Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1. Surface prep of the two mated surfaces can not exceed 3 thou, or crush will not seal the layers of the multi-shim gasket.

2. Hylomar is your friend.

My feeling is that virtually every brand out there is probably pretty good, and that the majority of failures that occur with builds (that are not factory) are all either caused by bad machining or bad assembly technique. The best product in existance is doomed to fail if these two arent correct.

agree with that for sure. best gasket in the world will not seal a head or block surface that is not true and cannot defend against improper installation either. MLS gaskets are great at sealing in high cylinder pressures but hopeless at dealing with any kind of imperfections in the head. so if the surface is not prepped properly the best MLS gasket in the world is not going to seal nicely. that's no reason to throw out your MLS gaskets and go back to a standard composite type gasket. it's a reason to ensure your block and head surfaces are prepped right.

Sorry for the late reply, block was decked and head shaved, the head is off, the studs are arp. the only issue seems to be the gasket failing and letting water into the bore..

Man, how many times have I heard someone replacing a head gasket only for another failure!! Maybe the gasket was faulty but as so many above already stated, you really need to be sure of the cause if it's possble to track.

good luck

Edited by grygtr

I always use Hylomar regardless of gasket construction. Even re used cometic gaskets up to three times without issue on high boost apps.

OP, still very little info, hence I'm predicting an assembly fault.

Edited by Marlin

I notice the Nitto and the latest Cometic gasket have an in built O ring that gos with the larger bore 88mm. I think this compensates. I wonder if the O ring sealing really helps with head lifting high boost, or is a gimmick. I'd prefer Tomei at this stage.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As an ex-skyline owner Going off how these things are now "modern classics", I would keep the twins and just "refresh" bits that are required for reliable power and have a car you can take out for a cruise whenever you get the itch As a idiot who cannot leave things alone Going deep into the "rabbit hole" is a easy thing to do, as previously mentioned, once you start it becomes a slippery slope, wirh lots of supporting mods, and possibly rebuilds, and unless you have a bottomless pit of funds, the car can spend most of its life sitting in the garage,  broken, waiting for parts, or building more funds For a classic like a R32 GTR Basically, a reliable OEM+ refresh, that isn't a broken garage queen, is alot better than a car that you build, then break, then fix, then break again And it isn't just the engine you need to worry about, these beasties are getting on in age, and all parts are getting, and have got, expensive, the days of picking up cheap replacement engines and other driveline parts are well and truly over The funds not spent on going a single with quality parts, and with all the other other bits required to make it happen, could be spent on refreshing alot of other parts A wise man once said "If you cannot afford 2 GTR's, you cannot afford 1", I also believe he said this about 20 years ago when you could pick up a clean R32 GTR up for around $20k My advice for a R32 GTR (the one and only true Godzilla in my mind) is to think holistically about the whole car, the body, the power train, the suspension, the brakes, and the driveline SAU is a wealth of knowledge with decades of Skyline experience,  from stock, to OEM+, to modified to varying degrees, to full on or weekend or dedicated racecars, as well as full on money pits that rarely leave their garage Treat the old girl nice and give her what she deserves, you are a lucky man to own such a classic car  
    • For that price you could buy the hypergear turbo (big fan as I run one) and the Haltech ECU..
    • +1 for the Elite 2500. Get some new knock sensors while you are at it (pretty cheap), look up the TAARKS Nissan knock sensor kit. You may also want to get new coils (R35gtr) while your at it (assuming your on stock ones), as they are a liability. Mine started right up and idled fine on the base map. Also go MAP over MAF, as said above, Haltech make this super simple right out the box. Another fanboy of DBW here, Outsider Garage from your neck of the woods make some nice conversion gear for the R33 (that’s where I got some of my gear from).
    • Nvm ignore this I read it wrong
×
×
  • Create New...