Bnr34 Setup Critique Please

[PSI-FED]

Hey guys im currently sourcing the parts for my setup on my 34R hoping to hit anywhere between 300-330awkw.

Currently looking to buy:

* 2860-7's (Did look at the -5's but for the power figures im aiming for it would be a waste imo and im also looking to build a streetable machine so went with the -7s)

* Exhaust (Heard theres no point doing the dumps so front pipe + high flow cat + catback is what ive got planned. Still unsure weather to buy a jap brand or get it fabricated at an exhaust shop)

* Apexi PowerFC

* Air Flow Meters (had a look at the nismo ones and their rated at 450ps which is ~330kw and nearing the top of my setup. Any recomendations?)

* Bosch 040 or 044 (Still undecided. I want the 040 as its a intank setup and i can easily rig it up at home without messing around too much although not sure if it will be ok for my power goals?)

* Sard 700cc (Should be ok without getting maxed out at my power goal?)

* N1 Oil pump (Do i really need this for what is mainly a street vehicle?)

* HKS Cam gears (ex and in)

* HKS SQV BOV (once again im aware their not needed but i heard a BOV does maintain boost levels through gear changes. should i ditch it and spend the money elsewhere?)

* FMIC (I have heard that the standard 34 front mount is good for 300kw but id rather change it seeing as its an old part now. Any recomendations on cooler size? Also, is the standard piping going to be fine or should i buy a hard piping kit?)

* Boost controller (electronic - still undecided)

If anyone has any comments or suggestions please let me know. Cheers

Edited April 12, 2011 by PSI-FED

[pistol-pete]

swap the -7s for -9s (theyre basically an updated more efficient version)

keep stock cooler

keep standard bovs

[paulR32gtr]

- Yep -9's as above

- AFM's yep Nismo

- Nismo in-tank fuel pump, drops in and cranks

- Don't worry about oil pump unless you are pulling the engine out and rebuilding with all oil control mods

- I would go with the Tomei cam gears, or get your standard ones modified

- Don't change BOV, GTR BOV's are excellent to begin with

- FMIC is fine for that power level, standard piping is great

- Boost controller - have a search there was a thread recently

[R31Nismoid]

- Yep -9's as above

- AFM's yep Nismo

- Nismo in-tank fuel pump, drops in and cranks

- Don't worry about oil pump unless you are pulling the engine out and rebuilding with all oil control mods

- I would go with the Tomei cam gears, or get your standard ones modified

- Don't change BOV, GTR BOV's are excellent to begin with

- FMIC is fine for that power level, standard piping is great

- Boost controller - have a search there was a thread recently

+1 to this. Exactly what I'd have said.

Although only point - cam gears. To save coin just get the stock ones modded to be adjustable. Half the price of jap brand name gear. Plus you can't see em with the timing cover on anyway

[choyda]

As for the ECU, check the total price for the PowerFC + AFM's vs the price of a Vipec Plug-in (MAP sensor). The Vipec is a lot more flexible if you want more power down track and a lot of tuners can tune them now. I was also told by my tuner to look at non-jap injectors (like Siemens or Injector dynamics), can't remember why though. Have you changed your coil packs yet?

[PSI-FED]

Thanks for the quick results guys appreciate the help.

The main reason for the PowerFC as opposed to the vispec is the fact that its going to be a 100% street driven car and trying to make it look as standard as possible. The second they open the bonnet first thing they look for is unenclosed pods and If they dont find that they look at your AFM's trying to figure out weather your running an aftermarket ECU or not which can land you in big sh*t.

Coil packs havnt been changed seeing as car hasnt arrived in the country yet xD im just trying to get all my parts sourced/stocked cause i get the feeling that im going to get bored very very quikcly from a stock R lol..

A question also in regards to the -9's: id imagine them to be pretty responsive but hows the punch mid end and up high like?

[R31Nismoid]

Great. Mid range is very strong but they do run outta puff a bit around 7000-7500 as torque falls away. Still though they are on around 3500rpm which gives you a massive band to work with and doesn't leave you pushing 8000rpm all the time which isn't a bad thing either.

