Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Ash,

Very nice work on the vid.

Biggest thing i found is, the R34 seemed to be more of the center of attention then 31. Every time you and mick were being filmed the 34 was thier, you should realy have put the 32 thier as it is the center of attention.

Also some more wide shots of the car, just got up to the part when u drive the car and thier is probly only one or two decent wide shots of the whole car.

Defently need some action shots agan showing the whole car. im not shore if you take it to calder or track meets but if you do would be a good idea to throw these in as Well.

Hope this helps

brentt

You mean 31 :P

Dope video, but as some have said defs needs more car. Tidy looking GTS-R though.

  • Replies 79
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Now believe it or not - The car hasn't even had a cut'n'polish yet. The paintjob is directly off the gun at this stage :)

Few minor things to be done like add the sticker kit on, fix the overflow, front lip wasn't on the car etc.

Thanks for the feedback so far guys though either way. I'll be making sure the guys doing the filming see this as this was the point.

Try a few things, get some feedback and so on. You'll notice slight differences with each video (5 they are upto now).

It's all being taken as constructive so no dramas there :thumbsup:

Feel free to embed it on other sites if you wish as well. No issue with that as long as it links to the original.

Hey Ash,

Love the footage, very professional.

Thanks for the insight into your car. Its old school with a modern spin, absolutely love it!

I might head off to Micolour to get some minor refinishing done to my car.

Matt

Hey Ash,

Like the others have said this is a great video. I really like the camera work in the garage scenes showing the details of the cars. The dolly work really adds dimension. They also did a great job of varying the interest by use of shooting from different angles but spliced together to make it seem as though it was continuous (like when you get in the car).

I also loved the use of close-up, speed-up and focus. That makes the whole effect look really professional.

IMO the bit inside the car and the drive was too long. You are discussing a lot but after a few minutes I lost interest and found myself skipping forward to get to the next bit. Unfortunately that's how we've trained ourselves now. Anything more than a minute of the same drains the viewers attention. I think it is also more distracting because of the movement and the lovely sound of the RB that I don't listen to you as much. Might have been better to have the camera where the rear view mirror is so that you are talking into it while driving and there is less distaction for those shots as you focus on the driver more instead of inside the car and stuff wizzing by in the side window.

It is also a bit of a tease to hear you talk about the performance of the car but not get to experience it. Some high speed flybys, Deca work or some track in-car would go miles in adding a bit of excitement to the mix.

During the in shop interviews would have been very tricky unless they were using multiple cameras at once. If this was a "budget" deal then they did do an excellent job. It's only barely noticable as they switch from close up to pan that it would have had to have been done in separate takes and try to get the audio and dialog to match. Did they use two cameras? If it was only one they did a surprisingly good job - as you guys would have had to have done too if repeating the dialog.

Let them know well done. I know how much effort it takes to put a production like this together. And well done to you two guys in the interview too. It isn't easy to seem at ease in front of the camera and you did a great job.

Keep them coming! Nice to see some others doing video work here on SAU.

Trashly, all I saw mate, was jibba jabba I like navy Blue Tissue boxes.....

Having said it's sad I cant find/pickup a non-munted GTS-R. The car has come up a treat mate, I'd be super happy with the finished product.

P.S. Hi Mick. :action-smiley-069:

true skyline enthusiast :thumbsup:

perhaps whilst your talking about the mods in the car, you could have in writing in the corner or side of the screen about all the bits and pieces in the car.

and agree with the above, could do with more shots of the entire car from a distance, to capture the whole stance of the car from different angles, maybe from a few different locations.

very cool the way its filmed while driving around, a camera mounted on the rear bumper would be nice.

Very, very well made vid. Also good to see what Ash looks like finally hahaha.

Very tidy car man, glad to finally see some footage of it.

I think every one has mentioned the key things that could have slightly improved the video. Some more drive by footage, some more "performance" footage (I realise this can be hard to achieve if all you have access to at the time of filming is public roads) and also it should have had a shot of the tacho going to around 8000rpm after you said it :P

But nah was really good man, you should be quite proud.

:cheers:

great video, first time seeing your GTS-R to, very impressed!

