Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just got defected today driving my uncomplied unregisted r32 gtr from the mechanics back to my house on a permit.

I had no front bar because it was at the crash repairs getting some cracks fixed, and whilst i was driving it home my front right indicator fell off unknowingly.

the officer deamed the car unroadworthy and defected me. the car will be getting complied sometime in the near future maybe 3-6 months.

will this defect have to be removed (rectified) before i go to get complied or when its getting complied or after? or is it just nothing to worry about?

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/361051-defect-on-permit/
Share on other sites

There is a dedicated defect thread in this forum for questions like these. Otherwise we'll have hundreds of defect threads from various posters.

Expect this thread to be locked and/or removed.

You'll find your answer in the defect thread.

:thumbsup:

I wouldn't worry too much - I know this isnt the exact same situation but me and a mate of mine both took our R32's through Regency around the same time for a RB25DET conversion, his was defected, mine was not. I don't believe there was any difference at all in how the cars were checked and the owners treated.

Get the defect notice signed off once you go through so you can hand it into the rego office to get rego for your car.

You might have to pay more for it though as it's meant to be a different type of inspection to your ID one to gain rego.

Easy done though.

I would have laughed at the cop, as the car is uncomplied it is, and always was not compliant with ADR's and therefore is defectable. But as the car has to be complied you are in effect clearing the defect when you get it complied, just rip the sticker off, it means nothing in this case.

I would have laughed at the cop, as the car is uncomplied it is, and always was not compliant with ADR's and therefore is defectable. But as the car has to be complied you are in effect clearing the defect when you get it complied, just rip the sticker off, it means nothing in this case.

true.... but leave the sticker. its not worth the immenant fine that you would get

I would have laughed at the cop, as the car is uncomplied it is, and always was not compliant with ADR's and therefore is defectable. But as the car has to be complied you are in effect clearing the defect when you get it complied, just rip the sticker off, it means nothing in this case.

Rip the sticker off if you never plan on regoing the car but leave it on if you do plan on getting rego.

They would have defected the vin number of the car so he would need to get it cleared off the system so he would need to get his defect paper work sorted at the same time and removing the sticker wouldn't be a good idea haha.

as the car hasn't been complied, there is no VIN in the system. The VIN the car will end up with will be an 1MPORT xxx xxxx VIN which the car hasn't got yet.

Anyhow there is no harm in leaving the sticker on but i still would have laughed at the copper.

as the car hasn't been complied, there is no VIN in the system. The VIN the car will end up with will be an 1MPORT xxx xxxx VIN which the car hasn't got yet.

Anyhow there is no harm in leaving the sticker on but i still would have laughed at the copper.

Those VIN numbers were issued with tho old Import scheme, It will be given a VIN, 6U90 - then your chassis no, more Zeros added to to take it up to 17 digits if required.

Those VIN numbers were issued with tho old Import scheme, It will be given a VIN, 6U90 - then your chassis no, more Zeros added to to take it up to 17 digits if required.

so if my vin/chassis numbers are in the system with a defect to there name, when they add onto the numbers for compliance it wont show that it has a defect on it when i go to get rego?

Thanks.

so if my vin/chassis numbers are in the system with a defect to there name, when they add onto the numbers for compliance it wont show that it has a defect on it when i go to get rego?

Thanks.

Im pretty sure when you take the car in for inspection, it wont be "on the system" yet as a car on the road. Doing the roadworthy to get rego is clearing it at the same time also, so once inspected, they would then add you and at the same time it would be cleared of any defect.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...