Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

when I went to pull my turbos off the first time, they were seized as buggery. Was really hard to crack them off.

I ran a tap over the threads and then put a dab of graphite-impregnated anti-seize on them. Then tightened them up the best I could.

5,000 k's later I had to pull them off to do my rb30 conversion. They still were clamped on nicely, but way easier to crack and wind off.

Where does everyone get the stainless studs from?

I get mine here, not sure what the thread pitch is on the RB's though, is it 1.5mm or 1.25?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200356383346&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_830wt_1139

After mine were a bitch to get off the 1st time I have the whole shebang a coat of WD40. (yes it burns off after 10mins). It's been off a few times and swapped turbo since and no problems - also no nuts coming loose either and they aren't stupidly tight either.

i have had problems a couple of time with stainless steel binding. its a f**ker when it does.

i dont bother using SS these days. i find high tensile bolt/stud in right size for what im doing and coat it with Caterpillar antiseize paste which is basically a copper paste. its not cheap buts its free for me and and amazing product.

deals with high temperatures extreamly well.

anything from caterpillar usually is great gear. on a side note, i use caterpillar gear oils in my box and diff in my track car.

Are you changing the turbo studs too? The 4 which hold the turbo on? If so what length and pitch are the standard ones? I need 4 new ones. My old manifold bolts looked like steel stud copper nut. Piece of piss to take both out after 30thou driving. New car has stock shit so I don't plan to ever take the manifold off lol. Need to replace the turbo ones as new turbo is going on. I've got some studs suitable but far too long and I really don't want to be here cutting away...

Lol actually I dont work for caterpillar lol. I work for a company called consolidated facilitations. Im an electrician by trade. My old man is a deisel fitter by trade and territory manager for caterpillar. Got a few mates who work in service for cat or in the mines doing break down work on cat gear so getting their products is not a hassel lets just say lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...