Hey ash I loved the video brah, but I wasn't really interested in any of the talking part in the inside of the car....it would of been much more effective if you said

"Its an RB26DETT R31 GTS-R, only 800 were made"....then loooked at the camera and said "This is how the big boys do it" Then f**king dumped the clutch smashing the gears into synchronisation each change at 8000rpm and f**king strugling to gain traction caus u were puting so much f**king power through the rear wheels!

loook at the popular japan videos and thats what hapens for instance Touge Showdown....do something like that for your next vid please :)

Hey ash I loved the video brah, but I wasn't really interested in any of the talking part in the inside of the car....it would of been much more effective if you said

"Its an RB26DETT R31 GTS-R, only 800 were made"....then loooked at the camera and said "This is how the big boys do it" Then f**king dumped the clutch smashing the gears into synchronisation each change at 8000rpm and f**king strugling to gain traction caus u were puting so much f**king power through the rear wheels!

loook at the popular japan videos and thats what hapens for instance Touge Showdown....do something like that for your next vid please :)

Post outside the wasteland again and I'll ban your arse you muppet.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A lot of what you said there are fair observations and part of why I made that list, to make some of these things (like no advantage between the GSeries and GSeries II at PR2.4 in a lot of cases) however I'm not fully convinced by other comments.  One thing to bare in mind is that compressor flow maps are talking about MASS flow, in terms of the compressor side you shouldn't end up running more or less airflow vs another compressor map for the same advertised flow if all external environmental conditions are equivalent if the compressor efficiency is lower as that advertised mass flow takes that into consideration.   Once the intercooler becomes involved the in-plenum air temperature shouldn't be that different, either... the main thing that is likely to affect the end power is the final exhaust manifold pressure - which *WILL* go up when you run out of compressor efficiency when you run off the map earlier on the original G-Series versus G-Series II as you need to keep the gate shut to achieve similar airflow.    Also, how do you figure response based off surge line?  I've seen people claim that as an absolute fact before but am pretty sure I've seen compressors with worse surge lines actually "stand up" faster (and ironically be more likely to surge), I'm not super convinced - it's really a thing we won't easily be able to determine until people start using them.     There are some things on the maps that actually make me wonder if there is a chance that they may respond no worse... if not BETTER?!  which brings me to your next point... Why G2 have lower max rpm?  Really good question and I've been wondering about this too.  The maximum speed *AND* the compressor maps both look like what I'd normally expect if Garrett had extended the exducers out, but they claim the same inducer and exducer size for the whole range.   If you compare the speed lines between any G and G2 version the G2 speed lines support higher flow for the same compressor speed, kinda giving a pretty clear "better at pumping more air for the same speed" impression. Presumably the exducer includes any extended tip design instead of just the backplate, but nonetheless I'd love to see good pics/measurements of the G2 compressors as everything kinda points to something different about the exducer - specifically that it must be further out from the centerline, which means a lower rpm for the same max tip speed and often also results in higher pressure ratio efficiency, narrower maps, and often actually can result in better spool vs a smaller exducer for the same inducer size... no doubt partly due to the above phenomenon of needing less turbine speed to achieve the same airflow when using a smaller trim. Not sure if this is just camera angle or what, but this kinda looks interesting on the G35 990 compressor tips: Very interested to see what happens when people start testing these, and if we start getting more details about what's different.
    • I know right. It baffled me. There's no way when the engine is off, key is in ignition, (coils are dissconnected aswell), also my sound system was dissconnected (I don't run any audio capacitors), battery reads 12.2v and with the 10amp fuse blown I was measuring 24 to 30v. The reading would move a bit from 30v to 24v which was weird. I took a pic of the multi meter reading 🤣: (This is a brand new single channel digital oscilloscope that also has a multi meter mode).   Before when the fuse was blown, I had one lead on the 12v supply (green/white wires) of that brown relay and the other lead on the negative battery terminal. When I turned the key on ignition (engine off), it would read 30v. Then when I removed that relay from it's plug and tried putting ignition on again, it would read 12v, but I think it's because it can't turn on the ecu now that I removed it. I asked Chatgpt and this is what it had to say:   Not sure if those theories would be possible but, any auto sparkies here? welcome to confirm. 🤷‍♂️  No idea, but if it happens again, atleast I know what type of issue it is, unlike last few months where I didn't know what was causing all my issues and I was just taking stabs in the dark to figure out what type of problem it was. If it does happen again I'm going to investigate futher and trace back the source even more and inspect more circuits. I drove it to work this morning and the car drove and boosted fine. Yeah I was thinking the same, so I've imported my back up saved map (which is the map that I saved when it got done tuning) back onto my haltech with the base fuel pressure set to 43.5psi.
    • Yeh nice, if your in melbourne could you recommend any exhaust shops in the east that do a good job?
    • Sorry yes, this is what im after Also, that jpjdm site appears to be offline
×
×
  • Create New...