Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have recently picked up a V35. In the past i have just gone to dealers for servicing as my cars were new and still under warranty so it was just easier and most of my mods i installed myself as they were just the basic bolt ons. I know of the big names like xspeed and c-red etc. and have heard good and bad from alot of workshops over time so id like to know the latest on whos good in perth.

Im specifically looking for somewhere that i can go to for everything on a long term basis. I just think its better to try go back to the same place so they know you and your car etc. and try build up some trust. I want a workshop that is happy to do general servicing as well as future mods and tuning, preferably one with a dyno.

At the moment i want a very good check up done prior to my 3month dealer warranty thing expiring, so preferably a workshop who is very familiar with the car so they know exactly what to look for on this model. Im wanting to see if theres anything thats not so obvious that needs fixing so i can get it sorted before i start modifying.

I have been thinking C-Red but thats mostly because they offer all these things and are a name i know, but as to how good they are i have no clue so is there anywhere people recommend and have had good long term experiences with?

I dont mind paying more for quality work but at the same time i dont want to get ripped for a half assed job so any info would be appreciated.

Edited by Ben-88

For the V35 a good choice also to C-RED is www.autoworkshop.com.au as they do a lot of V35's and now a few V36's, the guys service to manufacture's recommendations and do a lot so they know what to look for.

For regular services you can get the while you wait service as they have a lounge area set up with TV and everything to wait in.

hey this is sorta semi on topic - there's a gull on flinders street..

next to the servo - is a garage.

is that garage - is always an entire fleet of drift S13s, Ma61 supras, Z10 soarers, Ke70's.. skylines and all sorts of JDM goodness...

anybody know what the story is there???

anyway: some other names that i'll throw out that i've heard great things about:

All star Garage

WTFAuto (for toyota only)

hyperdrive

Rocket Thumb garage

to be totally honest - i've heard and seen workshops go from being totally famous and having a bulletproof repotoir to being out of business and having their name dragged through the dirt over the ten or so years that i've been "in the scene"

won't name names there but those who will know will think of at least four big names that just f**ked up...

..but yeah - hyperdrive is the cockroach of the WA tuning and mechanic scene.

a comet, a plague, a famine, a swarm of locusts, financial crisis and the four horsemen of the bible can come down and swipe down EVERYONE ON THIS EARTH...

...but hyperdrive will continue to operate. they will still tune cars, they will always pick up the phone. they will always provide advice and great customer service.

they will survive anything that the world can throw at them, like a cockroach they just soldier on and do their thing.

(not to say that hyperdrive are ANYTHING like an acutal cockroach - just saying they're REALLY in this for the long haul!)

  • 4 weeks later...

As i get closer to needing to get the service done, im deciding between hyperdrive and autoworkshop. I have holidays comming up so im going to go check out a few places and see what the workshop looks like and have a chat with them to see who i want to go with, but at this point it looks like it will be hyperdrive because they seem to offer everything i want, have a decent rep and are the closest to where i live out of all the "good" workshops.

dont want to be a fizz in the cup but a service is a service

if some think something is stuffed on your car and you dont know much about how your combustion engine works then you sould not be think to much about it

a car is a car ever motor works on four stroke system

if you take your car to a mech in one place for a service you will only get a oil change and check over just like every workshop in perth

it doesnt take a good mechanic to drop oil and change a oil filter

use your money wisely oil's are oils

hahahah sorry dont want to wreck your dreams of kick ass workshops but they are as good as the bloke working on your pride and joy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...