Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Make: Nissan

Model: Skyline HCR32

Year: 1993

Color: Black

Engine/Driveline:

Kakimoto Regu 06&R Catback

HPI front pipe

Jjr dump pipe

High flow cat

Drift Panel Filter

Splitfire coilpacks

ASI 52mm alloy radiator

GReddy Profec B spec II (13psi)

FMIC kit

Front lip

Welded r200 diff

Interior/gauges

Nismo gear shift knob

Deep dish steering wheel

Suspension & Brakes:

ISC N1 Coilovers

Cusco castor rods

Kazama tie rod ends

Jjr front upper camber arms

R33 Front Lca's

Power spirit rear camber arms

Hicas lock bar + all hicas line removed

alloy subframe bushes

Dba cross drilled and slotted front disc's

Dba vented rear disc's

Bendix ultimate pads F&R

Chassis & Clutch:

Excedy HD clutch

Nismo reinforced clutch pedal bracket

GTR front strut brace

Cusco rear strut brace

Wheels & Tyres:

Gramlights 57D 17x9 +22

F Kumho Ku36 235/45R17

Gt radial 235/45R17

picked this up a few months back with some good plans for it and here is a quick run down on the progress so far.

Took it for a good run out to dubbo with the missus to see the zoo as soon as i got it....took some photos on panorama at bathurst..

DUBBO002.jpg

DUBBO014.jpg

DUBBO013.jpg[/b]

after returning from dubbo i instlled a Greddy Profec B spec II and a FMIC

skyline003.jpg

running 13psi through it at the moment, does need to be properly set up but im awaiting a few more parts until then..

added some more better quality pics of the exhaust and wheels

IMG_0119.jpg

IMG_0114.jpg

IMG_0121.jpg

with my chunky sidewalled Kumho put the wheel through the gaurd so needed a new one...got that sorted quick

IMG_0381final.jpg

IMG_0391final.jpg

next up was a diff weld..my standard diff was terrible and would single leg alot...so i fixed it

IMG_0381final.jpg

IMG_0391final.jpg

next i fitted my aero bunnings lip...

Bar off

IMG_0229.jpg

up close

IMG_0231.jpg

finished product

IMG_0249final.jpg

thats how it stands ATM..

i have currently a list of things waiting to go on...

*nismo Power brace

*oil pressure, temp and water temp guages.

*looking at my turbo options

* 550cc injectors

*power FC

ill keep the updates flowing

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360639-kyles-r32-gtst-build/
Share on other sites

hey mate

nice clean ride and i like the gramlights for somthing different. they suit it.

im a big fan of the garden edging. on one of the bars i used it on i added some brackets to kick the rear out to blen in with the wheels a little.

example

DSC03210.jpg

yeha everyone loves the bunnings lip.....so cheap for the results it is great....

i like the bracket idea DJrift....as they do pull in quite a bit......i guess it shows the wheel width of a bit....

plans for the car is to be of a all rounder.....i really really enjoy drifting so that will be the main focus.......70% drift, 29% circuit 1% drag..

ill only go to the drags with a few friends for some fun....i would love to slide it every oppurtunity i get......

little update

ok lowered it a little more in the front.....about 2 cms...not much....but it was just a trial so i know how much adjustment on the coilover gives me how much more low in regards to body moving downward....

here are some quick pics...

big updates coming....

IMG_0343final.jpg

IMG_0360finalJPG.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

It's running well. Needs injectors and PFC installed and tuned. Is gangsta now. On actuator boost it runs better then the standard turbo on 14psi.

Is fun.

The modified water line is a bit dodgy ATM. Had to cut the original water line and clamp the new flexible line to it. Needs a flare.

It's running well. Needs injectors and PFC installed and tuned. Is gangsta now. On actuator boost it runs better then the standard turbo on 14psi.

Is fun.

The modified water line is a bit dodgy ATM. Had to cut the original water line and clamp the new flexible line to it. Needs a flare.

Have a look at Nistune...Ap-Engineering RB20 PFC's are pretty rare these days

thanks man....

painted some things in teh bay today, to generally clean it up.... was going to do the fuel pump but im a bit lazy....will do that a weekend im off work.....

painted slu...i mean strut brace...(GTR item, horrible red, so fixed that) also my cooler core and piping got a little lick of paint....

here are a few pictures

IMG_0640.jpg

IMG_0635.jpg

IMG_0630.jpg

Edited by XkyleX
  • 2 months later...

Alright haven't updated in a little bit.

Sold a few bits and pieces off. Including PFC, AFM and injectors. Needed the money for a overseas trip me and my girl are going on.

On another note. Car is booked for unigroup this coming Friday. For a timing and boost tune.

If your interested in buying my gram lights get at me as I'm currency considering selling them and getting some r33 GTR wheels.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...