Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Havnt posted for ages!

Anyway my clutch isnt working very well. The clutch has been in the car for 10,000km which is when i rebuilt the engine compleatly and it hasnt been well since then. It felt stiff but i expected it to as the rebuild was 9 months. We adjusted the slave cylinder (the adjuster behind the clutch pedal) and fixed the problem (shifting was easy as using one finger) thinking it just needed adjusting. But over time (10,000km) it lost its pressure and every 1000km's it would get harder and harder to shift, so the problem came back over a period of time.

A month ago i pretty much couldnt drive it. Shifting from 2nd-5th it would be almost imposible to shift up and down (very soild) and sometimes grind and 1st i would have to use the weight of my body to shove it in and when it did go in it would make the whole car thud. It also clunks and makes the car shudder if i take off only while rolling and releasing the pedal, stand still it takes off like a normal clutch, though if its on a hill i have to rev to about 4000RPM so i can take off. For a temporary fix i have spun the adjuster to max and the problem is back only a month down this time and im starting to not be able to select gears already.

i dont know what it is and im not losing and clutch fluid and there are no noises but the shifter gets very loose feels like the bushes are worn but when i tighten the slave cylinder the shifter wont jiggle anymore.

It was a Exedy heavy duty kit and the box is the GTS-4's version of the FS5R30A (all thats really different is the transfer case). Clutch was a OEM grade exedy before rebuild and although sliped didnt do this.................

Any help?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/362774-clutch-lost-its-throw/
Share on other sites

is the pedal very low too?

yes, it grabs about 3cm from the floor and not very much play. If its on a hill ill have to rev is to 4000RPM and take it out all the way to get going.

It's almost certainly the clutch master cylinder shagged and internally bypassing. New master cylinder, fluid and bleed (followed by a couple of weeks of tweaking the clutch pedal adjustment - bloody Nissan!) and it will be sweet.

sweet, i was thinking master or slave as the pressure is going down over a period of time and the clutch doesn't clunk and drag when it i tighten the master up. Also didn't mention my friction point is half way on the pedal when i tighten it so ill take a punt for the master cylinder first. Working for Nissan parts means its only $110 new :D

Hi I have had the same problem, And the 2 cylinders were near new, I was doing other work and the car sat for 4 weeks, I finish the work jumped in the car started and to my foot on the clutch and there was nothing there, a bit down the bottom. So i jumped under the car with a flat bar and push the Slave cylinder piston slowly back upto the cylinder as fare as i could and it bought the clutch peddle back up to about 3/4 peddle, I gave it a couple of slow pumps and it was good as new.. Im not 100% sure but over time the fluid siphons into the slave cyl creating a vacuum and holding the master cyl piston at the bottom of the cylinder , Hope this fix helps, Jamind

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×
×
  • Create New...