Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

when I went to pull my turbos off the first time, they were seized as buggery. Was really hard to crack them off.

I ran a tap over the threads and then put a dab of graphite-impregnated anti-seize on them. Then tightened them up the best I could.

5,000 k's later I had to pull them off to do my rb30 conversion. They still were clamped on nicely, but way easier to crack and wind off.

Where does everyone get the stainless studs from?

I get mine here, not sure what the thread pitch is on the RB's though, is it 1.5mm or 1.25?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200356383346&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_830wt_1139

After mine were a bitch to get off the 1st time I have the whole shebang a coat of WD40. (yes it burns off after 10mins). It's been off a few times and swapped turbo since and no problems - also no nuts coming loose either and they aren't stupidly tight either.

i have had problems a couple of time with stainless steel binding. its a f**ker when it does.

i dont bother using SS these days. i find high tensile bolt/stud in right size for what im doing and coat it with Caterpillar antiseize paste which is basically a copper paste. its not cheap buts its free for me and and amazing product.

deals with high temperatures extreamly well.

anything from caterpillar usually is great gear. on a side note, i use caterpillar gear oils in my box and diff in my track car.

Are you changing the turbo studs too? The 4 which hold the turbo on? If so what length and pitch are the standard ones? I need 4 new ones. My old manifold bolts looked like steel stud copper nut. Piece of piss to take both out after 30thou driving. New car has stock shit so I don't plan to ever take the manifold off lol. Need to replace the turbo ones as new turbo is going on. I've got some studs suitable but far too long and I really don't want to be here cutting away...

Lol actually I dont work for caterpillar lol. I work for a company called consolidated facilitations. Im an electrician by trade. My old man is a deisel fitter by trade and territory manager for caterpillar. Got a few mates who work in service for cat or in the mines doing break down work on cat gear so getting their products is not a hassel lets just say lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...