Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

bolt on a turbo :D thats all i have to add to this thread. No off boost lag, and the conversion cost me $1250.. who cares if it only runs 6psi, tho i prob need a 1/4 time to back this up. Either way they are cheap easy cars to mod.. every P Plater should have one.

Brent.

  • Replies 75
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I used my NA block/head simply because its cheap, and because i didnt want to lose torque and off boost performance. I got an avg condition T3, manifold injectors and dump pipe, bought oil and water lines, got a rechipped VL computer, and some piping, and a 180sx cooler (which i did not put on and dont recomend it) umm wat else? gaskets, o and the front pipe got given to me for a 6 pack :P and that saw $1250, o yea and a boost guage.

The intercooler which isnt included in that i picked up an R33 GT-R one for $340 last week, simlpy coz the guy didnt know what it was other than "off a skyline" and it had some bent fins and dents, but it was tested to 20psi and doesnt leak so im amped. so that installed will be around $450 (DIY mild steel piping.)

Thats pretty much all.

feel free to PM me if u have ne more quieries

Regards,

Brenton.

Thats about the average price.. VL injectors ($100), turbo (~$500), cross over pipe ($100), VLT manifold (~$300), VLT ecu (~$130) + fiddling around.

Although comparitively you're probably looking at about $2k all up to drop an RB20DET in, if you do most of the labour yourself or get a mate to help.

I am not sure which is the better option to be honest. RB20DET is a "proper" turbo compression motor and quite capable of running 240rwkw (or above) without problems. But meant to be laggier and less torque like you say

I'm interested as to when do you feel the kick in the pants and how much? already the RB30E has a fair bit of torque.. around 500nM or so.

This getting a little offtopic though!

i love the way everyone says the build quality of the VL is so shit when they have never owned one before.

Well, i have owned both

VL 5sp Formula and a R31 Passage GT

the passage shits all over the vl... just interior, looks, performance (but that's a given being a turbi import), reliability, build quality... just everything, even down the minor details.

vl was nice... but too...(i hate using the word bogan) unlike a 'boyracers' appeal. The skyline takes the icing tho, not noisy inside when driving, everything works sweetas, front and rear brakes unlike the vl (unless tb6 or 8).

r31's !

I'm interested as to when do you feel the kick in the pants and how much? already the RB30E has a fair bit of torque.. around 500nM or so.  

I didnt know the Rb30e had that much torque. I thought it was only like 247nM (almost the same as an rb20det), with a turbo 150kw with 296 nm.

I didnt know the Rb30e had that much torque. I thought it was only like 247nM (almost the same as an rb20det), with a turbo 150kw with 296 nm

hmm, does seem a little high actually.. got this dyno chart last weekend: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/at...achmentid=15814 was the dyno out??

Although here is an RB25DE chart on a similar dyno w/ similar figures?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/at...achmentid=11421

  • 2 weeks later...
RB all the way. VL is one of the best commodores. only commodore that didn't have pushrods at the time.  

Cheers, MARK

The only six cylinder commodore ever built to this day with an overhead cam was the VL. I traded a four month old VN V8 5 speed in on my first R31, a series 3 silhouette. The Nissan made the new commodore feel like a taxi. I am still a nissan girl with 3 R31's and a J31 Maxima. (Gotta stick to any nissan with a 31 in the model code).

hi, go the skyline of course.

i have a 89 ti and its a good car, would have been better if it had been built in japan but hey cant change that now. Up against vs s commodores its won with only mods being extractors and straight thru 2.5 inch exhaust. very comfortable and no rust, still goes hard and get 10l per 100km on a trip. Handling is 'nice' compared to my '32.

Have driven a VL when it was six months old, it went very nicely, quite fast but body flex was a bit worrying. Parked car on a driveway that was angled and then levelled out- front wheels on flat ,back wheels on slope- over night and next day couldnt open back door without force. took a couple of hours of driving before the body 'realigned' itself. Had a friend who had a modified turbo vl which cracked the back windscreen whilst doing a dyno run... body flex...

Very easy to see which is better car , how many vls are in good nick compared to skylines. Also heard about vl heads - something to do with a radiator for a ancient holden motor being used for a 'modern' engine

Regarding the torque readouts on the dyno:

The figures we are looking at on the dyno sheets are at the wheels figures - ie torque at the wheels. This differs from torque at the engine because the force has been acted upon by the gearbox and diff. That is, the torque figures at the wheels are comparatively high due to the effects of gearing.

Sorry for the bad explanation, my mind's gone blank.

greg: yup, i read later on that you have to divide by the gear ratio the dyno run is taken on, then diff ratio, then something else to get the correct figure. There is a formula close to that (I go search)

p.s. i've decided my r31 is going turbo to see what happens.. bits are on their way :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That ring thing is interesting how it's holding everything together 
    • Hey guys. I have a 400R on its way to Australia from Japan currently and have a few questions I’m hoping others may be able to help with.   Wondering if anyone here has had any luck getting the Sat nav unit to work in Australia!? Assuming the Stereo is as simple as a band expanded and tv won’t work?  Seeing as they’re based off a Q50 which is Aus delivered is there any way to link that system to the nav? Nav modules and head unit are different part numbers and appear slightly different at the rear with plug ins etc. can I put my xtrail sd card into the rv37 and will that convert the maps or update to Australian? Has anyone got any advice here?     also has anyone fitted the factory remote start and Security system once it’s landed in Australia? I put an enquirey to Nissan Japan in via a third party, and they suggested it needs a Nissan Japan dealers device to setup and couldn’t guarantee if one here could do it or not. They can supply and I can physically fit it but to setup I would need a dealers device. Any information here would be appreciated also. I’ve seen one here with it fitted already prior to leaving Japan at a dealer/inporter, so clearly passes compliance and works when fitted Japan and doesn’t need changing here.      also, does the tyre inflation sensors work here? Does anything change with them when the vehicle arrives? Where are they actually situated? I’ve read they have batteries and they need to changing at times and seems like resetting involves the nav system?    any help here would be appreciated and any other aust specific information to help would be great. Looking forward to see what the current generation skyline is like and eager to see how many of the gadgets can be utilised here.  Thanks in advance 
    • Do need to take it with a pinch of salt. One of the adapter failures, they clearly had setup issues with the flywheel.  One of the slipping ones I spoke to and it was pretty clear the throwout was riding, rather than fix, just swapped to a new clutch.    These clutches are being put in anything from 5k offroad 4x4 beaters, GR yaris, 500hp commodores to 1200hp barra monsters. Bound to be some issues in some of them when they are not a simple bolt in affair due to the changes in height.    There is a lot going on in this picture and unless I did the job myself no way to tell what really happened. 
    • I did this mod in 2019  You just have to modify the top bracket of the ABS/TC/Fuel Pump Control ECU so it sits more upright and closer to the back seat and run a good quality positive battery lead from the engine bay, the negative lead i just bolted down to the body in the boot.
    • Damn... Not the feedback I want to hear.
×
×
  • Create New...