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bolt on a turbo :D thats all i have to add to this thread. No off boost lag, and the conversion cost me $1250.. who cares if it only runs 6psi, tho i prob need a 1/4 time to back this up. Either way they are cheap easy cars to mod.. every P Plater should have one.

Brent.

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I used my NA block/head simply because its cheap, and because i didnt want to lose torque and off boost performance. I got an avg condition T3, manifold injectors and dump pipe, bought oil and water lines, got a rechipped VL computer, and some piping, and a 180sx cooler (which i did not put on and dont recomend it) umm wat else? gaskets, o and the front pipe got given to me for a 6 pack :P and that saw $1250, o yea and a boost guage.

The intercooler which isnt included in that i picked up an R33 GT-R one for $340 last week, simlpy coz the guy didnt know what it was other than "off a skyline" and it had some bent fins and dents, but it was tested to 20psi and doesnt leak so im amped. so that installed will be around $450 (DIY mild steel piping.)

Thats pretty much all.

feel free to PM me if u have ne more quieries

Regards,

Brenton.

Thats about the average price.. VL injectors ($100), turbo (~$500), cross over pipe ($100), VLT manifold (~$300), VLT ecu (~$130) + fiddling around.

Although comparitively you're probably looking at about $2k all up to drop an RB20DET in, if you do most of the labour yourself or get a mate to help.

I am not sure which is the better option to be honest. RB20DET is a "proper" turbo compression motor and quite capable of running 240rwkw (or above) without problems. But meant to be laggier and less torque like you say

I'm interested as to when do you feel the kick in the pants and how much? already the RB30E has a fair bit of torque.. around 500nM or so.

This getting a little offtopic though!

i love the way everyone says the build quality of the VL is so shit when they have never owned one before.

Well, i have owned both

VL 5sp Formula and a R31 Passage GT

the passage shits all over the vl... just interior, looks, performance (but that's a given being a turbi import), reliability, build quality... just everything, even down the minor details.

vl was nice... but too...(i hate using the word bogan) unlike a 'boyracers' appeal. The skyline takes the icing tho, not noisy inside when driving, everything works sweetas, front and rear brakes unlike the vl (unless tb6 or 8).

r31's !

I'm interested as to when do you feel the kick in the pants and how much? already the RB30E has a fair bit of torque.. around 500nM or so.  

I didnt know the Rb30e had that much torque. I thought it was only like 247nM (almost the same as an rb20det), with a turbo 150kw with 296 nm.

I didnt know the Rb30e had that much torque. I thought it was only like 247nM (almost the same as an rb20det), with a turbo 150kw with 296 nm

hmm, does seem a little high actually.. got this dyno chart last weekend: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/at...achmentid=15814 was the dyno out??

Although here is an RB25DE chart on a similar dyno w/ similar figures?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/at...achmentid=11421

  • 2 weeks later...
RB all the way. VL is one of the best commodores. only commodore that didn't have pushrods at the time.  

Cheers, MARK

The only six cylinder commodore ever built to this day with an overhead cam was the VL. I traded a four month old VN V8 5 speed in on my first R31, a series 3 silhouette. The Nissan made the new commodore feel like a taxi. I am still a nissan girl with 3 R31's and a J31 Maxima. (Gotta stick to any nissan with a 31 in the model code).

hi, go the skyline of course.

i have a 89 ti and its a good car, would have been better if it had been built in japan but hey cant change that now. Up against vs s commodores its won with only mods being extractors and straight thru 2.5 inch exhaust. very comfortable and no rust, still goes hard and get 10l per 100km on a trip. Handling is 'nice' compared to my '32.

Have driven a VL when it was six months old, it went very nicely, quite fast but body flex was a bit worrying. Parked car on a driveway that was angled and then levelled out- front wheels on flat ,back wheels on slope- over night and next day couldnt open back door without force. took a couple of hours of driving before the body 'realigned' itself. Had a friend who had a modified turbo vl which cracked the back windscreen whilst doing a dyno run... body flex...

Very easy to see which is better car , how many vls are in good nick compared to skylines. Also heard about vl heads - something to do with a radiator for a ancient holden motor being used for a 'modern' engine

Regarding the torque readouts on the dyno:

The figures we are looking at on the dyno sheets are at the wheels figures - ie torque at the wheels. This differs from torque at the engine because the force has been acted upon by the gearbox and diff. That is, the torque figures at the wheels are comparatively high due to the effects of gearing.

Sorry for the bad explanation, my mind's gone blank.

greg: yup, i read later on that you have to divide by the gear ratio the dyno run is taken on, then diff ratio, then something else to get the correct figure. There is a formula close to that (I go search)

p.s. i've decided my r31 is going turbo to see what happens.. bits are on their way :)

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