Rear Suspension Freshen Up

[simpletool]

I want to replace most of the little the rear suspension bushes. All the ones I haven't done yet, which there are still PLENTY.

This is because for the past 2 years I have had an annoying muffled rattle rattle every time my rear suspension goes over a ripple or tiny bump. It doesn't do it over large bumps or anything, it's most annoying over little ripples (which are EVERYWHERE in Sydney).

I have done these in the last few years:

HICAS removed

SK suspension kit

front camber bushes & caster bushes

Pineapples

front/Rear sway bar and links

Steering rack mount

I can only imagine the stock rubber are completely shagged and I want to replace them. Preferably with NISMO items rather than urethane. Can anyone help me here with where to go? What parts they have sourced? Someone who has done this before?

How to do this without dealing with rip off merchants and mechanics who have no idea?

I have the money for this project, I've wanted to do it for ages but after dealing with various suspension places and mechanics in general I just want to go somewhere that are competent.

Edited April 13, 2011 by simpletool

[simpletool]

Anybody put either Nismo or poly bushes in the control arms/A-arms in the rear?

Any comments?

I have sourced the parts but Nismo is about twice the price of poly.

[R TUNE]

I used the nolerthane brand bushes in my 31. Was defently worth the $600 (their abouts) for the lot. did cost me $400 from memory to get the press ones in as some were a barsted and had to be cut out.

MY advise would be do the ones you cant then take the arms only to mech and get them to change them over and u put them back in.

also the benifit is defently worth it.

[Duncan]

I wouldn't bother with the nismo bushes - they are rubber and expensive. either new nissan ones, or I would suggest urethane everywhere.

[Risking]

Like Duncan I'd suggest urethane bushes throughout.

If not installed correctly they can be noisy, when done right they work fine and have enough compliance to provide a nice ride.

Some of the rear bushes do need to be cut out of the factory arm which can be a pain but once it's done the future bush changes are simple.

[boostn0199]

If you want an easy way to get them out just get the blow torch out burn the rubber out then from the heat you can bang out the outer sleeve with a socket or something came out with two hits of the hammer rather than spending ages cutting. I replaced all my rears with the whiteline plus bushes and its a different car now.

[blk94r33]

If you want an easy way to get them out just get the blow torch out burn the rubber out then from the heat you can bang out the outer sleeve with a socket or something came out with two hits of the hammer rather than spending ages cutting. I replaced all my rears with the whiteline plus bushes and its a different car now.

Heating suspension components, not such a good idea...

You're better off using a air-hacksaw or manual one to cut through the rubber and steel outer, then remove them with an air chisel. Might sound rough, but works a treat, and changing the rear-upper arm bushes is a fair pain to do manually without decent equipment or portable press.

[simpletool]

OK thanks guys. I just want to at least locate the most annoying noise first. I don't want to change all the bushes and find out it was something else...like the pump in the tank rattling.

[boostn0199]

Heating suspension components, not such a good idea...

You're better off using a air-hacksaw or manual one to cut through the rubber and steel outer, then remove them with an air chisel. Might sound rough, but works a treat, and changing the rear-upper arm bushes is a fair pain to do manually without decent equipment or portable press.

There is nothing wrong with removing the part and heating it up with a blow torch, we are not talking temps like you would get from an oxy. The only thing would be to watch out for other bushes and ball joints but if your taking them out it doesnt matter.

[blk94r33]

There is nothing wrong with removing the part and heating it up with a blow torch, we are not talking temps like you would get from an oxy. The only thing would be to watch out for other bushes and ball joints but if your taking them out it doesnt matter.

http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-67259066.html

http://forum.roadfly.com/threads/1300173-Heating-Suspension-Parts

http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a4-s4-forum-b5-chassis/76460-seized-track-rod.html

http://www.eurodrivers.ca/forums/showthread.php?19898-This-pinch-bolt-is-going-poorly

http://www.lada.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?p=3357&sid=c626a621f688c618d650387c2df9247f

http://www.zcar.com/84-89_tech_discussion_forum/what_should_i_use_burn_my_bushings_739767.15.html

[boostn0199]

Yeah like I said your not using an oxy to get it hot to the point where it can alter its shapes or properties your just getting it hot enough with a torch to get the particles moving so you can hit out the outer sleeve. How do you think nissan had put in those standard bushes? they were heat dropped in not pressed. If your talking about shockers and components like that it different story youd never put any heat on them but control arms and hubs little bit of heat to loosen it up wont do any harm.

