Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Up for sale is my project car i have been working on for 3 years, standard Blue in colour i have listed below current parts / modifications etc, interested in stripping for the right price whole car goes for $5,500

RB 25 DET done 55,000 (out of a r34) wiring loom and ECU

Manual gear box

Excedy 3 plate button clutch (on or off)

lowered suspension

new front mount

Z32 AFM

stainless steel cat back exhaust

series 2 dash and cluster

retrimed Blue and white interiour (excluding Driver seat)

* Roof

* Rear Seats

* Passanger Seat

* Door Trims

Fluted Bonnet

After Market Fuel Pump

Pod Filter

=Much more that has slipped my mind=

I will update with some pictures soon but if anyone is keen please e-mail me

trevor.paton@y7mail.com

0405 124 906

Edited by Ranga!!
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/361430-r33-unfinished-project/
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Guys

i will get some pictures up tonight, also please note that i intend to sell this as a running car- unfinished project, this of course is negotiable and if you want to make any offers please call me, it is a complete car at the moment just needs a paint job and ready for rego.

0405 124 906

Trevor

Edited by Ranga!!

Please keep in mind it is ready for primer and I intend to paint within two weeks, once painted I will be very reluctant to negotiate price, all dints scratched etc have been repaired.

post-76886-0-97376700-1305672740_thumb.jpgpost-76886-0-49039200-1305673010_thumb.jpgpost-76886-0-66745500-1305673054_thumb.jpgpost-76886-0-61111400-1305673109_thumb.jpgpost-76886-0-39261300-1305673130_thumb.jpgpost-76886-0-62120700-1305673161_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Interested in the radiator, suspension(if after market) and the A pillar with gauges. Inbox me if you're going to separate. Need a thicker core radiator to install when my belt goes on and that looks thicker than stock. Do you know brand or specs?

Also interesting to see the passenger side air bag in a series 1.1.5 didn't have the air bag, did it?

Edited by SargeRX8

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...