Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

If you can do this cost effective with your effort and parts you could make some good money.

Nobody who has a leaky ABS wants to buy 2nd hand and new the price is out of this world.

Some even remove ABS all together after getting a leak.

It seems that in my case it was working, it just had some leaks. Tomorrow I should have it all back together if I get the rest of the orings. Not all the orings could be replaced at this stage.

If I can get hold of some 9mm ID x 1.5 EPDM and some 008Q EPDM quad rings that will only leave 1 part which will have to be ever so slightly modified to accept an off the shelf round oring.


Unfortunately trying to fix these units can be like chasing your tail; most of our customers have ended up removing the ABS all together. If you'd like a quote on the components require (new master, lines, brackets...) drop me a line.

Cheers,

Andrew

im just wondering why do you need o rings for? the brake lines do you need to cut or it can be bend to make it fit?

Oo la la! nearly done. Oring shop forgot one oring and 2 others are not fitting well.

I am rebuilding my R32 GTR ABS unit. The orings are so old they are no longer round and no longer sealing properly.

If your talking about the R34 GTR ABS unit then you need to make new lines. Google up some pics of R32 and R34 GTR engine bays and you will be able to spot the differences.

now only to figure out the proper wiring >_<

I am rebuilding my R32 GTR ABS unit. The orings are so old they are no longer round and no longer sealing properly.

If your talking about the R34 GTR ABS unit then you need to make new lines. Google up some pics of R32 and R34 GTR engine bays and you will be able to spot the differences.

The rebuilt ABS unit is back in and (partially) bled. Took it for a spin around the block and will check for leaks tomorrow.

To bleed it properly the ABS unit needs to be operated while it's being bled with pressure. When you start the car it runs the ABS motor, but I'm not sure if its actuating the solenoids.I have a feeling these were pre-bled at the factory then installed.

Next step is to monitor the ABS with an oscilloscope so I can make a bleeding tool. Then I can bench test whole unit :)

  • Like 2

Touche :)

I went through every o-ring that was needed, measured the grooves they sit in and used an o-ring calculator to calculate what o-rings would give the optimum squish then measured all of the new o-rings once they were in their respective grooves to ensure that they were what I calculated. Any o-ring I put in has squeeze within a certain range so that the o-ring will seal and not tear from over compression.

Something I cam across while fiddling with the ABS was that some ABS pumps, probably later ones, had a different design of check valve that aren't prone to leaking. The ones that leak easily are a poor design. I have one which I will pull apart to see if they did anything different internally.

Edited by dontfeelcold

have you tested if the abs kick in and there is no air in the lines?

Yes, in a safe place, but I already bled the entire ABS unit, so there is no air whatsoever in it.

ABS is not leaking and I managed to fully bleed it. Had to power up the abs motor and the solenoids and then you can bleed it properly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all. I am aware there is lots of discussions about jacking points, where to lift the car and what not. But as usual just a lot of "in my opinion" and nothing definitive, and everyone does it in a different way. I want to hear from some experienced people on which points on the car it's okay/safe/recommended to lift the car using a four point hoist/lift. I will attach some images of my underbody. Sills are largely okayish, the driver side jacking point is pretty mangled though and it looks like the underfloor is slightly pushed in too, but I might be wrong. In the German Skyline forum, the consensus is to use the sidemember chassis rails in the front and the rear subframe? bushing in the rear. I know the manual says to never use the sidemember for loading but lots of folk do it and it was definitely done on my car too as they are slightly bent too. Based on the images, what points do I use to not make the already present damage worse? I'd use wood or rubber blocks to spread the load across a bigger area of course. Driver side sidemember and jacking point mangled one) https://imgur.com/a/eKjzrJX Driver side rear jacking point https://imgur.com/a/W3DWF1P Passenger side sidemember and jacking point https://imgur.com/a/65UvIJe Passenger side rear jacking point https://imgur.com/a/h3k7j53 We can also see some underbody rust but so far it all looks somewhat treatable and nothing that requires a Yoshida style restoration.
    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
×
×
  • Create New...