Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

Parting a 300zx.

Bits for sale as follows:

Manual socketted ecu with tune for 555's and standard tune also - $150 (easy Nistune install)

Hatch 2 seater - $200

Gearbox + Manual Conversion $1,200 (Heavy duty clutch, short shifter)

Series 2 ptu $70

AC compressor $80

Alternator $70

Shocks Bilsteins! $400

Mirrors $70 pair

Power steering rack (new boots!) $100

Door cards with speaker pods $80 pair

Battery $50

Pod Holders $40

Stereo Apline (Deck) $50

Amp Kenwood 4 Channel KAC 6403 $100

Subs Eclipse SW600 10" x 2 $100 the pair

Sub box custom for 2 seater. Fibreglass + wood $100

Speakers Rockford Fosgate splits with extra set of tweeters $120

Intake hoses/bov's (Polished hard pipes with hks BOV's) $100

Cluster $70

Steering wheel + boss kit $100

Fenders $100 pair

Door Drivers $50

Door passenger $50

Bonnet vented $100

Aerial $30

Side skirts bomex style $200

Spoiler Bomex style $100

Tension rods with new whiteline busings $100

Seats, driver passenger $100 pair

Blitz exhaust! 2.5" Cat Back $350

Greddy Turbo timer $80

HKS Speed Limit Defender $100 (removes 180kph speed limit!)

Rear Centre panel garnish $50

Headlight L $50

Headlight R $50

Front calipers $200

Rear calipers $100

Handbrake assy $50

Slotted Front Rotors (exchange) $100

AFM + plug + pod adapter + pod filter $150

Fan Shroud - $50

Pods (painted in blue, could paint them black again if u like) $50 for the two!

Pod Holders $20ea

2 seater spare wheel $40

18" Rims with Brand New Tyres $850

PM Jamie with any queries.

Cheers!

Jamie 0439317178

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you want to do a single throttle body conversion easily, you won't need to pull anything apart. Take the linkage from your throttle off the linkage controlling the ITBs. Now open the ITBs wide open, and lock the linkages in said position. Now add a single throttle body onto the front of your inlet plenum. No it's not ideal for the last nth of a kw, but it'll be a lot better than what you're already trying to do...   PS, ITBs can be so damn hard to tune from, because roughly 20% movement in a throttle body equates to a change in roughly 80% of its flow (Hence power). When you add up the flow limitations of those small throttle bodys, it is a LOT higher than that of a single large throttle. Hence, TPS is very very sensitive with them, and you do a LOT of work with sensor fusion, and some Maths behind the scenes to make those blends nice, and be smooth.
    • Yep, when Haltech purchased Adaptronic, and all of the Adaptronic staff, including Andy went with it, it took Haltech to the next level. Haltech wanted Adaptronic as they wanted things like Andy's fuel models, and some other IP, AND they wanted Andy too as he is brilliant! Andy has spoken about the incompatibilities between the old 1500 stuff vs Nexxus, and it totally makes sense. It's not JUST software that is different, there is huge changes in the underlying hardware too. It's why Haltech has had soooo many changes in the last couple of years, in terms of Hardware, and Software, and why it has become so damn Amazing. Why do you think guys like Rob Dahm with his quad rotor, went from running Adaptronic's to running Haltechs? Andy. Pretty much, Haltech these days, is Adaptronic, but with more funds behind it, and more staff, and hence Andy's visions, and visions of other people that he helps shape their great visions, into amazing new products. All the new Nexxus gear, whole new software for it, new and better dashboards, the apps that will run on headunits and NOT be slow to respond! I understand people being burnt in the past, but if you're ragging on a company, about products and issues from many years ago, it's more a reflection on yourself, not looking or keeping up with new stuff. In which case, those people should be going back to PowerFC and Nistunes as the ECU's to rave on about...
    • Right, but I thought the problem has been for a while now that even if you know manifold pressure + throttle position you still have non-linearity and aliasing issues vs actual engine load? One way I can see things simplifying is going DBW, then all air going into the engine is represented by the throttle position. As opposed to a random bimetallic strip vaguely linked to engine temperature opening and closing a shutter or some random power steering air valve suddenly allowing a bunch of bypass air. But the same throttle position/RPM at ~atmospheric MAP in different gears is not guaranteed to be same engine load? Honestly, ITBs are of such dubious value IMO. I don't know why these things are hyped up so much. The main benefit as far as I can tell is you reduce the likelihood of cross-cylinder EGR scavenging with significant cam overlap at idle. I would absolutely run speed density and be done with it if not for this fairly esoteric control problem.
    • Hah dont worry, my adult brain has this conversation every single day. Dont waste your money, invest more of it into shares, pay down the mortgage. Then the bedtime insta doom scrolling begins and after being bombarded with gtr's my mind is set: im definitely getting one! I have the current model mx5 as the weekender, but i just miss my boost and literally like your username, the sututu's that come with it. I remember with my 2nd supra, as it had twins and vvti, they used to spool real early, like 1,500rpm so you could just be a spooly boy all day long. Some people say they get over it after a while, not me tho. 
    • If you need to refinance your mortgage and reset the loan terms back to 30 years and cash out on your equity for "investment" purposes *cough* car parts, I can help 😊
×
×
  • Create New...