Jump to content
SAU Community

Wtb R33 S1.5 Manual Ecu


JOE081
 Share

Recommended Posts

hey man i've got a r33 series 1 auto ecu for sale. I'm 99% sure that the auto ecu will work with the manual no problems as the auto has a separate ecu for the shift changes. does your car have a separate ignition module? (little black thing that sits at the back of the cam cover).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Deatschwerks 1800cc these are new never used injectors retail is just over $1000 suit top feed injectors . Product information in pictures . $800
    • I've just had the world's best bad idea. We have fuel returning back to the tank. Just point some/all of it at the inside of the bulkhead fitting. Direct liquid cooling!
    • Hypothetical hat on.... I think they want to make sure that it is no more than 8.2mm to ensure that the 14mm hex electrical isolator washer thing stays outboard of the hole, so the o-rig on it seals properly, and they want as much room as possible between the passthrough bolt and the plastic lid, so that it can't touch the plastic and heat it. Even assuming that the steel should run cold enough to not be an issue, they are probably applying additional paranoia in case of the sorts of crimp/terminal problems we're thinking might be at play in your situation.
    • Just looking at the instructions for these Efi hardware terminals, is anyone able to explain to me why the diameter of the hole must be specifically between 8.1 and 8.2 mm? If the post is 6mm, and you drill say a 7mm hole, how could this possibly cause an issue?  In any case, the more I read these instructions, the more I think I want to give them a go.  https://www.efihardware.com/download/237/866-033_M6_Bulkhead_Terminal_High_Amp
    • Okay it seems there's a slight design difference there with the hex which will do nothing at all. The ones I had were the EFI Solutions round ones. I was able ratchet the nuts with huge torque and they were flat and FIRMLY into it. You could say they became part of the lid, given they physically melted into it. It doesn't get any more firmly attached than that! The heat generated is enough to melt the plastic insulators. I agree, you would think Walbro would use wiring in their own pump with enough gauge to handle the heat their own product creates, but it just doesn't seem to be the case long term. I suppose it's possible that mine only shifted towards the end of their 10 year life before melting through, but that said... it can shift again, a nut can come loose again. The solution is a different type of plug, that is held in mechanically and can't shake loose and self-create a bad connection.
×
×
  • Create New...