Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If anyone is planning on importing i recommend J-Spec. No stuffing around and always keeps you updated on the procedures (very important to me)via email.

If there is any problems he would call up and keep you informed. I am dealing with Ben now and all i can say is what exceptional service he has.

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Before i bought the skyline i have now i had a look up there, was on holidays so thought id look around, bloke there was showin me a few cars and had no idea about them, couldnt even tell me prices, was lookin at a r33 gtr that they had, told me runs beautifully, drives magnifacantly and so on. Went to take it for a test drive and it wouldnt start, got it started so started driving it and the front end was wobbly as f#$k, front kit nearly came off while driving it. then got back to the car yard. before we started it i had checked the oil and water, no oil on dip stick (i pointed that out and then they filled it back up- god knows how long it had been out of oil!) and the water was reallllly low, couldnt see it at all in the radiator (so of course i pointed that out and they filled that up too). after all that i asked him bout prices and he worked one out at $28990, i didnt say a word and jus left. my advice, they dont check theyre cars well enough, they dont know about the cars theyre selling, u point out the problems and they think jus filling it up to where it should be is no problems, and all thproblems the car has has no effect on price, DO NOT BUY FROM THEM, THEY ARE DODGY!!! I experianced this first hand so i hope this helps your decision :rolleyes:

I was referring to "hot" cars, myself.

2x importers' agents in Japan atm are using toothbrush size geiger counters to cursorily go over cars that have possibly come over from the E coast.

If any got detected as "hot" after arriving in Oz, it would have to be buried.

Oh right... hot as in radioactive. My bad, lol.

  • 2 months later...

must say, i have owned 3 cars in my life time, and all of them nissan, first from a private seller, went well no real issues but as it was the N13 with the holden block, it died after a few years, next was from a dealer, spent more then what it was worth, but great little car, still running today, third car, private, again good car, my only advice, shop around, don't put any money down until you have shopped around, taken the car for a spin (either you or the owner taking you [i know some people selling don't want people to drive there car until they hand over cash]), have a look all round, check everything on the car, spend a good hour if you must, but trust me, it is worth taking time to have a proper look at the car before you say yes

I bought my car from edward lees, they wanted 17k for my GTS4 and i offred him 12, i just walked away, he chased me down the road and i said dont make me come back if you going ot waste my time, i ened up getting it for 12k but mate there dodgy as, i think i just got lucky with mine, never again would i buy from them.

The owner was telling me its got real good rubber on the wheels, LOL they were dried and craked SNOW tyers

  • 3 months later...

What's the go with the radioactive cars, is there a health threat? Sorry for the old tread, just looking up various importers. Needless to say, I won't be dealing with Phil when I am ready to buy. Probably go a private car that has been here for a while so I don't get cancer, haha.

Radioactive cars will just save you money in dash and interior bulbs as they light themselves up :cheers:

Everything is being checked at the ports before it is allowed on the ship, and the smart buyers are using portable geiger counters to check the cars. But in speaking to a friend who buys a lot over there, they have never had anything even come close to registering a dangerous reading....

The weird part is they brought in the checks for radioactivity about 4 months AFTER the reactor dramas - it wasn't the Japanese govt feeling like they had a responsibility to the countries they export cars to, it was as a result of the unions of the dock workers in Japan kicking up a stink about them possibly copping regular exposure to nuclear fallout.

I've heard stories from Japan about cars being knocked back (and the level they've set for what's no good is ridiculously low), but none of mine have been, touch wood.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...