity has anyone gone down the E85 road with there Stagea?

I'm looking at doing this and was wanting to know if anyone else has gone down this path. I'm curious to know what kind of power you are getting, what ecu you have and what size fuel pump and injectors you're running.

I've already got 660cc injectors though given some recent purchases these will need to be swapped out, I was thinking of getting 1000cc but wasn't sure if this would be overkill. I believe I have a Nismo fuel pump but have heard of people using dual fuel pumps to run this stuff.

If anyone knows someone in the Brisbane area that I could talk to, offer some advice in this area that would be great. Looking for someone with E85 tuning experience and an upgrade on my ecu which is currently the Apexi power fc. Some people have said to go Haltech but I used to hear some bad stories about these a few years back... if anyone has experience with this please share. I'm just looking to build something reliable and with dual fuel map type setup.

I'm getting my motor built at the moment and will be looking at fuel upgrades/ecu once I have the package together.... if you can tell from what I'm putting together down below maybe you could tell me if I'm on the right track? (1000cc 2 X Nismo fuel pumps+ Haltech??)

rb26 bottom end. block chemicaly cleaned, bored 40thou, crack tested, new welsh plugs, de-burred. r33 crank cryo frozen for strength, balanced, crack tested, micro polished. new n1 oil pump and water pump. new oil squiters in block, new nitto H beam rods, cp 40thou pistons, nismo bearings. full arp head and main stud kit, tomei oil restrictor.

Getting the head of my current car chemically cleaned and crack tested, some minor head work including TOMEI Camshafts Poncam RB26DETT 9163 Type B (9.15 lift 260 degree), TOMEI Valve Springs Set Type-B RB26DETT 9784 & TOMEI Metal Gasket Combination Set RB26DETT 13436.

I have the HKS660C injectors, HKS-GT-SS turbos and am fittin up a HKS Type R intercooler 600x300x100 and hard piping kit, HKS dumps, Apexi front pipe and Kakimoto N1 Full Mega exhaust.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360618-stagea-e85-tunes/
Share on other sites

Posted in the wrong place?

My Stagea is tuned for E85 but its a M35...

Yeah I thought I posted this in the Stagea page... maybe it was moved???

But i guess this is as good a place to get some advice, i remember reading up on Guiltoy's tuning experience somewhere in this forum. That was a while ago now and was curious to know what other people are doing.

I didn't think the power fc were as good as its only a single rom, I thought some of the newer ecu's made it easier to tune and could support multiple fuel maps which would be changed easily depending on whats available at the pump. So green with this, what about the injectors/fuel pump...

I'm trying to sell my GT-SS if I can get something reasonable to upgrade to the GT-RS... just not sure if this is a good idea with everything else getting done with a single pump and 660c injectors... hence I might leave turbo as is and just do the E85 tune and see where I'm at then and maybe upgrade to something still streetable but bigger than the turbos I have now.

I want to keep my low mount setup as I'm approaching the point where I need to stop spending or risk losing something a little more personal from an angry girlfriend. She wasn't happy when I told her I just spent 12K, the same 12K that could've bought her a diamond ring apparently... pfft.. turbos or rocks? What the hell was she thinking????

I think going GT-RS is a bad decision. If you need to upgrade turbos, get -5s at the maximum. I think Piggaz will no doubt give you a nicer insight if he see's this thread as even with 2.8l, his GT-RS setup is extremely laggy.

-5s are noticeably laggier than GT-SS (-9), but will make more power.

I've just done a similar swap from -9 to -5... Personally I'd not do it again given a second chance as just general driving around the response was amazing.

That said -5s certainly come into their own above 150km/h but forget it below that as you have to ring the cars neck to makeup the difference.

If you go E85 on the -9/GT-SS's you should be able to make around 360rwkw, maybe 370rwkw which is what -5s do on PULP.

This would certainly be the best of both worlds where you get response (and added response again with E85) and the higher top end.

I think going GT-RS is a bad decision. If you need to upgrade turbos, get -5s at the maximum. I think Piggaz will no doubt give you a nicer insight if he see's this thread as even with 2.8l, his GT-RS setup is extremely laggy.

-5s are noticeably laggier than GT-SS (-9), but will make more power.

I've just done a similar swap from -9 to -5... Personally I'd not do it again given a second chance as just general driving around the response was amazing.

That said -5s certainly come into their own above 150km/h but forget it below that as you have to ring the cars neck to makeup the difference.

If you go E85 on the -9/GT-SS's you should be able to make around 360rwkw, maybe 370rwkw which is what -5s do on PULP.

This would certainly be the best of both worlds where you get response (and added response again with E85) and the higher top end.

hmm I'm hearing what your saying about the turbo lag... this is definably something I want to stay away from... I guess I'll just keep the GT-SS as these are really good down low and come on quick which is perfect for the street... I guess I was just getting ahead of myself as I was thinking these turbos would be a waste on the engine that I'm putting together. I don't care solely about power but I've got a number in my head and I'm looking for something greater than 350kw at the wheels which is what got me thinking of upgrading the turbos... the other thing that was playing on my mind is if the engine can handle more boost, at what point can the GT-SS goto as I want a reliable setup and not have the turbos under stress if I'm pushing them past there limits.

I'll say this first - before i waffle so you don't have to read the rest if you don't want too.

But it comes down to you mate, and what you want.