[nobby]

Yeah like I said your not using an oxy to get it hot to the point where it can alter its shapes or properties your just getting it hot enough with a torch to get the particles moving so you can hit out the outer sleeve. How do you think nissan had put in those standard bushes? they were heat dropped in not pressed. If your talking about shockers and components like that it different story youd never put any heat on them but control arms and hubs little bit of heat to loosen it up wont do any harm.

Did you read the links at all that were given, or have you just made up your mind. going anywhere near any material with heat or cold changes things, not my law try Einstine, remember hearing something like, every action has >>>>>. your playing with peoples lives.

And as for poly or rubber, check any 4x4 forum and you will see RUBBER is king hands down.

This form of usage has been put through it passes for alot longer than regular cars, and rubber is the superiour option, its just that poly is cheaper and usually easyer to replace once orginal rubber has been removed, but dosn't last anywhere aslong as rubber so cheaper realy dosn't matter.

The difference is poly is alot stiffer and realy tightens things up nicely at first an you'll love how it handles, but the ride will also be harsher, and that law every action comes into play here because they flex less means they wear out quicker too.

Now if your going near a track then poly may be a good option as to stiffen it up but you'll need to replace them more often. lots of pros and cons I'm afraid. hope this helps.

[simpletool]

Had another play around with the wheel off and bugger me if I can't find anything play at all in the connecting arms (although adding 1g and 1 tonne of weight may well change that). The rattle is still there and I'm thinking it is either the king pin at the bottom or the shock mounts at the body at the top. Meh...I'll try replacing the top shock mounts.

Edited May 7, 2011 by simpletool

[nobby]

Had another play around with the wheel off and bugger me if I can't find anything play at all in the connecting arms (although adding 1g and 1 tonne of weight may well change that). The rattle is still there and I'm thinking it is either the king pin at the bottom or the shock mounts at the body at the top. Meh...I'll try replacing the top shock mounts.

If it's the shock mts,the you should be able to see play at top mt or try taking vechile weight partialy of the ground and recheck even try moving/shacking it "safely", you should be able to see/feel mts move and there would be your rattle.

If it's the mts,the wear and tear is a good indercation the shocks are worn out anyway so just replaceing shock rubbers seems underdone, but its your car.

But hey it could still be something else you hearing, or both so have a good look before you think youve got it solved.

[simpletool]

Well it seems to be the bottom mount of the bilstein shocks against the mounting post. The inner metal tube of the bilstein is slightly larger than the post it mounts on. I noticed there was some slight play there and maybe around .4 or .5mm gap. I admit I've never put any grease on the posts. So I put one layer of PVC tape around the post and then greased it good and installed. Noise is mostly gone, possibly needs a touch more tape.

I also replaced the top rubber bush in the sandwich mount with urethane. I figure this will help rebound response a little.

Everything else seems in good working order - maybe the only slight rattle left is the boot mechanism. I probably just need a louder exhaust.

[nobby]

If it's the lower shock mt, any movment here will wear (out of round) the mt and needs greater attention than a bit of tape and grease.

the tape and grease will last about 2 min anyway.

the grease will disolve glue on tape, and the cars weight will crush/cut tape.

the mt isn't replaceable is it, so to not fix it properly will only continue problem further.

AND REMEMBER this is the point where all the weight of that corner is put alot of stress here, snap this mt and !!!!, lets not go there hay.

[simpletool]

I agree that for sure that PVC tape isn't the best solution, I mainly put it there to see if that was the problem. I'd expect it to get crushed but at least I've isolated the problem, I'll see when the noise comes back. The mount on the car appeared to be in good condition as I cleaned and inspected it before going any further (obviously it could be slightly non-round but I would expect the shock mount to be weaker and therefore deform first).

The issue appears to be that the bilsteins have too large mount holes (many posts about this on others cars with bilsteins, BMW especially).

I think the fix might be urethane mount bushes without the inner metal sleeve.