[Moodles2]

* 2860-7's - Personally i went with -9s, an updated more efficient design (just look at the smoothness of the -9 compressor map versus the chaotic -7 compressor map on the garrett website)

* Exhaust - R34 stock dumps are decent, I would stick with them too. Front pipe with 2x 60mm (stock dumps) to 80mm (3"), metal highflow cat with 5" body and 3" ends and a 3" catback

* Air Flow Meters - Nismo units are 350hp each, so as a pair they can support 775 odd HP.

* Bosch 040 or 044 - Depending on the age and condition of your stock pump, it might be a better choice than a 040 (especially if stock pump is rewired to alternator voltage)

* Sard 700cc - Plenty big, someone has said they can support 350kw on E85 (20-30% more flow than 98)

* N1 Oil pump - Keep the stock pump, if you want peace of mind go with billet gears. Don't bother with a higher flowing pump if the sump capacity isn't being upgraded as well.

* HKS Cam gears - Just modify the existing stock gears, cheaper and hidden under the timing cover.

* HKS SQV BOV - The only reason to go with an aftermarket BOV is to make space (for an oil cooler) where the twin stock BOVs take up in the driver vent, otherwise it's pointless to change them.

* FMIC - Stock is fine for 350kw

* Boost controller - Personal choice really, adjustable actuators and using an EBC to get to the desired boost level is the most ideal setup.

[bored33]

What about your budget? If you change the turbo manifolds and replace your piping with after market gear it does help with the air flow and makes a difference in response plus the induction sound is crazy. Downfall is that it can be expensive which is why I asked what your budget is like.

I'm still looking for manifolds which are around the $1,000 mark (someone is selling on the forums for $900 from Tomei). I bought 115mm thick cooler with piping kit for $800 (Greddy cooler and piping - figured if I'm changing the piping I may as well upgrade cooler). Greddy intake kit cost me $1,500.

You may as well change dump pipes since you will be bringing the turbos out anyways.

[R31Nismoid]

I'm still looking for manifolds which are around the $1,000 mark (someone is selling on the forums for $900 from Tomei).

Or 950 - what im selling mine at. They are brand new, come with gaskets/heat wrap etc

[SiR_RB]

r34 gtr dump pipes are perfect for that power/turbos

[PSI-FED]

What about your budget? If you change the turbo manifolds and replace your piping with after market gear it does help with the air flow and makes a difference in response plus the induction sound is crazy. Downfall is that it can be expensive which is why I asked what your budget is like.

I think budget and GTR shouldnt be put in the same sentence :L

Or 950 - what im selling mine at. They are brand new, come with gaskets/heat wrap etc

Why are you selling up for? Ive heard these manifolds help midrange come on slightly more harder but i cant comment as i havnt had any experience with them. I am aware that the standard manifold has no problem doing its job, are the benefits of changing them justified by the cost?

[MrStabby]

Forget about the N1 oil pump. Its just not worth doing unless you're rebuilding the motor and making the other mods that are required to complement it. On its own it will be more dangerous than the standard pump.

Get new actuators if you get -9s. -7s come with new actuators and all up will be about $400 cheaper than -9s, but wont make the same max power as the -9s.

IIRC the Vipec PCB fits in the factory ECU case, so is stealthy that way and you could keep the AFMs and wiring - you dont HAVE to remove them. Otherwise you could run Nistune, but "BNCR34 Skyline requires BNR32 RB26DETT ECU, O2 sensors and CAS wiring modifications".

[femno]

* 2860-7's GOOD

* Exhaust THE R34 ITEMS ARE BETTER THAN MOST AFTERMARKET DUMPS

* Apexi PowerFC GOOD

* Air Flow Meters NISMO GOOD

* Bosch 040 GOOD

* Sard 700cc GOOD

* N1 Oil pump NO!

* HKS Cam gears NO NEED FOR $$$ JAP ONES GET CHEAPY ONES AND REPLACE THE BOLTS, JUST AS GOOD.

* HKS SQV BOV NO! STANDARD BOVS OPEN ALOT AND KEEP THE TURBOS SPINNING WHICH IS BETTER FOR BOOST TRANSIENT RESPONSE. THEYLL HOLD THE POWER NO WORRIES.

* FMIC I WOULD JUST HAVE THE STD ONE PROFESSIONALLY CLEANED

* Boost controller CANNOT RECOMMEND BLITZ DUAL SBC HIGHLY ENOUGH. SINGLE SOLENOID ONES ARE SHIT.