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Drift Gauges with AFR, Boost & Oil Pressure comes with all wiring, sensors and fittings $120

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Stagea M35 wheels 17x7 +40 tyres are worn out on outside edge good for skids. $150

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R33 parts

Turbo heat sheild $20

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Wiper & Indicator stalk $50

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Wiper Motor $40

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Handbrake $40

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ABS unit $100

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SRS Steering whell clock $50

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SRS airbag ECU $50

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SRS airbag passenger $120

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Power steering unit $100

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Stock dump pipe $15

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Aircon fan $60

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Radiator fan with hub $100

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intercooler pipe $20

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intercooler pipe $20

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Series 2 dash $70

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cluster surround $40

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glovebox $40

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Steering coloum bottom cover $20

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Aircon condensor $70

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R33 GTR V spec Aircon condensor $70

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R33 series 3 GTR steering wheel red stitching $200

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R33 boost solenoid $50

2 X wiper amplifiers $20 each.

Can pick up near Golden Grove in SA or I can post

PM me or Brad 0427999093

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R the gauges in working order. What's the best price you can do with postage to melb 3021

Yes the gauges worked before I took them out. How about I include postage in the price?

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will that s2/3 cluster surround fit/bolt straight into a s1 r33 gtr? same with that r33 gtr s3 steering wheel?

I know the cluster surround will fit and the steering wheel would have the same slpine. I dont know if being an airbag wheel if it had more under the base. But looking at the S1 S2 steering colums with the stalks they all look the same to me.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hey Brad,

Is the "Series 2 dash $70" still available?

Yes Abe and its in really good condition.

real keen on the srs clock spring, how much with postage to cooma nsw 2630?

cheers

Yeah I can post it for $60 inc postage

Gauges still avalible??

Yes I can post them to you for free

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    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
    • As well as being risky WRT tipping off anyway. Yeah, I wouldn't expect it to move. Just measure from the rear one to the front one on the good side, then measure that same length on the wrecked side. You will find the notches in the pinchweld, and the jacking pad. Just spray a spot of marker paint or something there.
    • but any other area than the bulge you are talking about will just cave in then? The front driver side is pretty bent so I don't know if that will work the way it is now. I can still kinda make out where that bulge is/was but it looks like the position of it also changed due to all the mistreatment? Hard to tell
    • Absolutely. Look very closely at the photo (of yours) that I took my second snip of. See how the sill is thicker material right behind the pinchweld, where the two notches are? That is the factory reinforced area for lifting. That pad is supposed to carry the weight. The factory jack (go look at it, and how it interfaces with the car at the pinchweld) shows you exactly how the load is carried from the car to the jack to the ground.
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