Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know a certain person in this thread that has a few choices of turbos lying around ;)

He's a turbo whore and chops and changes whenever he sees fit.

Said person might even still have his ceramics if you just wanna do a swap.

Btw, inconel compressor + exhaust wheel FTW :P

Haha sure thing - you can try out my super-lag-spec R33 N1 turbos :)

All modern turbs have an iconel comp wheel :P :p Sorry Nick :P

Yep, good idea man...see if you can find a good set, but if not you're much better off going for a set of new (but equivalent) GT2860-7 turbos or their HKS GT-SS equivelant. If you don't mind a tiny bit of more lag go the 2860-9 ones like I did and you will never look back. They're good for around town, but when it comes to the QR straight they will put smile on your dial ;) They are pumping very hard where the ceramics simply run out of puff and rpms.

All day every day 290-320kw with them (on average)

A lot of -7 peeps make around the 280-310kw while the -9 guys will make around 300-330kw or so....bit of an overlap with these two turbos. They're very alike...the -9 is just trimmed up for an extra 30-50hp or so a bit more top end.

HKS is just a bit more expensive and comes with a higher rated actuator in most cases. The ones that come with the -9's will need at least 7mm of preload dialed on to them to make them work well - but I can give ya hand with that when the time comes. (Even with a EBC you will still need to wind on the preload or else the wastegates will open at like 6-8 pounds lol giving you a very lazy set of turbos!)

The -9's are definitely the new -7 if you know what I mean....most peeps I know regret having gone -7 after going in a car with -9's.

The -9's have the pull and lurch of a single turbo....whereas the -7's are often described as being very linear. Depends on what you like I guess.

Haha sure thing - you can try out my super-lag-spec R33 N1 turbos :)

All modern turbs have an iconel EXH wheel :P :P Sorry Nick :P

Fixed :ph34r:

Comp wheels are mostly aluminium or steel.

Forgot to mention, my turbo has the optional Titanium alloy exhaust wheel :P

Wouldn't you guys rather a more responsive turbo? So in this case the -7s would be ideal?

I always thought people went for linear power/greatest area under the curve so correct me if I'm wrong.

Laggier turbos move the power band higher up the rev range and by then the RB26 would be filling the catch can pretty quick.

Fixed :ph34r:

Comp wheels are mostly aluminium or steel.

Forgot to mention, my turbo has the optional Titanium alloy exhaust wheel :P

Wouldn't you guys rather a more responsive turbo? So in this case the -7s would be ideal?

I always thought people went for linear power/greatest area under the curve so correct me if I'm wrong.

Laggier turbos move the power band higher up the rev range and by then the RB26 would be filling the catch can pretty quick.

I'll argue this all day, I've never been a fan of "response" if I had a turbo it'd be the biggest laggiest power delivering piece of gear.

This is why I have a cam that makes no power until 3800 lol

Yeh you're right 180Nick, the more meat under the curve the better. Mine are -9's...you've been in it :)

Some peeps can make these come on almost as early as the stockers which I find quite amazing..

No comment Abomonick :P

...but if I ever have a 3L it will be getting the big single treatment :P

You only have 2?3? gears anyway lol

You stay in your powerband longer especially with that long arse auto diff pinion and crown ratio of yours.

Horses for courses

Response is where it's at for me - which also happens to be where I spend most of my driving 99.99% of the time.

Here's a link for Terry to make up his mind. Has both sides of the fence and no clear winner :D

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/254450-79s-or-5s-garretts/

I have 4 gears with 1-3 being identical to a th400 and also have 3.6 diff gears, hardly moonshot spec! Thank you very much lol

But I also have a 3k stall so it's straight into powah! :devil:

Yeh you're right 180Nick, the more meat under the curve the better. Mine are -9's...you've been in it :)

Some peeps can make these come on almost as early as the stockers which I find quite amazing..

No comment Abomonick :P

...but if I ever have a 3L it will be getting the big single treatment :P

Couldn't really feel any lag simply because I wasn't driving it nor was I looking at the tacho.

I think my comment after being in the driver's seat would differ though.

Having said that, it's a bit too scary for me. The sudden surge is brutal!

Oh that thread hehe...there're a couple of those in here. I think I have spammed all of them lolz :P

I spent a good 2-3 months just reading, reading and more reading - one of these threads is mine too. Worse still are the twin v single threads haha

But I also have a 3k stall so it's straight into powah! :devil:

...straight into wheel spin :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update for the sake of closure   Ended up getting the intercooler piping all sorted, new plugs and yellow jacket coils, and she was idling mint until it warmed up while I was bleeding the cooling system. Found the misfire to be localised to cyl 3 by unplugging coilpacks, ran a compression test, that checked out, then decided to get a mate to check if that spark plug was firing out of the motor. Upon cranking it over, with the injectors disconnected, the car actually fired and ran on a couple cylinders and heaps of fuel came out the top of cyl 3 I'd say that injector's either spraying incorrectly or spraying far too much, which is fine as I'm planning on replacing them anyway I'm planning on making about 250kW on flex fuel, and have a set of 1000cc injectors from ozautosport, obviously overkill but I'm planning on building the motor and running more boost further down the line, do you reckon they'd be too big for a smooth idle on 98? Thanks for the replies gents, much appreciated
    • I'm confused. You said you want to "remove the clear coat from most panels" but it sounds like you are actually doing a full respray? Few random things to add -  If you chase the blistered paint with 120 grit, I can almost guarantee you'll chase it down to bare metal (that's fine). But if you paint the car from here, you'll have nice little indents where ever the blistered paint was. The new paint won't magically level out the low areas, you need to fill them. Which leads me to the main point I wanted to add, make sure the whole car is flat before you paint it. All those areas with blistered paint you sanded out, make sure to fill them and triple check they are flat with a block guide coat. I'd also check the whole car is flat with a large block and guide coat but yeah up to you if you want to go that far.   
    • 300hp (225kw) is barely outside the standard turbo's range with a bit of extra boost in it (200ish). If you are going to change the turbo you should aim for 250-300kw (330-400hp) to make the expense worthwhile
    • A couple of things, firstly omg that turbo is expensive! $3,000 USD for dinosaur technology is robbery. You could buy a G series turbo and have a good amount of change instead.  If you want a good budget option, have a look here - https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/ If you are keen to spend more, have look at the modern turbos, Garrett G series, Borgwarner EFR, etc. Have a look at the RB25 dyno results thread for inspiration.  If you upgrade your turbo to something that will support the 300hp you want and only "probably" have Haltech ECU, your car will only "probably" run. Actually, no it won't run. You are going to need the ECU and injectors at the time you do the turbo upgrade.  No thoughts on "this much boost" as you didn't say how much boost that actually is. Having said that, plenty of unopened RB25's making even more power then what you are chasing.   
×
×
  • Create New...