Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I need some semi slicks in 255x35x18 size to fit my 9.5" rims.

I've got 18x9.5 rims currently with shitty street 255x35x18 tyres, 265's will fit the rear but the front will most likely hit on the upper suspension arm.

What are equivalent semi slicks to the Yokohama A048's that are available in 255/35/18, 245/35/18 or 245/40/18 ?

Thanks

  On 22/04/2011 at 7:33 PM, R31Nismoid said:

Recovered after Andrew gave your ear the what-for? :D

What rims do you currently have offset wise, that's probably more the issue than tyres.

245 is a bit small for a GTR.

Still some ringing in the right ear :D

I'm looking from a dollar/performance ratio - 265x35x18 A048's delivered are ~$335 ea from www.tirerack.com, I can't justify an extra $200 per tyre to buy a newer model from elsewhere for probably less than a second per lap improvement. I'm running Hankook street tyres now so anything is an improvement.

Current rims have a poor offset - 18x9.5 @ +30mm so the track is too narrow. After some more thought, I think I should do the following:

Buy 9.5" track rims with around +18-22mm offset so the 265x35x18's fit,

Buy a set of R34 GTR rims for street use, since they're 18x9 @ +30mm,

Sell my existing wheels.

Another option for track use, are bolt on spacers safe if I use them on my existing rims?

Cheers

lol very good :D

Well my car was using bolt on spacers and did 2 years of solid track work before i purchased, and it was fine. No issues to speak of and you are talking PI/Sandown so high speed no problems.

I've since taken them off after putting 18's on. So based upon that i think it would be fine.

Or just get some cheap shitter track rims in the right offset. That could easily be done and probably the better overall otherwise you are going to be swapping tyres on rims rather than just rims! (or drive around semis constantly on-street)

RE: tyre choice - ye fair enough. I meant if you were going to spend that amount on those 'other' tyres, you'd be better off buying better ex-US kinda thing on a dollar per dollar basis.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
    • What HVAC actuator is under the steering wheel? Do you mean on the RHS of the centre console, immediately to the left of your shin? If so, then yes, it is probably that one, because that is the mode door actuator, and from what I know, it's still a pain in the arse to replace. I don't know about whole dash out, but you certainly have to rip into the centre console section. I don't know if it's covered in the workshop manual, as I haven't spent much time looking at those parts of it. (and by "the workshop manual, I mean the R32 GTR one, which is the most comprehensive one we have, and it should be similar enough between that and later cars to serve as a guide).
    • ...oops. forgot the TCU end...
    • No I got mine from a friend that had fabricated one … but I had to fit it to my setup which was a hks turbo setup. His was a Garrett -7. So one of my turbos was not a flange for one side … then I had a leak in the welds I had to find a weld shut … in the end the setup was decent priced but I spent a lot to get it fitted. A couple companies I checked would make it but you’re talking 7-9k aud with titanium. No joke mine was 6-7k even second hand after I had to fit it in Hong Kong … labour is expensive here. 
    • I'd just like to restate that I don't think anyone here is actually hating I recently sold a car part to a guy who was building a forged auto R34, with MV stall and aiming at ~450kw. I told him that I'm him, from the future and to stop after it explodes once. I told him I knew he won't listen the first time, and that's fine. But if my predictions do come true - Change direction faster than I did. I also said it's probably no coincidence that the dyno plot of a reliable turbo engine starts to look a lot like a N/A motor. :p
×
×
  • Create New...