Jump to content
SAU Community

Na Drag Race

Grey

By Grey,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 165
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

SKITTLES Experienced

SKITTLES

Posted
Posted

Hi guys before you start telling me off about how illegal and dangerous and bad it is to do so, I'm just asking for some opinions and thoughts about my question, not the ethics behind it, thanks.

So tonight, I dragged my manual stock 99' R34 coupe against my mate's stock 97' ej8 Honda civic and barely beat him. He's running a 1.6L single cam engine, while I have a 2.5L twin cam rb25de....what amazes me is that he kept up and I just barely won at about 120km/h. Then he kept telling me how he didn't get a good start, here's how I started off the line. Revved to 4k RPM, as soon as the light went green I dumped the clutch and floored the gas changing gears as fast as I could at around 7000 rpm. My tires lost traction after about 10metres and I had to adjust my steering wheel left and right to keep the car straight. I could see him in my peripheral vision and in the end I beat him. Now are NA skylines really that slow that they can't even match a puny car like an old civic? I can't imagine what a drag against an integra type R or even an S would be like, totally smoking an NA skyline, how embarrassing.

In the car I also had my mate who weighed 80kG if that makes a difference?

Are NA skylines really that much of a heavy slow car that eats fuel and is shit at drags?

How would my car compare to other N/A cars in stock if it were identically skilled drivers?

Any thoughts please?

Thanks.

You're doing it wrong.

> Hey nafags

> Today i f**ked this ricer piece of shit civic in a race... f**king burner bro... full thought he was king shit with vtec

> f**ked him up mate

> anyways my cars f**king slow whys that?

either that or just don't mention it was a street race?

"So we were at the drags and we did *blah*"

Do you REALLY think anyones going to know any different?

I know people who "go to the drags" every weekend for three years, yet they've been to wsid once or twice.

inb4 p-plate hoon; I just think the guys an idiot for openly admitting to breaking the law on a public forum.

krzysiu Grand Master

krzysiu

Posted
Posted

'93 stock NA Supra will do 0-100 anywhere between 6.2 (independently tested) and 6.7secs (factory claimed) according to various sources. nyaanyaa.gif

Yeah cool. We did this for lols. My mates na supra vs another mates normal 3.5 litre 2002 magna ( not a vrx or a ralliart). Magna shat all over it.

KezR33 Veteran

KezR33

Posted
Posted

Yeah cool. We did this for lols. My mates na supra vs another mates normal 3.5 litre 2002 magna ( not a vrx or a ralliart). Magna shat all over it.

Too many variables. Were both auto, modded, did they both launch, were they good launches, good shifts, good/bad tyres, did the Supra single peg, blah blah.

I've witnessed this exact line up too and the Supra shat all over the Magna. They're both very similar in speed (slow) and it really comes down to mods/driver skill.

For the record, Ralliart Magna's are slower than the "normal" ones, and VRX is pretty much a luxury version with no performance upgrades.

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

Too many variables. Were both auto, modded, did they both launch, were they good launches, good shifts, good/bad tyres, did the Supra single peg, blah blah.

I've witnessed this exact line up too and the Supra shat all over the Magna. They're both very similar in speed (slow) and it really comes down to mods/driver skill.

For the record, Ralliart Magna's are slower than the "normal" ones, and VRX is pretty much a luxury version with no performance upgrades.

you might want to do some more research on them. vr-x had between 8 and 20kw more power than the executive (vr-x was 163kw, executive was 143kw in the TH and early TJ models, 155kw in the series 2 TJ models and later), and the ralli-art had 180kw. they are both a touch faster than the executive models. fastest "mildly moded" NA magna in QLD runs about 14.4 1/4 mile. there are faster NA and force fed ones, but they have more mods than simple exhaust, etc.

KezR33 Veteran

KezR33

Posted
Posted

you might want to do some more research on them. vr-x had between 8 and 20kw more power than the executive (vr-x was 163kw, executive was 143kw in the TH and early TJ models, 155kw in the series 2 TJ models and later), and the ralli-art had 180kw. they are both a touch faster than the executive models. fastest "mildly moded" NA magna in QLD runs about 14.4 1/4 mile. there are faster NA and force fed ones, but they have more mods than simple exhaust, etc.

You're right the VRX does have slightly more power, but the Ralliart is still slower, according to ultra reliable source that Wikipedia is. They claim the whilst it handled infinitely better the added weight of the AWD system slowed it down despite the additional power.

Mayuri Krab Grand Master

Mayuri Krab

Posted
Posted

Oh really, so p players can't have imports? Sucks to be you guys lol

We have one of the more easier P-plate systems, doesn't even have P-plate Car restriction, the only other state more easier than us is TAS I think...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sean'O
      3D printing fun

      By Sean'O · Posted

      Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) clogged cat

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Milkmun
      NC MX5

      By Milkmun · Posted

      Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • Milkmun
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Milkmun · Posted

      255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • Kinkstaah
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...