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Sorry i should of been more clearer. I had removed the pump as well without any problem so the only thing left on the white thing was the sensor bracket. I tried pulling it straight up but it would not move at all. I could not get it to budge one bit so i was wondering if there was a trick to removing it.

  • 3 weeks later...
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Haha i've never even changed oil on a car before. I got stuck on many points!

  1. Disconnecting the subwoofer and emptying the boot
  2. Taking the battery out so no stray sparks next to the fuel tank
  3. Get the tank panel off
  4. Struggle with those plugs for a while
  5. Struggle for AGES with the damn fuel lines (that was a battle between not getting them off or destroying them in the process)
  6. That big plastic ring thing was damn hard to get off. I thought I was going to cut through it with my screwdriver before it unsealed.
  7. Trying to figure out what the f**k was going on in the tank without be able to see involved a lot of pictures and videos on iphone lol
  8. Resorting to take off the rear strut brace to get better access to fuel tank (took shifter + mallet to break the seize on the strut screws)
  9. Dismounting and disconnecting the amp setup to get to the carpet wall stuff
  10. Taking out the carpet wall stuff to get to the side bolts on the strut brace
  11. Finally figuring out I need to just yank out the whole fuel pump assembly
  12. Literally spending a fee hours trying to get the fuel level sender off the metal bracket
  13. Just before having mental breakdown finds a post saying just take the whole bracket of and separate the two after
  14. Still takes a while
  15. Check my fuel pump make and model & clean the fuel sender which was filthy
  16. And then reverse the whole process just a little bit quicker

Starting it last night I finished at about 9am this morning :D sleep time...

13. Just before having mental breakdown finds a post saying just take the whole bracket of and separate the two after

14. Still takes a while

How did you get the metal bracket with the sensor attached off in the end? I tried getting that part off for ages and couldnt. I tried lifting it up and everthing but it wouldnt budge at all.

so i'm assuming you pulled the whole ufel pump assembly out already? if not do that, just lift up with as much for as necessary there are no clip on the metal bracket.

Then the remaining metal bracket with the fuel level sender on the right was basically impossible to remove while still mounted, that whole bracket lifts off where the fuel pump came up, then once it is detached you get access to the back of the fuel sender and separate the sender and metal bracket with a screwdriver or something.

The back of the slider attaches to the metal bracket which has a clip. The clip may come off easily or if may be impossible to get off depending on the degree that the metal is bent. Mine was bent far enough that I could not get it off without removing the whole metal brack and taking it off from the rear of the metal bracket, wedging it open with a screwdriver.

The metal bends very easily so some peoples will will off by itself, some will come of easy and some will be impossible to remove but just sliding. Just depend how far up the metal catch is bent. If it doesn't come off easily, just pull the whole metal bracket up and off the fuel tank wall and separate the sender from the back of the metal bracket. I tried to flatten the catch a bit to make it easier to get off next time but I found it was either a case of impossible to get it off or it falls off easily.

Did this last week and had mad amounts of trouble.

I took out the fuel sender for a good clean and when i went to put it back in, the fuel gauge clip was missing!

Must of fallen back into the tank on the left side of the tank, which is unassailable.

Anyone have any ideas? - Is it dangerous to drive with a clip floating around my fuel tank?

Thanks :D

  • 10 months later...

i just removed and opened up my sender and when i checked the ohms it was jumping all over the place so i cleaned both sides of it really good and it was better but i wasnt getting a reading from 8 to 90 ohm range, it was still a gradual increase but a little higher ohms, so i cleaned it really good again and now its in the right range now, so anyone cleaning there sender make sure you keep cleaning it until you get a reading range from 8 to 90ohms, i also cleaned the float spring needles by running a very fine grade sandpaper through it the middle of it a few times, you will know what im talking about when you open it all up. Also i did notice that there is a small jump from about 35 to 52 when you are testing it and this is normal, if you look on the slide you will notice there is a section change at that point.

  • 1 year later...

Right. Everything was fine when I fired the car up on Saturday last week, but this morning, I noticed the guage is reading that there is no fuel at all. Will give it a go over the long weekend, but maybe i am missing something here: I can't see any pics in the first post where the steps are listed?

  • 2 years later...

Finally decided to do this clean today & f**k me it's a pain in the arse!!!. Managed to drop the bracket in the fuel tank while trying to put it back in - that was a fun exercise with up to my armpit in the fuel tank with a pair of tongs trying to get the f**ker out.

did you clean it and the fingers and check with a multimeter to make sure it was reading correct ohms, i remember doing it and it took a few cleans to get it right, even tho it looked clean after the first clean it just didnt read right

Yea, I gave it a 3-4 wipe downs allowing it to dry in sun between the cleans. Checked with the meter and it came up good. The gauge wasn't reading the wrong level all the time, once a month maybe once every 2 months I'd fill up and watch the needle drop past empty then hit a bump on the road and watch it climb back up to full

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