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Item Summary: 1993 NISSAN SILVIA , SR20DET

Location: QLD: Brisbane Northside - near Kallangur

Odometre: 151,xxx kilometres

Asking Price: $6,500

Contact Info: [email protected] or PM for mobile number

Silver/grey 2 tone

redtop SR20det

FMIC

split dump pipe

full 3 inch exhaust

hks cams and gears (previous owners info - I have not confirmed)

Z32 AFM

metal intake pipe

HKS Pod filter

Cheap and nasty but effective cold air intake

Electric thermo fan

NEW radiator overflow tank (the one in the engine bay pic with yellow tape on it is gone and replaced by brand new one)

Chipped ecu and tuned

Heavy duty clutch

17X7 front rims

17x8 rears

KYB Damper adjustable shocks

RSR Springs

Front Nismo Strut Brace

Gauges for Boost, Oil Pressure and Exhaust temp

Turbosmart dual stage boost controller

R33 GTST front seats

The bad.

Front and rear bumper has some paint chips as can be seen in pics.

Turbo water line is leaking coolant (have braided lines that will be sold with the car for coolant and oil lines).

The good.

All of the above

+ working air con

+ working speedo and tacho (seems rare for some reason)

+ Body is very straight compared to most S13's of the same price.

I have the stock grill, the stock indicators, the stock pods, the stock rear wing etc.

Would prefer straight sale but will consider swaps with r32/33/34 skyline coupe or sedan.

pics:

FrontLeft.jpg

Front.jpg

RightRear.jpg

Right.jpg

EngineBay.jpg

here are the new lines to go with the car.

IMG00119-20110419-1747.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362377-93-s13-silvia-sr20det/
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    • The brakes are all stock bar some DBA slotted discs and the EBC pads and braided lines. The car has brake ducts as standard but they're kinda pointed in the general direction of the brakes rather than really getting at the heat source. I guess I should hit it with an infra red thermometer after a session and see what they're at.  100%! Its just a curiosity more than anything. As I said, high temp brake fluid was such a track day rage back in the day. From people I speak to at the track and threads on here everybody has their own take on it but I'm not gonna scoff at spending a few more bucks. 
    • I've always approached this as, price is comparable between low temp and high temp fluid. Just put in the high temp fluid. I've not going to lose any sleep thinking about could I have saved $20 on brake fluid that is going to live in the car over the next 2 to 3 years. 
    • Nah, the creases were pretty large, and the sheet metal is pretty thin and hard to work out, time alone is in the hours to fix, and would probably have more bog than I would be happy with In other, more happy news, I gave MX5 Mania a call and they have a few clean boots available for $400 a peice, I've contacted Fineline and given them their contact details, I'm a idiot for not thinking of them sooner
    • That really depends on how hot the brakes get and how much of any heat is transferred into the fluid. That really makes it at least a vehicle specific question, and more than like a specific vehicle specific question, depending on what brakes (ie stock, bigger rotors, different calipers) or even what pads are on it. And then there's the question of cooling air. Is there plenty stock? Is there no special cooling arrangements stock? Has some/more been added? In other words, I think you have to do the experiment to obtain the data. And if you;re worried - tie on some ducting?
    • In all the track days I've done over the past few months I've only had 1 issue with braking and thats with my current EBC pads (can't remember the colour, but they're not a track pad). I don't *think* I have had issues with brake fluid getting too hot, my understanding is that when that happens you will have quite noticeable brake loss - which I haven't had.  I'm using just regular ol' Penrite Super DOT4 fluid. I use this fluid in everything and my cars always seem to stop so I see no reason to change, except ... for the 335i. I need to do a fluid flush and was thinking about my fluid of choice and wondering if I should consider using something more high temp? Its not a super fast car by any standards but I'd hate to do a flush and then find myself with no brakes when I get. to Wakefield.  I guess, my question can be summed up as "How fast do you need to be driving to need higher temp brake fluid?"  I remember high temp fluid was considered a must have back in the day when I had my GTR. 
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