Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

JDM R35 2 1/2 years old

Tried to start it about 3 weeks ago, the battery was a bit low as I hadn't used the car for 2 months.

First it wouldn't start. all dash light on,

starter button nothing, but the headlights came on, and the headlight switch could not turn them off.

Then it finally started,but It wold stop.

Tried disconecting the battery, car still running, headlight still on, no way to stop it,apart from clamping a fuel line.

Tok it for a drive, after about 6 kms the headlights went off.

drove for 12 kms, stopped, and the starter switch stopped the car and it started again normally.

Everything operating as new again.

Tried to start it again yesterday, dash lights on, headlights on again, starter switch nothing.

Disconected the battery, dash light and headlight off.

So I charged the battery over night and tried again this morning, same thing again , dash and headlight on but it won't start.

Had to disconected the battery to turn the lights off.

Help Help any ideas all please???????

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362025-help-r35-gone-crazy-again/
Share on other sites

Thanks guys but it's not the battery.

Battery shows 12.9 volts plus tried a jump starter as well.

why are the headlight coming on?

Why wonldn't the engine turn off when it was running?

It must be to do with the can bus system somewhere.

might need a consult 3 to check it out.

Thanks guys but it's not the battery.

Battery shows 12.9 volts plus tried a jump starter as well.

why are the headlight coming on?

Why wonldn't the engine turn off when it was running?

It must be to do with the can bus system somewhere.

might need a consult 3 to check it out.

Batteries can show 14V and still be stuffed, especially after sitting around unused then quickly charged

Batteries can show 14V and still be stuffed, especially after sitting around unused then quickly charged

I agree but I have a multi meter on it and when I press the start button the voltage doesen't change, just silence.

OK the puzzle contunies

reconnect battery but first check current draw as it sparks a little as I connect and disconnect.

doors open interior light (door0 on close door? no windows up

reconect battry lower windows a bit close doors, check current draw .4 amps.

reconnect battery check for fault codes with cob

Troubleshoot reports "no codes"

ignition is on so I press the start button

this it goes off

Soooo try again and foot on brake MAGIC it start and press button again it stops

ALL fixed working perfectly again.

TILL NEXT TIME

this car is a worry

Thanks again Martin for trying

Jeff

Its not over yet.....(the trying)

Take the battery out of the car (disconnect it) for 5 minutes and reboot the CAN bus.

I have had it disconnected all night as I had it on charge.

still had the same "no start" problem.

and why do the headlight come on and won't turn off

It's all a mystery

You should Water Spray those brakes..... :)

Two things I would do -

Replace battery just for the fun of it - stop any stray noise potentially on the CAN bus.

Secondly drop the Steering Lock and lubricate the firing pin

I know none of this makes any sense - but give it a go :)

You should Water Spray those brakes..... :)

Two things I would do -

Replace battery just for the fun of it - stop any stray noise potentially on the CAN bus.

Secondly drop the Steering Lock and lubricate the firing pin

I know none of this makes any sense - but give it a go :)

they sound like long shots to me

but I repect your experience with these cars

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Damn it, I was at work last night, and stayed in a room there during the storm with the car outside, but undercover, I just went downstairs and well....there was a large steel locker that has come from some place last night, it wasn't anywhere I could see yesterday, and yeap, it landed on the fraking car....of course it did..... LOL So, I'll need to take it back for paint and panel, luckily it was only the boot that took the hit, so it could have been worse Serves me right for staying at work and getting on the cans with some of the boys
    • Yeah, really happy with how it all turned out As for aftermarket lip, nah, I'm not really a fan for practically reasons on a street car that gets driven everywhere  I did have the full lower kit on my 2015 STI, but found the front lip scrapped alot, even at stock 4x4ish ride height As the NC sits now, with the lowest point of the car at 110mm, so just legal, some steep driveways and steep speed humps will still "just" scrap those little plastic OEM air dam thingies on the undertray just before the front wheels
    • Here's one I help build and tuned a decade ago, Garrett  GTX3071R Gen 1, T3 twin scroll 0.83 rear housing. Went from larger 272 cams down to smaller Tomei Poncams to help with the low end. S13 non VCT motor. Car was purpose built for the track, hence low down was the focus. Note the actual dyno chart shows lower boost, however the EBC and boost gauge showed 1.9Bar (Ignore the torque, I was young and didn't know how to set derived torque)  
    • I’m doing some side developments on SR20det S13 engines, its one my hobby cars used it to compare flow capacity of some smaller size wheels. SR20det is one of another JDM legendary engines I'm sure there are plenty of SR enthusiasts on this forum, I will share results some common turbo configurations here. a quick run down of what the car is: Wide body 180sx Type X with black top engine (blue). It has: Stock bottom end Haltech 1500 ECU 5-0 motorsports trigger kit Kelford SR20DET Beehive Spring with Titanium Retainers Kelford Cams SR20DET S13 188-B 268/272 Cams G25-660 Turbocharger in T2 .64 rear housing internally gated ARP Head studs MLS head gasket 1000CC ID injectors Walbro 450L Fuel pump Front mount cooler kit JJR’s 3 inches turbo back exhaust (its too short for the 180sx it had to be extended) Pump 98 fuel Hub Dyno tune So far made 270rwkws at 22psi full boost by 4500RPM. Engine is very knock limited hence a pretty bad looking top end. From previous experiences it seems like SR20dets are happier with bigger size turbine, some thing like a GT30 would make way better top end, but on same time response is lost. It won't be a problem with S15 VCT engines. I'll be testing alternative turbine housing, turbine wheel and possibly dump pipe options for extra flow to resolve the problem and of course E85 would resolve all the issues.            
    • Awesome writeup and details. Thanks for sharing the story so far. I can relate to parts of it with my previous car and some of the issues I had to deal with.
×
×
  • Create New...