Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am after some guildance. Trying to decide what spring rate and sway bar to go for.

I am changing out my mines Ohlins for some custom coilovers specs are;

48mm valve monotube

External resevoir with sep rebound and compression adj, 800n range

Dual Springs(helper spring)

Steel bottom mounts

The car;

R33 GTR

RB32DETT(tad heavier in the front)

1590kg

Full Slicks 18x270

500awkw

Currenty has std sway bars but will upgrade to reduce body roll rather than a heavier spring.

Front coil?

Rear coil?

Front Sway?

Rear Sway?

Matt

Any idea what brand and valving you will be using in the shocks??

Really who ever is doing the custom shocks should be valving them and recommending a spring rate to get you in the ball park.

I'd be trying something between an 8.5-9 front and a 6-7 rear to begin with. Depending how sensitive you are to the car you may go up or down from there.

I'd also be getting a set of selby or similar bars locally. I like to keep to factory size +2mm if needed. Rather shorten the bar up to get use from it as opposed to going larger and increasing the weight.

No brand, 48mm mono valve. I asked for bilstein style valves 50/50

Have been looking at the Whiteline 24mm sway bars with Spherical mounts.

8.5-9 front and 6-7 rear looks good

Should I also look at a roll center adjustment Like these?

Matt

If you are not lowering the car alot (well you shouldnt as it will compromise suspension stroke), then you wouldn't need RCAs, and the only RCAs that work is the Moonface ones, all others are just for looks

Edited by ichi-go

All roll center adjusters are rubbish including those moon face ones.

Have a search for rollcenter in this section.

I've covered it many many times for various people in depth and basically.

To correct roll centers and all geometry with a lowered car you need to move more than the lower control arm like moonface and others do.

All roll center adjusters are rubbish including those moon face ones.

Have a search for rollcenter in this section.

I've covered it many many times for various people in depth and basically.

To correct roll centers and all geometry with a lowered car you need to move more than the lower control arm like moonface and others do.

Couldn't find anything on Roll Center??

All roll center adjusters are rubbish including those moon face ones.

Have a search for rollcenter in this section.

I've covered it many many times for various people in depth and basically.

To correct roll centers and all geometry with a lowered car you need to move more than the lower control arm like moonface and others do.

I still have the piece of paper to show this!

So Brad, you don't think getting the moonface rca's would help with bump steer either as they claim they do?

I'm undecided with whether to get moonface rca's or just oem replacement rod ends....

sorry for thread hijack :blush:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's f**ked up. I'd guess it's more likely that you have an entire S13 subframe in there. Does it still have HICAS mounting points? Seeing as it is quite possible that yours is the only such converted car in the world, you'll probably struggle to find someone who can tell you from direct experience. 'Twere I you, I'd be looking for 4 stud Skyline rear brakes and convert back. At a minimum. Preferably go find all the stuff you need to put it back to 5 stud (assuming you're happy to change wheels) and upgrade to some decent brakes. You don't even need much stock stuff. Don't need calipers or rotors, as you can go fully aftermarket. Just needs hubs and the other bits and bobs that are different to what you have now.
    • The engine has nothing to do with it. The physical space behind the headlight is the limiting factor. And the height. The height of the NS70 is the same as stock. So the clamp bar across the top goes on nice. The battery tray is big enough for it to sit on. The X is for extra capacity - it has even more lead in it than the non-X NS70. Heavy f**ker. But it's not a track car, so I will suffer a couple of extra kg. In the case of the R34, maybe the physical space there is not as deep (forward-backward, not up down). Hence why they say the 60 is the biggest. But I would never trust a catalogue to tell me what will fit. I have the car. I have the existing battery. I have the tape measure. I have the dimensions of all the available batteries. I find the biggest box that will go in. (With the right terminals in the right places, of course).  
    • Hello! I have been having a hard time finding the answer to this question… I have a R32 GTS-T Sedan than has been 4 lug swapped using S13 hubs, rotors, and brakes. The front has also been converted to S13 suspension.    When the swap was completed, the handbrake cables were never hooked up, as the S13 rear calipers are the “handbrake”, and not the typical drum on rotor that the R chassis are. Does anyone know handbrake cables that will work for this conversion? I’d like to not use a hydraulic handbrake and stick with the traditional cable style. My original thoughts were to go with S14 cables and try to make them work, since I’m pretty sure S13 cables will be too short.    Any help would be appreciated!
    • I did some research, considering you have a neo engine, how is that battery compatible? I checked centuries website and super cheap and says it's not compatible. Only this full size one is. https://www.centurybatteries.com.au/products/ns60-mf
    • No, lets be honest here. I went to Winton and did a track day, for all the mods and V8 power and craziness I posted up a time that a K24 stock motor Honda Accord can do on the same tyres (narrower, too) 250kw and learning how to drive the f**kin thing is the sweet spot.
×
×
  • Create New...