Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all Im over drift and want to empty my shed so here is a list of all the goodies you can get your hands on.

I am located in Whyalla SA and will post almost anything anywhere in AUS

· Garret GT 30/40R .63 exhaust housing T3 flange $1200

· High flow RB25det turbo (GT2871R core) $800

· Microtech LT12s, RB25det plug & play adapter, hand controller, X6 igniter & 6 bosch coils $1500

· New Kazz 2 way lsd still in the box for S14, R32, R33 $800

· Used 2 way lsd in R33 diff housing $600

· R33 skyline no motor or gearbox rolling shell $1500

· RB25det race motor, built by lewis engins, race prepped block, blueprinted and balanced internals, Tomei oil pump, New RB26 crank, Scat forged rods, JE forged pistons, gapless rings, race ported head, full reco head, Tomei valve springs, hi energy sump, adjustable camgear, Extreeme light weight flywheel & 1600 kg puck clutch. This engine has been buit to put out over 350rwkw all day $6000

· RB25det gearbox $700

· R33 manual conversion, pedal box, clutch master & slave cylinders and lines, tail shaft, gearbox crossmember, gear boot surround $500

· R33 pumped metal front gards all metal big flare suit drift car $200

· Surge tank, Bosch 044 pump, bracket & speed flow fittings $300

· New 650cc top feed injectors, fuel rail, speedflow suit RB25det $550

· Haltech interceptor platinum suit any car $500

· Whiteline swaybars, pillow ball front linkages $350

· R33 3" Cat back exhaust with cannon $200

· R31 3" custom cat back exhaust with cannon $200

· Heaps of other skyline and performance parts, just txt or pm me with what your after

more pics coming soon or ask for specific items

Open to all serious offers

Shaun 0412 445 360

post-46567-0-17908400-1303131146_thumb.jpg

post-46567-0-91285600-1303131290_thumb.jpg

post-46567-0-82060600-1303131370_thumb.jpg

post-46567-0-78321200-1303131460_thumb.jpg

post-46567-0-65693800-1303131495_thumb.jpg

post-46567-0-75509000-1303131536_thumb.jpg

post-46567-0-46338500-1303131573_thumb.jpg

What brand is the used lsd and will you seperate the pillow ball mounts off the swaybars?

May consider parting the pillow balls from sway bars, what are you offering?

As for the diff it has no makings on it, then again nither does my new Kazz 2way :blink:

Hi there the 25 box is in good working condition, but yes has very worn synchros so if you dont drive it right it will grind the gear a lil into 4th mainly.

Yes I can get a quote for you to ship it to nsw at you expense.

My honest recomendation is that you put a new set of synchros through it and it will be good as gold

And yes it's definately a turbo box it's from my gtst

what is the rail that comes with injectors? pics?

Il get a pic of the rail today

Its just one of those ebay purple hks imitations comes with all fittings and injector reducers, speed flow fittings -8.

It will fit a forward facing manifold, I tried fitting it too a stock manifold and it didnt fit.

what mm are the swaybars? and are they adjustable?

also keen on the kaaz 2 way, do you have receipts for it? diff looks good but box looks ancient lol

also keen on any other r33 suspension/drift parts you may have.

pm me champ.

cheers

Adrian 0435 430 440

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
×
×
  • Create New...