Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

would i be able to get some advise on what to do with my bov? i just got it installed and its pretty loud, am afraid that it will get the cops attention. i am getting a plumb-back adapter for it, any opinions on that?

thanks!

go back to stock, even stock has a fair bit of noise with a pod/highflow filter

Does anyone have a 250-300rwkw gtst / gtt / gtr in Sydney who could take me for a brief spin in their skyline as I am also contemptlating putting on a hypergear turbo down the track??? I would really appreciate that.

Have a read of the nistune website. It lists a number of WA installers:

http://www.nistune.c...istributors.php

Also read the nistune thread on here.

The panel filters are a common size - falcon, evo etc.

I m using a Pipercross Px-PP1128 for about $100 there are K&N many others.

Use the search button and use Google to ask questions (quite often you will be referred to this website!).

may i ask where u bought ur panel filter from?

and also with my current pod filter, if i remove it and replace it with the panel filter, do i need any other adpaters or parts? cos when i bought the car, it already came with the pod filter, don't have the stock parts.

thanks!

Well I bought mine in Auckland so no use to you. You could order one from one of these Aussie suppliers: http://www.pipercross.net/fastroad/stockists_worldwide.asp?country=AU&id=9

From memory the afm bolts to the box and the hose fits the afm but since you have a pod now its not a priority tbh just look out for the bits at the right price when they come up.

Could I get some opinions on leaving out the bov entirely, covering up the valve and run it full surge back without any bov?

It will be noisy and depending on the turbo it can sound really shit or ok, can always block off your current bov so you know what it will sound like. Just make a gasket out of a coke can for now and see.

Edited by Rolls

dumps are the same according to a tuner I spoke to

neo has a different intake manifold, different sensors, ignition etc but exhaust should be identical

neo only came in the R34 afaik so 99% sure you have one

Edited by Rolls

dumps are the same according to a tuner I spoke to

neo has a different intake manifold, different sensors, ignition etc but exhaust should be identical

neo only came in the R34 afaik so 99% sure you have one

cos im getting one and on ebay they're selling a RB25 one and a RB25DET one. Not sure which one to get.

Cheers!

cos im getting one and on ebay they're selling a RB25 one and a RB25DET one. Not sure which one to get.

Cheers!

odd, ask them to clarify before you buy, see if anyone in here chirps up as well, afaik they were all the same, maybe I'm wrong.

edit: oh right, 34 one is probably going to be different due to exhaust mounting etc, the actual dump flange is the same though.

Edited by Rolls

if you're going to upgrade the Turbo (why not when you can get stock like response but a heap more power) go for the Hypergear SS highflow - around 250rwkw and very similar response to stock. You'll prob need a Z32 AFM, but you MIGHT be able to get away with it. I maxed the resolution at around 240'ish rwkw on my old GTT.

You'll need a GOOD intake pipe made up as well if you switch turbos. The old 'shove a metal pipe in' has it's limits, you'll need something custom made up - DON'T go the silicone options, waste of time. Metal, metal, metal.

Injectors are a much easier deal now-a-days, just grab some Injector Dynamics injectors. Start around the 725cc mark, but i'd prob just get 1000's to allow for E85 :D Or get the 'no-name' variety of Bosch EV12 (i think) style injector, that's what the ID's are based off.

I went nistune, hypergear highflow, stock airbox, stock BOv, highflow panel filter, return flow IC (plus other supporting mods) for bout 5+ years with GTT - never any cops drama's at all. Make sure the exhaust isn't too loud, and following all the great advice already in this thread you'll have a mean car that's still quite stealth. 250rwkw in a GTT is a lot of fun :)

But please please look into your tyres/suspension/brakes as well.

Swaybars, do eeet! Cheap and fantastic handling upgrade - Whiteline.

Tyres, my car liked the KU36's, but alternatively i'd prob splash a few hundred more on some AD08's from tirerack

Brake cylinder stopper, check ebay, very cheap.

Check brakes over, bleed, put some good fluid in etc (RBF600)

But yeah, would be a good idea to check the spring rates if you can. Get some swaybars for sure though! :D

have fun

Both are rubbish imo..the outlet is only 2.5" on those style of dump elbows

Better off with something like this

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/362300-why-are-my-tyre-marks-so-piss-weak/page__pid__5781686#entry5781686

They also have a stainless one

3" all the way through and bolt straight up to the cat

Both are rubbish imo..the outlet is only 2.5" on those style of dump elbows

Better off with something like this

http://www.skylinesa...86#entry5781686

They also have a stainless one

3" all the way through and bolt straight up to the cat

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=17009&cat=276&page=2

what about this one? it doesn't say 2.5" or 3"

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...