Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So time for another update.

My entry has been accepted for WTAC 2012! Time for the work to begin! Well... continue. The next phase of development is happening now :)

I had to replace the water and oil lines that go to the turbo. The water lines were speed flow rubber braided lines but the rubber was actually melting through the braid. They have now been replaced with teflon braided lines and fittings so shouldn't stop it. The oil feed line had been crushed between the turbo and the strut tower. I was shocked when I saw it but turbo seems fine. Noticed it early enough to avoid causing too much damage. It's now secured so it won't happen again.

post-10715-0-55350200-1334411785_thumb.jpgpost-10715-0-07174400-1334411977_thumb.jpg

I've started stripping more out of the car for weight reduction too. So far I reckon about 25kg. The heater box alone was 9kg. All remaining sound deadening and carpet is going too. Roof lining, centre console and anything else that isn't really needed.

post-10715-0-57359200-1334412080_thumb.jpgpost-10715-0-43784200-1334412202_thumb.jpg

The old half cage is gone to make way for a full 6 point cage in the next month or so.

post-10715-0-83529800-1334412279_thumb.jpg

Another big change is the car is now making heaps more power! We decided to have a crack at E85. We used united pump E85 and were amazed with the results.

We did a run on 98 to establish a baseline. It made 284rwkw on 18psi which was what we had on the unigroup dyno in Sydney so that was good to know the dyno is accurate.

To begin with E85 we didn't even touch the boost and it gained 35kw at 2psi less! 320rwkw @ 16psi.

Then we started to lean on it with more timing and boost that got it up to 346rwkw at 19psi. We were amazed!

Final tune is set to about 325-330rwkw keeping in mind that this is a track car and a completely standard RB25.

post-10715-0-63362200-1334412454_thumb.jpg

One thing that has been going crazy in terms of development is Aero. It's such a big topic and I'm doing my best to understand it and apply what I can.

I've started with some ideas for front splitters and have a few theories about how I can do what all the big teams do on a budget. I am going to try my best to learn how to take moulds and make carbon fibre bits. I'll upload photos as I learn.

post-10715-0-66613200-1334412414_thumb.jpgpost-10715-0-78230500-1334412437_thumb.jpg

Good stuff russ.

i wouldnt go past just doing it in alloy. its marginally heavier but if you learn to fold and cut it yourself then get someone to weld it its a pretty cheap option.

i was surprised looking at the old Group A-C cars how much ducting was made by alloy and just riveted together.

just an option to save cash.

Mint. Will have to work out a weekend where I can run my car on the Ace Dyno as I am real curious to compare our curves and outputs.

And I am back in Melb soon so reality has just set in. I have two cars and no parking so may need to look at seeing if you have an empty spot at the Man Shed.

Good stuff russ.

i wouldnt go past just doing it in alloy. its marginally heavier but if you learn to fold and cut it yourself then get someone to weld it its a pretty cheap option.

i was surprised looking at the old Group A-C cars how much ducting was made by alloy and just riveted together.

just an option to save cash.

yeah the undertray will be aluminium and wrapped in carbon for rigidity. actually I think a lot of it will be.

Mint. Will have to work out a weekend where I can run my car on the Ace Dyno as I am real curious to compare our curves and outputs.

And I am back in Melb soon so reality has just set in. I have two cars and no parking so may need to look at seeing if you have an empty spot at the Man Shed.

That would be cool Troy.

Factory is pretty full but give me a call.

nice results and hope you are enjoying the "sweet" smell of E85 pwr :)

If i could make one suggestion with you spliter is to try and get it as close to the ground as possible, around 60mm if you can. The faster and smoother you can get that air under the front the better. Plan on having to take it on and off a bit but it is worth the effort, use some quick release fasteners on your front bar to make it easy if you continue to go down the path in your pic's.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
    • Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):
    • your right the maps for Australia came out in 2017 but are 2010 maps. i got the updated maps SD card put it in and it was the same. Same maps in my Brothers Nissan Patrol. 2020 i think his car is
    • Yeahhhh, the costs have killed me. Spent more than the cost of an engine rebuild and it most mostly servicing and a tune lol.
×
×
  • Create New...