Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Well I've confirmed my worst today. My 33 GTR, which I've owned for 2 months, has low compression. I threw a gauge on it tonight and its down to 125psi on all 6 cyls. I dropped a bit of oil in the cyls and the compression came up to 170psi.

Unfortunately for me, I am meant to be super sprinting on the 1st May.

Does anyone know any workshops in Sydney that can pull an engine out for me this week? I know its short notice, I've called around a few places and everyones booked out till after easter.

If anyone can help out or know of anyone im more than happy to pay $$$$.

I guess it seems I trusted the wrong guy and bought the car untested on his word. I was told it has forged internals and it does have bigger cams. I just hope the bore isn't scored or anything else bad.

Does anyone know a good rebuild kit? Whats a good suggestion for bearings and head gasket?

Thanks heaps for any help you can give.

Craig

0424854025

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/361245-rb26-rebuild-help/
Share on other sites

hey mate give paul from red r racing a call, he probley wont pull the motor out but his work is the best i have seen his number is 0419259522. But he can be alittle hard to get ahold of sometimes

As ZEB said, it could be all fine.

Normally when a motor drops comp, not all of the cylinders drop the same amount. If they're all equal it sounds like a nice clean spec from when it was built.

Is it blowing blue smoke once warm?

What made you test it?

Hey guys, I pulled it down and was I lucky I did. it was 125psi across all 6 when the engine was hot. A couple of drops of oil down the plug holes and they came up to 172psi. It was also suffering from severe blow bye. When you reved it the oil pressure would rise above the full pressure 8 kg/cm or what ever the reading is.

When I pulled the engine down I found a few surprises.

1. The thrust bearing was torn to shreds. The crank was suffering anodizing due to it.

2. The conrods had a really dodgy polishing job. They were standard rb26 rods, but one had started to crack due to where the buffing pad had cut into the rod.

3. Several of the conrod bearings showed severe flat spotting in the 6 o'clock position indicating detonation or pinging.

4. The rings were worn bad and the hissing noise past the pistons were crazy.

So now I've done the following:

1. Ground the crank and bought new acl race bearings all way around.

2. New Nitto h beam rods

3. New Nitto oil pump

4. Ground out the exhaust manifold where there was massive restrictions.

5. Metalcraft 9 liter sump

6. Mines cam baffles

7. UAS oil air seperator

8. 3 liter cusco catch can

9. 1.2mm and block off restrictors

10. Nitto drag series 1.2mm head gasket and full engine gasket kit

All I need to finish the rebuild is

1. Just jap silicon hide kit.

2. Tomei rings to suit my tomei cooling ring pistons.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The water pump is know to leak as well. So if the coolant is low checking that first as well as hoses. 
    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
×
×
  • Create New...