Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Long story short i want to remove my hicas as its playing up.. Now i have been told a few conflicating storys on what to do/not do by a few workshops one said i MUST use a 33gtr power steering pump or remove half of the veins on the impeller on the 32 power steering pump otherwise it will over pressurerise the steering rack and cause the steering rack to leak?? Others have said no drama's just pull it out and put a lock bar in it makes no difference and another said that you have to re-wire the hicas to stop the hicas light coming on and not to use a lock bar but get the standard rack welded up so you dont have to remove the lines etc..

Could someone that has removed there hicas please shed some light on this and point me in the right direction? Any help is much appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363086-r32-gtr-hicas/
Share on other sites

Here is good guide: http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=185697

Put in a lockbar, then you bypass the front Hicas solenoid by looping (through the power steering cooler) the rear stage of the pump.

You DON't need to remove the vanes from the pump's rear section

Getting rid of all the hicas gear saves ~20kgs. The light on the dash is fixed by cutting a wire on the hicas ecu.

My r32 has been like this for over 2yrs with no problems.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/363086-r32-gtr-hicas/#findComment-5794427
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I replaced the whole clutch line with the chase bays braided hose, I think it removes that loop, is it the short hose that comes immediately off the slave or is there a drawing in the manual to find what you’re referring to? It was just re-bled when I upgraded to the nismo slave, old slave worked fine but I thought that might help, didn’t change a thing. It’s like the first half of the pedal is pushing air and then when it finally actuates the master the friction zone is tiny. Makes it practically impossible to launch the car
    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
×
×
  • Create New...