I'd suggest getting into a car with -5s and 20psi (370-380rwkw), and 20psi with -9s (320-330rwkw) and then make your own decision. Yes some setups make more, more boost etc. Im just talking "general/broadly above".

20-22psi is about the most you can hold to 7500-8000rpm from -9s and it seems around 330rwkw and that's the absolute limits.

If i recall correct one person i think made 360rwkw on 26psi, but to the best of my knowledge that hasn't been repeated so it's hard to say if it was accurate.

Plus given the fact it was a lot more boost for not much more power - the turbos are pretty clearly on thier limits.

I have 2x built 26s at the moment:

HR31:

2x GT-SS's in 31.

GTR:

2x Custom turbos (similar to -9 in size for the sake of convo)

sold those and now have

2x -5s

Having had above setups I would never hesistate in saying get -9s or -7s.

For me personally the -5s are simly to laggy for the street. I do enjoy the "kick" when -5s come on boost and inbetween gear changes and i must admit i do giggle sometimes as it will occasionally turn the tyres.

But the fact is whilst it "feels" fast... It was quite noticeably less responsive inbetween gears/on-off throttle and so on as 90% of my driving is between 0-100km/h.

GTRs & Stags are heavy, you need as much as you can - as soon as you can IMO for a car that is street driven. It's the one thing I am struggling to adjust too as my HR31 is around 150-200kg's lighter and is noticeably more nimble when i swap between each car. Add to the fact it's RWD also, it doesn't understeer anywhere near as bad.

Having had above setups I would never hesistate in saying get -9s or -7s.

Cheers Nismoid for the advice, I'm not exactly clever with these things and am still learning as I go. Just trying to get by without making too many mistakes along the way.

At the tisk of sounding like a complete dill, I went searching for -7s turbos but couldn't find anything . Is there a faq or something I could read to educate myself on what these sizings actually refer to so that I know what I'm looking at when I'm reading up on the different options I have.

Similarly if you know of some turbos that you could recommend at this size I could also read up on this. Happy to learn what I can, thanks again for taking the time in your posts.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dang. I love the little 'oil used' bingo card on the side.   🤣  Well, now they can use a box and an oil-filled goon.
    • Many many moons ago, I was chatting with Andy Wyatt, about his auto ignition tuning. One of the HUGE things he said to me, when tuning for power, right where you hit peak ignition timing for your max torque, dramatically increases NOx emissions. He was finding in testing, particularly on engines you could advance timing beyond peak torque, that backing the ignition timing off a couple of degrees only made for a small drop in torque (compared to if you keep backing it off further the same amount of degrees) but dramatically reduced NOx emissions. I'd say targetting for 14.7, and he's even mentioned in some scenarios going slightly leaner, and pulling a few degrees of IGN timing will help pass for emissions quite a lot. However, who tunes an RB for emissions
    • The main stuff from.Vibrant I see is more their intercooler piping, and everyone raving about their clamps, but when I looked it was about $150 per clamp... I was a bit   I also thought the public price SP had up was high. As Mark said, a normal exhaust shop can fab them. It was many years ago that I had a full exhaust built, but for a full turbo back exhaust, and 2 custom built mufflers, plus a high flow cat, was about $1,100, and that was fully installed, drive in, drive out. I believe SP was about $900 for 2 mufflers, just supplied   These days, I just buy the material and built it myself, because I need to stretch my $$$
    • I'm pretty sure if it's considered a gasoline powered vehicle you have to do certification against a fixed, very expensive certification fuel.  If you add two precats and then replace the main cat with two cats back to back you can get an RB26 to do 0.24 g/mi HC, 1.6 g/mi CO, and 0.3 g/mi NOx on the FTP-75 drive cycle. Found this out courtesy of California's laws at great expense. Divide by 1.61 to get g/km. So even with extra cats + precats you're blowing past the NOx limit by probably 2.3x. Probably the only way to get an RB25 or RB26 to meet euro 4 purely from an emissions per km standpoint and not durability/OBD2 requirements is retrofit at least intake side VVT, clearance the pistons to allow the full 50 degrees of advance so part throttle EGR can be maximized, and change the wastegate control from conventional 7 psi spring for example to one that is always fully open if the wastegate line is at 1 atm or higher and only close it in response to vacuum. See BMW's N54 engine as a reference for how this works. You would need to find space for a vacuum tank to function as an accumulator in this system. That way you can avoid any heat loss to the turbine as much as possible during cold start to heat the catalyst faster. Then find some way to eliminate as much as possible cold start enrichment to light off the catalyst rapidly. Maybe secondary air injection if there's no way to avoid cold start enrichment. Close coupled catalysts in the downpipe are probably necessary. I would also probably swap to EV14s, pick something with the correct spray targeting + dual cone pattern for the intake manifold you're using. EV1 style injectors to pass anything resembling modern emissions requires a very annoying air assisted injector system to break up the droplets at part throttle/idle which still doesn't work that great compared to just having smaller droplets from the injector to begin with. Realistically, you're probably going to be financially ahead if you just pay the fines instead. Or don't drive it into the city center. There's a reason why Nissan never bothered to even attempt certifying an RB for CA/US emissions. The VG30 needed external EGR on top of NVCS to pass in the 90s. Doing all of this work is also distinctly expensive and you're going to struggle to find anyone who is remotely interested in helping. 
    • I remember those, people use to steal them to make bongs.....
×
×
  • Create New...