Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.

I'm selling my TE37s. The specs are:

Front: 18x9.5 ET22 5x114.3

Rear: 18x10.5 ET22 5x114.3

(In terms of TE37s these are as flush as you can go with standard alignment gear on a Z33 or V35)

The colour is a custom shade of gunmetal, which is a mixture of Nissan gunmetal and Nissan black.

A little bit of gutter-rash. see pics.

forsale_18inchte37_sideshot.jpg

forsale_18inchte37_driverfront_02.jpg

I am keeping the front tyres. The rear tyres are Falken FK452 285/35 R18.

I will also include new Volk/RAYS stickers (not genuine, but a really good copy), in either blue or black.

I am also keeping the centre caps.

More pics can be found here:

http://www.au-z.org/gallery/v/forsale/18inchte37/

Asking $2500 ONO. Will ship interstate at the buyer's expense.

PMs have been replied to.

As for the flat spot, I'm pretty sure it's there. I have no idea if its just the flange that's bent or the whole barrel. I had the tyres fitted at the end of last year, and the guys at Tyrepower didn't mention anything about the balancing being out.

I have 2 sets of 18s where I only need 1 for the track, so I'm also putting up my Nismo LM GT4s. Only one of the two sets will be sold, so whichever attracts the highest offer will be the ones to go.

The link to the sale thread for the LM GT4s is here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/362194-fs-genuine-nismo-lm-gt4s-18x90-22/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • IMG_8641.mov     She doesn’t sound the best but starts with out using any gas now. I just ran some injector cleaner through her. started roughly the first time after adding it but gave it the beans slowly upto 4k, Must have cleaned a few cobwebs out. another step in the right direction for the sub
    • Sadly I can confirm if you are actually seeking to drift, you will quite easily spin up one wheel. Even if you're going in a straight line. I am not entirely sure of the metrics/terminology here but there's only a certain amount that the helical will actually spin both wheels. I've seen it on video with my own car where two lines of smoke switch over to just one after you really get in to it. Unlike with a clutch diff where you can keep your foot planted until the car regains grip, in my experience with the helical you want to be utilizing traction control allowing LIMITED slip or lifting (partially) when you start to spin up both tyres with a Nissan helical. Which makes them pretty sub optimal for drifting duty. That said... this is probably a helical on numbers alone. Just put the Kazz in
    • Let's just fix the problem by f**king the rest of the gearbox.
    • Unlikely, as per Greg's post. This is not helical diff behaviour unless one wheel is up off the ground. Shimming what? You don't "shim" a mechanical LSD. Probably not in the sense that you have heard of people "shimming" a diff. And the process that Nissan f**kwits call "shimming" a diff involves super-preloading a VLSD cartridge against the side of the diff to create a friction/wear point (in a place that it wasn't supposed to have one) to make the sloppy, useless, viscous diff into a hybrid viscous/mech abortion. In case it isn't clear, I consider the process to be stupid. Nike.
    • How much does the shifter move when the car is in gear with the engine off? If it is more than about 1cm you need to replace your shifter bush. Your shifts will just get crunchier, not faster, with a short shifter unless you also rebuild the whole box
×
×
  • Create New...