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I AM CONDSIDERING A SUPERCHARGER STAGE 3 OR A TWIN TURBO KIT STAGE 3 FROM GTM IN SO CALI.

I WOULD GREATLY APPRECIATE ANY AND ALL OPINION REGARDING THE BEST CHOICE AND WHY.

THE AMERICAN SC/TT ARE TUNED AT 91 OR 93 FUEL, WILL USING 98 OCTANE GAS BE A PROBLEM HERE?

MY CAR IS A 2005 V35 AUTO WITH 35K

I HAVE NO MODS ON THE CAR AT ALL AND MY LAST CAR WAS A 96 GTST SII WITH 261 RWKW AND I WILL KEEP THE CAN CLOSED!!

I AM LOOKING TO GET WITH THE SC 260 TO 280 RWKW BECAUSE THE LIMIT IS CLOSE TO 325 RWKW.

BRIAN

PS: IF I HAVE MISSED ANY INFORMATION PLEASE LIST THAT INFORMATION AND THANKS FOR YOUR HELP!!!!

Edited by wizlb
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you'll need some kind of aftermarket engine management anyway so tuning it to our fuel won't be an issue if you source the ecu locally & have a decent tuner

I was thinking about this as well If I was to keep this car for the long run, especially with the exchange rate with the US being what it is. I don't like how with the G37 the intakes pretty much have to sit at the bottom of the front bumper behind the front vents I'd be too scared of hydrolock with that kinda setup, but that's just me

maybe even try getting a quote from GCG turbos in sydney to see what they'd charge?

Note that the US doesn't use RON to measure their ignition resistance. They use AKI instead. Which means their 91 and 93 AKI numbers that their gas stations quote can't be directly compared with our 91, 95, and 98 RON figures.

91 AKI is basically equivalent to 95 RON, and 93 AKI is close enough to 98 RON.

Theoretically you'd be safe based on the American experience with those kits with the equivalent fuel, but I would assume that any forced induction kit will be paired with a programmable ECU. At that point it's up to your tuner to make the software tune safe for local conditions. Everything else is just dumb pipes, and its irrelevant where you sourced those tubes from in terms of engine safety.

Edited by scathing

Yo-Yo

scathing

Hey Guys I wanted to thank you for you help and I now need to decide a SC or TT kit.

The guy in the states GTM Motorsports has ppl shipping there cars from around the world to him and he also ship kits globally

Hey Wizlib what's the cost for the setup?

Yo-Yo

scathing

Hey Guys I wanted to thank you for you help and I now need to decide a SC or TT kit.

The guy in the states GTM Motorsports has ppl shipping there cars from around the world to him and he also ship kits globally

Spending 10k on forced induction is a massive cost esp when you have the auto.

You're quite right BUT it will cost a lot more than $10k to do twin turbo properly.

Edited by mosoto

If you guys go to www.gtmotorsports.com you will find the prices are not as high as you are saying here.

You can get a HKS kit for $4900 and GTM Twin Turbo set up for $5700.

The prices from GTM are pretty and when you look at the builded you are finding the power pretty close to GTR's here.

What I am trying to determine is SC or TT and I believe it will be a SC for just pure reliability and if I am about to get 265 to 285 RWKW I would be pretty happy.

Cobey

im currently doing a Single turbo HKS FI install on my car... will more than likely install a Haltech Ecu

Where did you get you ST from and what did you pay for it

Are you in Sydney and if so who is installing it...PM me that part

what power range are you looking for from the ST

Brian

Edited by wizlb

It will cost you nearly $11.5k just for TT Kit + GST/duties + Freight + installation alone and that is just for the base TT setup and ECU.

Start adding Fuel system upgrade, Exhaust, fully programmable ECU, Rods, Clutch kit etc etc and the price starts getting pretty exy.

Like I said, for TT you need to do the job properly to get the best out of the setup and provide longevity from the drivetrain otherwise you'll piss your money down the drain.

Do the research on G35 driver or 6MT and the concensus is that slap a TT on a stock block and you will eventually bend rods thru neglect or misuse of the boost control.

Personally I think displacement is the most reliable means of power. The Nissan Titan V8's (VK50 or VK56) will give you more power, torque and reliability than a SC setup and will probably cost about the same installed.

Personally I think displacement is the most reliable means of power. The Nissan Titan V8's (VK50 or VK56) will give you more power, torque and reliability than a SC setup and will probably cost about the same installed.

do you mean including the cost of the motor as well? I wonder how much of a weight difference there would be between the VK & The VQ

yes PJ. A good VK56 will cost around $4k so by the time you factor in tranny adapter, ECU & installation it may be a comparable option to supercharging the V. It apparently fits.

The only grey area would be making it legal.

Do the research on G35 driver or 6MT and the concensus is that slap a TT on a stock block and you will eventually bend rods thru neglect or misuse of the boost control.

But that's user error more than anything else. Any FI motor will shit itself through neglect or overboosting.

I know a few guys in Aus who daily drove their TT Z33s with stock motors without issue for years. They didn't need to baby them like they were rotaries, and they'd take them out on the track on a regular basis.

They are NA internals, so they're engineered for lightness so the engine will rev freely rather than strong to handle big cylinder pressures. As long as you keep the boost down it'll last. On the V35 I'd also consider an aftermarket front bar - compared to the Z33 there's not as much airflow to the radiator and so heat is more of a concern.

But to do FI properly will cost you a reasonable wedge. Aside from the blower kit itself, you'll need at least a new clutch and new diff. I'd also be looking at wider tyres and bigger brakes, especially if I didn't have Brembos.

I know a few guys in Aus who daily drove their TT Z33s with stock motors without issue for years. They didn't need to baby them like they were rotaries, and they'd take them out on the track on a regular basis.

No doubt. But to spend so much on a conservative tune and not realise the full potential of the turbo setup is in my eyes a WOFTAM.

theres a guy on zclub.com that had the TT kit from GTM installed into his 370z. There was a significant amount of refabrication.

Also he mentioned that he went for the smallest turbo's GTM had, and he found the turbo lag excessive, and thats with the 3.7L.

Also problems with oil and H2O temps occured.

He had a workshop in melbourne do the install. Properly setup, I couldnt see much change out of 15-20K.

No doubt. But to spend so much on a conservative tune and not realise the full potential of the turbo setup is in my eyes a WOFTAM.

Power's only useful if you can put it down. I see sinking a buttload of cash into a reliable 500rwkW street car to be just as much of a WOFTAM, considering it's going to light up 4th if you're a little too rushed on the gearchange. The way I see it, the money you're spending is there to realise the full potential of your engine and driveline setup.

I've driven Z33s with the APS TT, HKS ST and HKS SC and the 260-280rwkW it makes is more than enough for something you're not doing motorsports in. You can floor it in any gear with S-Comps and it'll have perfect traction, and while you still need to use a bit of sense when applying the throttle out of a corner it's not a razor-edge line between getting it around the bend and leaving half your tyres smeared on the road. With the high compression they also get better fuel economy than stock, and its still very responsive off-boost.

If you want to drop a buttload of cash on a car that is maximising its turbo set, buy a R34 GT-R so you can at least convert it all to forward momentum rather than heat, smoke, and smell.

on this topic, does anyone know the suitability of the 35's manual diff for turbocharging applications???

I wouldn't. I can't remember if V35s run open or VLSDs (I think it depends on the model), but the Z33s all run VLSDs stock and TT owners inevitably go looking for a new diff.

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