Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i hammered in the rear restrictor about 20mm then filled it to the top of the block with that liquid metal stuff you mix together with your fingers.

1.5 restrictor at the front and i brazed up the vct feed and drilled it to 1.5mm

n1 pump. I had problems on the dyno with oil blowing out the rocker breathers and i figured i had a bit of blowby and the oil could not drain back so i just pulled out the dipstick and have had no problems!

  • 1 month later...

Please don't use the standard restrictors.

I've had 3 sets of restrictors in mine. - R32 RB25DE Head.

  1. Standard (over 5500rpm = filled catch can)
  2. blocked rear with a 1.5mm front (not enough oil on start up)
  3. and finally 2 x 1.3mm which is perfect.

RB25det - blocked rear and a 1.5mm is apparently ok. Others may be able to share their cold start storys with the same setup.

The blocked rear and 1.5mm up front was fine once warm but cold starts I could hear something knocking about up top rear on the exhaust side - coincidentally that's the furthest away from the front 1.5mm restrictor.

With the 2 x 1.3mm all noises disappeared and all sounds sweet again. Also - no catch can filling either.

  • 4 weeks later...

hey guys i have a question, i have rb30et bottom end with s1 r33 rb25 head, thinking of running the stock rb30et oil pump

and most of the time i will be using it on the track. what oil restrictors would i need to use/get if any at all?

sorry for the n00bness :worship:

Please don't use the standard restrictors.

I've had 3 sets of restrictors in mine. - R32 RB25DE Head.

  1. Standard (over 5500rpm = filled catch can)
  2. blocked rear with a 1.5mm front (not enough oil on start up)
  3. and finally 2 x 1.3mm which is perfect.

RB25det - blocked rear and a 1.5mm is apparently ok. Others may be able to share their cold start storys with the same setup.

The blocked rear and 1.5mm up front was fine once warm but cold starts I could hear something knocking about up top rear on the exhaust side - coincidentally that's the furthest away from the front 1.5mm restrictor.

With the 2 x 1.3mm all noises disappeared and all sounds sweet again. Also - no catch can filling either.

+1 for using two 1.3mm restrictors.

Just using one 1.5mm might be ok for a solid lifter setup.

my setup with 2x 1.5mm was still pumping way too much oil to the head as soon as you took it past 6000. its just been changed to 1x 1.5mm and 1x 1mm with a couple extra oil drains directly to the sump for good measure.

will see how it goes this time round.

1x 1.5mm is not enough for the hydraulic lifters (for solids sure that will work), 2x 1mm can be hit and miss, works for some gives lots of lifter noise for others.

when i brought my oil restrictors i just brought 2 blanks, one of which im drilling out to 1.5mm. iv already put the blank in ontop of the rear oil restrictor and its nice tight fit

I'm getting a adjustable feed for my 25/30 oil control problem, it is externally adjustable and will be set so when at high rpm the oil will be high enough for cooling and lubrication but will not overflow, by rights this should still see enough oil at low rpm to feed my lifters.

With my 2 head drains and the drain from the can to the sump hopefully the oil is going to stay in the motor.

Hopefully.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have multiple bottles in a shed that gets hot, and I'm in SEQ, so it's humid. Maybe we test their theory... Anyone have a system to accurately measure moisture content in oil?
    • Yeah, that and throwing away opened, part used, closed back up bottles has got to be bullshit. Brake fluid sits in not-very-well sealed master cylinder reservoirs for literal years and keeps working (albeit we know we should flush it every couple of years - it actually still works). Anything kept in a bottle in the shed with a tightly capped lid has got to be a million times better than what has been in the car for the same length of time.
    • Wait, they're claiming UNOPENED fluid has a shelf life of only 18 months?
    • The plan is to get it out of the shed. The reality may fall some way short. But hope is as cheap as despair as they say. Will go a wide band I think. The coils are ok so maybe I’ll miss the $1500 on the R35 coils etc. Im still on the fence about a trigger kit. The HKS one looks nice ($1k) - not sure how it works with the Link or if Link prefer something else. Oil pressure is fine so I’m not that concerned there. Fuel pressure I’ll have a think about. The IAT got changed for the Link anyway as the old RB26 ones were really slow reacting and pretty poor. The Power FC just worked. Wasn’t terribly refined but it just worked. Probably made a mistake replacing it really. E85 isn’t available locally - it is 100+ kms away which puts it in the too hard basket. Lastly I understand Tunecorp in Perth are pretty good so was probably going there.   As for turbos is there are new age -5 drop in replacement? Turbos have come a long way in 20 years, everyone is big single which is fair enough but I prefer the old school complication of twins. Wasn’t chasing more power (well, not much more) but more efficiency would be ok.
    • I thought I'd share this....the shell is non genuine but they found or built a lot of the genuine parts. Plus, it is by far the best colour scheme of those years, the winfield once was particularly shit https://www.v8sleuth.com.au/written-off-inaugural-godzilla-recreated/
×
×
  • Create New...