Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I need to remove my EBC to get through the vehicle inspection station.

I'm doing it on an R33 GTS-T, and i just need to know what vacuum lines to disconnect and what do i replace them with!

Any help is appreciated

Thanks

Need to remove the line going to your ebc and fit the standard boost solenoid in there. You will see your ebc tapped in between some vacuum and your wastegate. Get rid of that and put your boost solenoid in place.

Step 1. Pop bonnet

Step 2. Find boost controller solenoid

Step 3. Locate line going from actuator into boost controller solenoid and line going from boost controller solenoid into intercooler piping.

Step 4. Disconnect lines and connect line directly from actuator into intercooler piping (essentially by passing the solenoid).

Step 5. Remove boost controller solenoid - will have wiring going from it into the cabin of the car.

Step 6. Remove all evidence of boost controller inside cabin.

Step 1. Pop bonnet

Step 2. Find boost controller solenoid

Step 3. Locate line going from actuator into boost controller solenoid and line going from boost controller solenoid into intercooler piping.

Step 4. Disconnect lines and connect line directly from actuator into intercooler piping (essentially by passing the solenoid).

Step 5. Remove boost controller solenoid - will have wiring going from it into the cabin of the car.

Step 6. Remove all evidence of boost controller inside cabin.

Won't this be relying on the wastegate spring to control boost? If so he should take it easy while driving it, those old springs and wastegates get tired.

That is true but judging by my current car, I wouldn't rely too heavily on it. My spring seems a little sticky and my wastegate is leaking. Switching my boost controller off(0%) I had boost hit about 12psi.

Best advice is remove what you need to, have it tested then put it back on. Drive the car easily though.

Well that doesn't really make sense. A boost controller stops air from going to the actuator by bleeding it to atmosphere. This in turn allows the wastegate to be shut for longer and therefore make more boost.

With the boost controller set to doing nothing (off/0%) it will not bleed any air, and therefore it basically acts as though it wasn't even there, ie. running actuator spring pressure.

Hence why you can't run less boost pressure than what the actuator spring can take, there is no way for it to do it.

That is true but judging by my current car, I wouldn't rely too heavily on it. My spring seems a little sticky and my wastegate is leaking. Switching my boost controller off(0%) I had boost hit about 12psi.

Best advice is remove what you need to, have it tested then put it back on. Drive the car easily though.

What boost controller is that?

The only thing I can think of is that with the boost controller still plugged in but set to zero is providing a slight restriction between actuator and boost source. Have you tried bypassing the boost solenoid altogether and taken it for a drive?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Middle seat good for a slab of beer or Esky for a road trip. 2x kids, means 1x free seat lol.
    • So we have most the interior back in, and for the first time with one OEM speaker hooked up. The 31 is running, driving and now tunes!!! Hahaha yet another step for the sub that sat 10m under for two weeks!!! unbelievable really 👌 lots of love work and not giving up on her. Seen so many youngsters part way less, and in way better condition. I’m stubborn, thinking another problem is just a hurdle to overcome, One at a time. IMG_9277.mov
    • That is correct. I'm using a modified ABS ring and a ZF speed sensor on my rear diff for speed input. I'm running a Haltech ecu. 
    • Been busy with the newborn. We originally thought we were going to go for a third, but we're good with two lol. He's starting to actually sleep now so I've had some energy to work on the car. It's been parked away in the garage since late November due to winter.  I went ahead and redid all my head oil drains. I originally had my front and rear head drain going into the same pipe but have since split them up. I also added an Ethanol content sensor to get ready to run E85 this summer. Tossed it on my return line. Sensor sits nicely under my intake manifold.    I also have a lot of parts that came in for my rear end. I'll be swapping over to a 3.3 final drive and doing the GK teck anti squat mod. While the rear subframe is off, I'll also change every bushing. We're planning on buying another house soon with the condition that I get at a minimum a 2 door garage, so I'll wait to have more room for this. Now onto the strange things that recently happened... After changing the lower rad hose (It had been sitting in my cabinet for well over a year and was the last hose I had to replace), I let the car idle in the garage to bleed my coolant. After running for a few minutes, it started missing. Got much worst within a minute or two and then stalled and would not restart. My crank sensor decided to crap itself. No damage, no explanation, just died. I went ahead and replaced it with another ZF sensor but the heavier duty stainless model with a shield. Tossed that in and started right up. Has anyone else seen this? I hate when things fail without cause. Luckily this was a blessing in disguise... This lead me to recheck my timing. It seems I may have had a beer or two the last time I had set my TDC angle as I was off exactly 5 degrees... I miscounted a line haha. I was running 5 degrees less then commanded. It's a little embarrassing but helps explain why my dyno operator seemed to think I should be making more then 478rwkws.        
    • Sharing results from recent Liberty Walk R35 GTR, since they are still considered as somesort of a V36 Skyline. We do them turbos too. This are high flowed SS-1 models with ball bearing conversion done.  Car have managed to pull 485awkws @ 20Psi so far pushing limitations of factory built engine. The build list for R35 GTR enthusiasts as follow : HyperGear high flowed stock turbos in SS1 (G25-660 specs) Custom titanium intake pipes. Vspec performance titanium front pipes. Vspec performance 4" titanium exhaust. Upgrade fuel pumps. 1200cc injectors. Ignition coilpacks Hks intake plenum. Hks intercooler piping. Greddy intercooler. Greddy bovs. Top-secret coolant reservoir. Emtron ecu. Straight E85. Built gear box.  
×
×
  • Create New...