Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeh my alarm is F*** loud but only activates on entry to the car,

in the process of finding a new place with a garage so hopefully my chain will hold them off untill i get a garage... its working so far!

kinda sad looking at my baby with a big chain and padlock wrapped around her every night though :(

hopefully not for much longer

Well they didn't jack it up so what in thinkin is puttin hex screws in, getting two perfect lengths of chain and padlocking then around the whole car just near the wheels and then putting a cover over it?

Yeh it's gunna be hell tedious getting in to my car every morning and lockin up with protecting the paintwork from the chain but hopefully they won't be able to get the skirts.. At least until I find a new place with a proper garage

Hex keys aren't exactly unknown though. Besides, hand me a flat head screwdriver that is the right size, and perhaps some sort of knockometer if its a tight fit, and I'll undo any torx or hex head screw. The bolts won't look pretty when I'm done, but they will be removed fairly easy and without damage to the panel so I doubt that will put off any thief with half a brain.

You could use one way screws, AKA bastard screws. They only go in one way and the driver will just cam out without applying any loosening force if you try to undo them. Its a huge f*** around to get them out though (as I have discovered at work a few times), so they really are a permanant solution

You could use one way screws, AKA bastard screws. They only go in one way and the driver will just cam out without applying any loosening force if you try to undo them. Its a huge f*** around to get them out though (as I have discovered at work a few times), so they really are a permanant solution

Yeh baught a few packs of one ways but just havnt had the time off work yet to actually do Anything about it,

So far so good with the chain on the plus side

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I recently did this to my R33 with the full set from Car Mats Direct, they can't do the vinyl anymore that's advertised on the website due to a supplier issue so I ended up with the Black Loop Pile which looks great. I went all out with rubber sound deadening sheets from Repco and also added the sound deadening foam layer option with the carpet. Makes a world of difference and got rid of all the weird smells in the 29 year old interior. It was a bit of work but I'd 100% recommend it, Car Mats Direct had awesome customer service and quick postage. Replaced my seats with some sporty ones from Autotechnia while I was at it, feels like a new car.
    • Got the motor out and torn down. I'll be dropping off the block Monday. Luckily the scoring on Cyl6 is much less pronounced then the pictures made it out to seem. It can barely be felt. If you pass your finger over it 10x you'll barely notice it. Hopefully by some chance it will only require a honing. I'm not in the mood to buy one size larger pistons or another block. Oddly enough my 6th cylinder with the scoring has extremely clean intake valves compared to my other 5 cylinders. I'm worried the scoring was caused by too much fuel or Water/Methanol washing the cylinder. I'll review some old logs to confirm.  This was also the first time I pull an engine with the transmission still attached. It went much better then expected. I was worried my CD009 wouldn't make it easy due to its sheer size but it was much easier this way. 
    • From the pictures I have when doing the job the flywheel is the same diameter, I don't think they're playing weird tricks like putting weights at the outer diameter to increase flywheel inertia or anything like that. The OEM flywheel is definitely heavier, but it's not a huge difference. Quoted weight savings of the clutch is 2 kg so I can't imagine the flywheel being lighter than ~7 kg. Kind of regret not weighing it before the clutch went into the car but as far as driveability goes I have no complaints.
    • HKS trigger kit should be very easy to integrate with a Link. It's a 36-2 crank trigger. Hard part is finding the motivation to take off the timing belt and everything on the front of the engine to install it. You also need to cut out a hole in the oil pump housing so the sensor can read the trigger wheel. Changing out the cam sensor for a 24 tooth setup is probably good enough but as others have mentioned depending on what underlying assumptions are changed it becomes more of a problem. Reading the crank state off of the cam is an abstraction that works in the general case, but if you have an edge case it makes less and less sense. There is a GTX2860 gen 2 that can take a compact 5 bolt housing so it's direct bolt on but I'm not 100% sure of what's involved. Peak compressor efficiency drops off a bit on these turbos vs -5s, 77% vs 73% but you get way, way wider region of operation. The -5s have a really strange surge line in their compressor map that is all over the place. If you think the hot side on the -5s aren't open enough you can try the Tomei T550B turbos which a local tuner seems to be happy with:
    • i need a complete tail light for my R33 GTR if you have please let me know.
×
×
  • Create New...