Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For Sale my 1994 R33 GTS-T, series 1.

Item Summary: 1994 R33 GTS-T, series 1.

Location: Traralgon, VIC

Odometer: 142,853 kilometres

Engine only done 230klms since rebuild

Asking Price: $14,200 negotiable

Engine Modifications:

Complete Full Rebuild by Sabbadin Automotive, Mulgrave

Nitto JE Piston and Rings Set

Spool Conrods

ACL Main Bearings

ACL Big End Bearings

ARP Head Studs

Full Bottom End Machining

Cylinder Head Full Reconditioning

Cam Belt Timing Kit

Machined Flywheel

Heavy Duty Organic Clutch Kit

Other Modifications:

LINK Ecu Computer

Buddy Club P1 Wheels / Hankook Ventus Sport K104 Tyres

Rear: 265/30 ZR19

Front 235/35 ZR19

Front Mount Intercooler

Rebuilt Standard Turbo - Ball Bearing

3" Mandrel Turbo Exhaust

Hi-Flow Catalytic Converter

R400 Side Skirts and Rear Bumper

Koni Adjustable Shockers and Struts

CUSCO Engine Strut Bar

Splitfire Ignition Coils

AutoMeter Oil Pressure Gauge

AutoMeter Boots Gauge

Momo Sports Steering Wheel

Momo Gear Knob

Indiglow Dash Instruments

Pioneer DEH-P6350 Head Unit

Coustic 160SE 2-Channel Amplifier

Pioneer TS-E1695 Speakers

HKS Super Drager Muffler

GTR Adjustable Rear Wing

New Catapillar Battery

Turbo Timer

Tinted Windows

Car duco is immaculate, has been recently resprayed.

Registration has expired.

All engine rebuild reciepts available as proof of work carried out on car....

Inspections welcomed

Asking price 14,200 negotiable

Contact Dale - 0423 776 507

post-29747-0-98786700-1303788946_thumb.jpg

post-29747-0-93457200-1303788989_thumb.jpg

post-29747-0-49811600-1303789024_thumb.jpg

post-29747-0-91972600-1303789064_thumb.jpg

post-29747-0-34499800-1303789093_thumb.jpg

post-29747-0-02835100-1303789130_thumb.jpg

post-29747-0-59171800-1303789155_thumb.jpg

post-29747-0-24383200-1303789181_thumb.jpg

post-29747-0-15328100-1303789214_thumb.jpg

post-29747-0-17775900-1303789244_thumb.jpg

Edited by Actinide1979
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362151-r33-gts-t-series-1/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you go about diagnosing ecu's that don't have data logging, is it more experience at that point and just trying out things that you think will fix the issue?
    • Stock O2 are basically useless beyond anything at stoich. Any misfire will also be seen as lean. The stock O2 also read a collective exhaust gas volume, not each cylinder. Sputtering and missing means not each cycle is firing, and some are. Which means even if rich, as shit, on cylinders as they miss, they'll read lean, but the cylinders that did fire will read rich, and combined, well, they can read anything from rich to lean.   Start with the basics before even going looking at sensor values.   Edit: I say the above, and that's coming from the guy with a few thousand dollars worth of scan tools sitting right beside me right now that I use frequently for my job.
    • I just finished up a manual swap and I have a 1999 S2 AWD automatic in my garage, depending on where you are located. I'm in the the midwest of the US.
    • I’ve heard it can be done, you need to redrill the holes where they bolt to the chassis and apart from that they are the same. I’ve never done it or know anyone personally that has, it’s just something I’ve heard 
    • If it's reading full rich prior to a misfire that gives one directional hint, if it's already reading lean, etc. If it's reading pretty cleanly stoichiometric then suddenly drops out from a misfire that suggests it's not air mass estimation that's the problem. Could be ignition, could be something more subtle. Could be the CAS has decided to start dropping out at random or the drive pin is worn leading to excessive lash and trigger errors. LTFT can tell you the same but it's slower to react and if this is a recent issue it might not have stabilized. STFT stuck in one direction vs fluctuating back and forth can be used instead but I like to read O2 voltages anyways and interpret directly. If the O2 voltages make no sense in general or are super slow to react it could also be a failing O2 sensor. There's no real error correction for failing O2 sensors in these cars.
×
×
  • Create New...