Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  On 25/04/2011 at 5:08 AM, Count Grantleyish said:

Best street combination for stock motor IMHO, much better than -7s.

Bollocks :nyaanyaa: A *little* better than -7s when you're over 300kws otherwise SFA difference.

I'm 305kw @17psi with -7s.

OP;

- turbos are key part of the equation, no sense in getting -5s just because they're cheaper. You get them if you want 380kws. For 300 they're a bad choice.

- if you're ever going to do dumps, do them now, but you could just as well not bother. If you look at cost/benefit, -7s without dumps will be much better than -5s with dumps for around the same cost.

- when i checked pricing, -7s were $400 cheaper for the pair than -9s with new actuators. Dont use old actuators....

- you're thinking about cams (waste) but maybe buying -5s to save a little money? That doesn't make sense. You need to let us know how tight the money is and what results you want.

Option 1 - 280kw - cheap; -7s, cam gears, stock dumps, injectors, AFMs

Option 2 - 330kw - medium; -9s, cam gears, 550 injectors, nismo AFMs

Option 3 - 380kw - exxy; -5s, cam gears, 700 injectors, nismo AFMs, dumps, oh and BUILT MOTOR and gearbox upgrade to keep 3rd gear in one piece....

And Nismoid's exhaust rule;

300kw = 3 in

350kw = 3.5 in

400kw = 4 in

  On 25/04/2011 at 5:18 AM, Piggaz said:

Grant. As good of a result that people have good power with stock dumps...there would have to be more to be made with a larger... Ie tomei, midori dump pipe.

True, but kinda pointless if you only want 300rwkw or so, which I've done with success before.

But next time I may go for a pair of a/m dumps and see if it make any difference.

To much MrStabby thats uesfull stuff

Lets say your running 300kw on -9s and the engine goes after a year,then a rebuild is taken place, forged bottom end.and you wanna run 400kw that means you gotta buy -5s and sell of your -9 in away your loseing money ?so is it better of to get -5s striaght away?

its basically the same thing

the nismo is z32 hotwire inside 65mm shell

the z32 is 80mm z32 airflow meter

so more or less the same

but in a twin setup the twin nismos will give you more resolution in low load area as the snout is smaller

  On 25/04/2011 at 7:17 AM, nitestage32 said:

Lets say your running 300kw on -9s and the engine goes after a year,then a rebuild is taken place, forged bottom end.and you wanna run 400kw that means you gotta buy -5s and sell of your -9 in away your loseing money ?so is it better of to get -5s striaght away?

I'd buy -9s and enjoy while it's there.

Buy -5s when the motor is out, people still will buy -9s even if used.

Pretty sure Ash will say the same.

Hey R33GTRNZ i think we;re on the same boat im from NZ to,im after a pair of -9s,was looking at some 2nd hand N1 turbos might be the cheaper option,i do wanna run 400kw but not with the stock motor and also dont wanna rebuild a perfect running engine :rant:

Edited by nitestage32
  On 25/04/2011 at 7:17 AM, nitestage32 said:

To much MrStabby thats uesfull stuff

Lets say your running 300kw on -9s and the engine goes after a year,then a rebuild is taken place, forged bottom end.and you wanna run 400kw that means you gotta buy -5s and sell of your -9 in away your loseing money ?so is it better of to get -5s striaght away?

Depends on what you want and stuff mate.

Nothing wrong with running -9s on a built motor. It'll make a solid 330rwkw, be responsive as all buggery and be an absolute street weapon. So if thats all you want then you'll not need to change turbos!

I've got 370rwkw now with -5s... I'd rather the response of -9s and 330-340rwkw. Admittedly I'm running less boost on the -5s than i could but response is king for a street car and makes it so much nicer to drive.

I don't dislike my -5 setup. However nothing really happens until 150km/h where the -9s were much more exciting between 60-150km/h

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 馃
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
  • Create New...