Jump to content
SAU Community

Help R35 Gone Crazy Again

targa

By targa,
in R35 GTR

 Share

Recommended Posts

targa Enthusiast

targa

Posted
Posted

JDM R35 2 1/2 years old

Tried to start it about 3 weeks ago, the battery was a bit low as I hadn't used the car for 2 months.

First it wouldn't start. all dash light on,

starter button nothing, but the headlights came on, and the headlight switch could not turn them off.

Then it finally started,but It wold stop.

Tried disconecting the battery, car still running, headlight still on, no way to stop it,apart from clamping a fuel line.

Tok it for a drive, after about 6 kms the headlights went off.

drove for 12 kms, stopped, and the starter switch stopped the car and it started again normally.

Everything operating as new again.

Tried to start it again yesterday, dash lights on, headlights on again, starter switch nothing.

Disconected the battery, dash light and headlight off.

So I charged the battery over night and tried again this morning, same thing again , dash and headlight on but it won't start.

Had to disconected the battery to turn the lights off.

Help Help any ideas all please???????

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362025-help-r35-gone-crazy-again/
Share on other sites
targa Enthusiast

targa

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks guys but it's not the battery.

Battery shows 12.9 volts plus tried a jump starter as well.

why are the headlight coming on?

Why wonldn't the engine turn off when it was running?

It must be to do with the can bus system somewhere.

might need a consult 3 to check it out.

zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

Thanks guys but it's not the battery.

Battery shows 12.9 volts plus tried a jump starter as well.

why are the headlight coming on?

Why wonldn't the engine turn off when it was running?

It must be to do with the can bus system somewhere.

might need a consult 3 to check it out.

Batteries can show 14V and still be stuffed, especially after sitting around unused then quickly charged

targa Enthusiast

targa

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Batteries can show 14V and still be stuffed, especially after sitting around unused then quickly charged

I agree but I have a multi meter on it and when I press the start button the voltage doesen't change, just silence.

targa Enthusiast

targa

Posted
  • Author
Posted

OK the puzzle contunies

reconnect battery but first check current draw as it sparks a little as I connect and disconnect.

doors open interior light (door0 on close door? no windows up

reconect battry lower windows a bit close doors, check current draw .4 amps.

reconnect battery check for fault codes with cob

Troubleshoot reports "no codes"

ignition is on so I press the start button

this it goes off

Soooo try again and foot on brake MAGIC it start and press button again it stops

ALL fixed working perfectly again.

TILL NEXT TIME

this car is a worry

Thanks again Martin for trying

Jeff

targa Enthusiast

targa

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Its not over yet.....(the trying)

Take the battery out of the car (disconnect it) for 5 minutes and reboot the CAN bus.

I have had it disconnected all night as I had it on charge.

still had the same "no start" problem.

and why do the headlight come on and won't turn off

It's all a mystery

Martin Donnon Mentor

Martin Donnon

Posted
Posted

You should Water Spray those brakes..... :)

Two things I would do -

Replace battery just for the fun of it - stop any stray noise potentially on the CAN bus.

Secondly drop the Steering Lock and lubricate the firing pin

I know none of this makes any sense - but give it a go :)

targa Enthusiast

targa

Posted
  • Author
Posted

You should Water Spray those brakes..... :)

Two things I would do -

Replace battery just for the fun of it - stop any stray noise potentially on the CAN bus.

Secondly drop the Steering Lock and lubricate the firing pin

I know none of this makes any sense - but give it a go :)

they sound like long shots to me

but I repect your experience with these cars

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ozdavroz
      R32 owner from ACT

      By Ozdavroz · Posted

      A few more recent pics
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      NC MX5

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      full send the cnut, do this   fark the wrapping and/or stick on siet. These guys are the ones to go to: https://www.realthermo.com.au/  
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      How "plug and play" is the Haltech Pro for R33 GTST

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Just had a look, they don't. Fuelling on the base map is purely alpha-N, and the ignition table is MAP. Remember it's just a base map to get the car moving  
    • Ozdavroz
      R32 owner from ACT

      By Ozdavroz · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m Dave from Canberra. Here's a few pics of my 1992 R32 GTST coupe which I imported back in 2006. Only mods so far are HKS Hi-power cat back exhaust, K&N filter, ATC Volanti steering wheel, Pioneer stereo, amp and sub. This was my daily driver up until 2015 and sadly hasn’t been driven at all in the last 5 years due to marriage, work, and kids taking up most of my time and spare cash.As such its in need of a bit of TLC and one of my goals for this year is to get it back to running condition and maybe look into club/historic rego. I’ve joined SAU so I can ask a few questions along the way (although I promise to google Current Problem +SAU beforehand!)
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      From talking to the mx5 guys the NC doesn't actually need bonnet vents like the earlier NA and NB models, due to a better designed cooling system and undertray design There's plenty of them used as street cars and weekend track toys running anywhere from around 170 to 250kw with stock non vented bonnets, I initially was going to get some bonnet vents, but, as they are not actually required, I'll put vents on hold for a while and just monitor temps, though I do need to get something to actually monitor engine oil temps though, coolant temp can be pulled from the OBD2, but the oil gauge in the car is not actual oil temp, it is only a calculation based off coolant temp and RPM ☹️ They do recommend upgrading the radiator, which I have already done with a triple pass, and the only other thing they recommend for a street car is heat management, like I talked about above to protect bits in the engine bay from radiant heat, and to either replace the nearly 20 year old plastic coolant expansion tank, which I have done, or get a aftermarket alloy jobbie for some bling They did also say that if I wanted to track the car on occasion a oil cooler and sump baffle would be required, and as I already have had a sump baffle installed when the engine was out......... I'm going to get a oil cooler with a thermostat....... just in case I do eventually track the car, but probably not, but still maybe...🤪
×
×
  • Create New...