Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All - As I'm sure some of you have seen in a past thread or two a video was being done by a mate of mine who is trying to do some different things with regards to car film/video etc.

Please take the time to check it out and provide us with any feedback you might have :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/361307-gts-r-video-ready-for-viewing/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 79
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

All - As I'm sure some of you have seen in a past thread or two a video was being done by a mate of mine who is trying to do some different things with regards to car film/video etc.

Please take the time to check it out and provide us with any feedback you might have :)

http://vimeo.com/22464722

That car is mint :thumbsup:

well done mate.

good video. :cheers:

Yeah I know, first run through i didnt notice it as much but the more i watch it the more i notice it. :(

We'd already done two takes of the drive so it wasn't going to get done again.

Will - 5d MkII i believe.

Thanks for the comments so far. More feedback the better. More so surrounding camera technique, what does/doesn't look good and what people do/dont prefer etc.

The camera work was awesome i thought!

no offence - but the audio was abit out.. maybe unoticable to others but, to me when the music goes into transition to when you speak how the volume goes low/high. I think the volume of the backing track is a tad too loud when your not talking, but its spot on while you were..

my thought anyway!

Good production!

The way the music transition in and the volume went right up is a bit annoying.

I noticed the camera going slightly out of focus on your face a couple times.

Besides that it was quite a good watch.

Hey Ash I feel like it needs a shot from outside the car as it drives passed, so you can get a feel for its road presence etc... lots of detail shots but hard to get a feel of how it works as a whole

maybe some sounds of it hitting 8000rpm as you mention... just free rev it with the mic near the exhaust maybe

I know its as much about the owner as the car but feel you need a bit more car

my 2c

Beautiful car!

It is quite nice to put a face to a forum name every now and then :P and a car, that you so often quote about when your spanking teh newbs.

I can kinda see where your going with it, at least one little squirt would have given most viewers the smile they were after.

And although that R34 is an amazing looking car, it seemed odd to me to be sitting there rattling on about you HachR31 and everything about it, yet having the R34 sitting behind you and only showing pop shots of the R31 briefly. And seeing that you have put an incredible amount of effort into making it look better than it did rolling off the Nissan line, it needed the exposure it deserved!

Also, one thing that really catches my attention in a video, is short shots of the car from the exterior driving by. So you can hear it coming towards you and going away etc.

All constructive feedback from me. Hoping thats the kinda thing your after.

Other than that, Nice video!

Cool video Ash!

Aside from the obvious (needs moar car).. i thought it was perhaps a bit light on technical details. I suppose you're probably aiming it at people with not a great deal of car knowledge, but anyone watching a 10 minute video of an R31 probably knows a bit more than your average Joe!

Loved all the stuff about your passion for skylines etc though, that was tops :)

Hey Ash,

Very nice work on the vid.

Biggest thing i found is, the R34 seemed to be more of the center of attention then 31. Every time you and mick were being filmed the 34 was thier, you should realy have put the 32 thier as it is the center of attention.

Also some more wide shots of the car, just got up to the part when u drive the car and thier is probly only one or two decent wide shots of the whole car.

Defently need some action shots agan showing the whole car. im not shore if you take it to calder or track meets but if you do would be a good idea to throw these in as Well.

Hope this helps

brentt

Wow, the car is remarkably... sedate.....to look at anyway... I like your style :thumbsup:

yeah as Nick said more shots of the entire car and a driveby would be good, but eh..good werk.

EDIT

***Love the engine paint colour (I'm jely) but dude, do something about the overflow bottle, like wash it or bleach it even. Better yet spray it black..Oh yeah bodywork is AMAZING!!!***

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A lot of what you said there are fair observations and part of why I made that list, to make some of these things (like no advantage between the GSeries and GSeries II at PR2.4 in a lot of cases) however I'm not fully convinced by other comments.  One thing to bare in mind is that compressor flow maps are talking about MASS flow, in terms of the compressor side you shouldn't end up running more or less airflow vs another compressor map for the same advertised flow if all external environmental conditions are equivalent if the compressor efficiency is lower as that advertised mass flow takes that into consideration.   Once the intercooler becomes involved the in-plenum air temperature shouldn't be that different, either... the main thing that is likely to affect the end power is the final exhaust manifold pressure - which *WILL* go up when you run out of compressor efficiency when you run off the map earlier on the original G-Series versus G-Series II as you need to keep the gate shut to achieve similar airflow.    Also, how do you figure response based off surge line?  I've seen people claim that as an absolute fact before but am pretty sure I've seen compressors with worse surge lines actually "stand up" faster (and ironically be more likely to surge), I'm not super convinced - it's really a thing we won't easily be able to determine until people start using them.     There are some things on the maps that actually make me wonder if there is a chance that they may respond no worse... if not BETTER?!  which brings me to your next point... Why G2 have lower max rpm?  Really good question and I've been wondering about this too.  The maximum speed *AND* the compressor maps both look like what I'd normally expect if Garrett had extended the exducers out, but they claim the same inducer and exducer size for the whole range.   If you compare the speed lines between any G and G2 version the G2 speed lines support higher flow for the same compressor speed, kinda giving a pretty clear "better at pumping more air for the same speed" impression. Presumably the exducer includes any extended tip design instead of just the backplate, but nonetheless I'd love to see good pics/measurements of the G2 compressors as everything kinda points to something different about the exducer - specifically that it must be further out from the centerline, which means a lower rpm for the same max tip speed and often also results in higher pressure ratio efficiency, narrower maps, and often actually can result in better spool vs a smaller exducer for the same inducer size... no doubt partly due to the above phenomenon of needing less turbine speed to achieve the same airflow when using a smaller trim. Not sure if this is just camera angle or what, but this kinda looks interesting on the G35 990 compressor tips: Very interested to see what happens when people start testing these, and if we start getting more details about what's different.
    • I know right. It baffled me. There's no way when the engine is off, key is in ignition, (coils are dissconnected aswell), also my sound system was dissconnected (I don't run any audio capacitors), battery reads 12.2v and with the 10amp fuse blown I was measuring 24 to 30v. The reading would move a bit from 30v to 24v which was weird. I took a pic of the multi meter reading 🤣: (This is a brand new single channel digital oscilloscope that also has a multi meter mode).   Before when the fuse was blown, I had one lead on the 12v supply (green/white wires) of that brown relay and the other lead on the negative battery terminal. When I turned the key on ignition (engine off), it would read 30v. Then when I removed that relay from it's plug and tried putting ignition on again, it would read 12v, but I think it's because it can't turn on the ecu now that I removed it. I asked Chatgpt and this is what it had to say:   Not sure if those theories would be possible but, any auto sparkies here? welcome to confirm. 🤷‍♂️  No idea, but if it happens again, atleast I know what type of issue it is, unlike last few months where I didn't know what was causing all my issues and I was just taking stabs in the dark to figure out what type of problem it was. If it does happen again I'm going to investigate futher and trace back the source even more and inspect more circuits. I drove it to work this morning and the car drove and boosted fine. Yeah I was thinking the same, so I've imported my back up saved map (which is the map that I saved when it got done tuning) back onto my haltech with the base fuel pressure set to 43.5psi.
    • Yeh nice, if your in melbourne could you recommend any exhaust shops in the east that do a good job?
    • Sorry yes, this is what im after Also, that jpjdm site appears to be offline
×
×
  • Create New...